Build Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build

[ForealBoreal]

Yeah, worked in the turbo industry for years, I'm trying to keep the turbo for this swap easy to attain and cheap. The Garrett T2560 I got from a Isuzu 4HE1 looked to be prefect but it turned out there are different turbine housing sizes and the one I got was a big .80 A/R

Yes everything I have seen points to the 4BD1T not having any issue with boost pressure. I believe 30psi is nothing for one, a guy a few years ago lifted the head on one when he pegged a 60psi gauge stock unopened engine. I'm not interested in anything like that.

My motto with this swap is Reliable/Efficient/Serviceability I do not want to sacrifice any of those in search of a number or power target.

30 psi would be sweet with the correct fuel to suit. That thing would PULL! I too am about reliability.

If you know of a good turbo to suit the engine without breaking the bank I am all for it. I recently picked up a 1hd-ft's CT26 for what I think is an excellent price. Its for my 75, I going to try and get the bits to upgrade the compressor to a 7mgte set up mainly because I can't afford another gturbo any time soon and this will be a fraction of the cost. Should be fun.

 

[Dougal]

30 psi would be sweet with the correct fuel to suit. That thing would PULL! I too am about reliability.

If you know of a good turbo to suit the engine without breaking the bank I am all for it. I recently picked up a 1hd-ft's CT26 for what I think is an excellent price. Its for my 75, I going to try and get the bits to upgrade the compressor to a 7mgte set up mainly because I can't afford another gturbo any time soon and this will be a fraction of the cost. Should be fun.

Here is a quick round-up.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?26542-4BD1T-Turbo-Sizing-and-Performance-Prediction.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

30 psi would be sweet with the correct fuel to suit. That thing would PULL! I too am about reliability.

If you know of a good turbo to suit the engine without breaking the bank I am all for it. I recently picked up a 1hd-ft's CT26 for what I think is an excellent price. Its for my 75, I going to try and get the bits to upgrade the compressor to a 7mgte set up mainly because I can't afford another gturbo any time soon and this will be a fraction of the cost. Should be fun.

Yeah it should be good, I am going to play around with a few things. I hope to make the down pipe and all oil lines easy to disconnect and fit different turbos. I'm going to try this 4HE1 T2560 first with the turbine housing from the wategated 4BD2T turbo. I found a manufacturer in China willing to sell me one cheap for "testing" once I get it here I will have it profiled for the 4HE1 turbine. Nice thing with that is from there it will bolt right onto the 4BD manifold and be an ideal .68 A/R.

I'm just finalizing my negotiations with China now on the turbine housing.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

OK so to get this back up to date I have got the engine completely torn down now. Sleeves are out and new ones are ready to go in. I also got the crank out (Thought I was going to blow a hernia lifting it out!) All the bearings in the motor are STD size so ordering those today.

Everything looks good in the block so it was time to try and deal with that internal rust that was all over the cooling passages and anywhere the cooling system ran.

I went and got a $20 109L tote and 40L of Pure White Vinegar to remove the rust. I set the block in the tank upside down and filled it slowly till it had filled the coolant passageways. I have had the water pump in vinager as a test for 4 days and its looking really good now. I plan to take it out tomorrow and see how its done. The block I plan to keep in there till Saturday so it will have had a total of 7 days in there. From there the block is getting taken to a Machine shop for hot tanking to get rid of any residual vinager and lose rust as well as stripping the paint.

My "Magic rust removal tank" (do not use this method on Aluminium or any other material other than cast and steel) Sorry did not get a pic of it in the tank, I'll get one when I take it out.

So with that done I started cleaning up other parts, the pistons are getting removed from the rods so I can have them balanced. The Rod main bolts are getting removed and replaced with new ones. The people who rebuilt this motor last did a tearable job and damaged some of the heads of the rod bolts.

After most of that was done or in solvent tanks for cleaning I looked at the injectors. Longbow had warned me about the faces that seem to be prone to damage on the 4BD1T. I took apart #1 inj. and it looked mint.

#1

#2 whoops not so good, the face is all hammers and fractured

#3 the same as #2

#4 again the same hammerd

So I then turned to Longbow again and he gave me the contact info for a company in LA that can rebuild the faces. I gave them a call this morning and its going to be $20 per face (no bad at all). New nozzles will be about $20 from a place in TX then all that is needed is to assemble and set the crack pressure.

That's all for now, going to get the injectors out this week and order the nozzles. The bearings should be here in time to pick up the block from the machine shop next week as well. Should start re assembling it mid month.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So I'm going to recommend against using vinegar. Any part of my block that was no submerged is now rusted so we pulled it out before any more damage was done. I went over the whole block and cleaned off all the rust, it was just very light surface that rubbed off. I can only assume it was off gassing from the vinegar that caused it. Its getting dropped off at the machine shop tomorrow for hot tanking.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ordered up a bunch of parts from Isuzu today, got my crank timing gear, timing idler gear, rod bolts (mine where in bad shape due to poor rebuild), thermostat and gasket as well as a few frost plugs. Total was just over $300 but I know it will be done right this time. Most rebuilds would not need this added expense but mine due to damage needed it.

Also ordered Clevite 77 bearings for main,rods,cam and thrust.

Total for all parts for this rebuild is just over $800, would have been just over $500 with out the Isuzu parts. In the end $800 is not bad for a fully rebuilt engine that should last 500k miles.

Block is getting dropped off this afternoon at machine shop for hot tanking.

 

[Duiser Offroad]

Looks good, great progress!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I scored a Isuzu intercooler NOS off Ebay. This the core I was planing to run on my set-up, local wreckers wanted $200 for a used one. This will fit very well around the radiator I plan to use and provide good charge cooling. New this part is $1300 from the dealer.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261169602072...witem=&vxp=mtr



Well looks like they removed the posting lol so here are a few pictures. (I paid $109 for it ) I think they posted that listing with an incorrect price and missed a zero, prob noticed after I got it since they showed as having 10 available.

 

[BCR4619]

Go buy a lotto Max for tonight, we shall split the difference when u win

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Unit shipped, was a bit worried when the ebay auction disappeared after I got it.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Got my Volvo TD04HL-13T turbo on Friday, yesterday I was able to test fit it to the 4BD manifold. I had to remove the two studs on the mounting flange of the Volvo turbo and drill them all out to fit the size of the 4BD studs. After that I test fit it.

Have about 3/4" clearance here.

One issue with the funky Volvo T3 flange is its got a circular ring for sealing. I'm not 100% sure how I am going to overcome this, I'll probably machine a ring that goes in there turbine to seal to the standard 4BD T3.

I also did not need to clock the turbo at all, I do have it forward facing though.

Once the engine is all rebuilt and injectors fixed I will get the 19T upgrade kit for this turbo and rebuild it.

I also plan to weld a 2.5" v ban on the turbine for the down pipe.

 

[gerg]

Hey, where are you getting your houuing machined for the 19t compressor? I was going to upgrade my te04h as well and need to get mine done. Also, if you have no need for it, ill buy that 13t compressor and housing from you.

How is the clearance for your booster and the exhaust dump? Looks like it will be close. Going to do up a heat sheild and wrap and stuff? I know the stock turbo dumps to the front. I always thought this was weird, but it might really help with all the heat that is shed. Still though, if you insulate it really well, it can hold back alot of heat.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Hey, where are you getting your houuing machined for the 19t compressor? I was going to upgrade my te04h as well and need to get mine done. Also, if you have no need for it, ill buy that 13t compressor and housing from you.

How is the clearance for your booster and the exhaust dump? Looks like it will be close. Going to do up a heat sheild and wrap and stuff? I know the stock turbo dumps to the front. I always thought this was weird, but it might really help with all the heat that is shed. Still though, if you insulate it really well, it can hold back alot of heat.

I have a few friends that work at a turbo production company that are going to machine the backing plate for the larger 19T wheel as well as balance the new wheel and old turbine together. I can assemble it all my self. You are more than welcome to the old compressor and housing once I get it done.

The clearance right now is an unknown, I cant test any of that till I get in the engine bay and that's is about 7 months away. I do know that flipping the turbo so its facing forward will give me a lot more room. With the turbo set as Isuzu does it (facing back) there is no way the larger compressor cover will fit with the booster. With it that why there is also the issue of getting the air filter to turbo pipe to fit. I have a feeling having this turbo face forward will be the best way to go. I plan to wrap the down pipe double thick and see how that does, I may also make a heat shield. All of this is speculation till I get the engine in the truck and turbo fitted to see what kind of spacing I have.

 

[gerg]

Ahh I didnt think about the compressor hitting anything.

I was toying with an idea after talking with my buddy who works for a helecopter company and has a plasma spray machine that they use to spray turbine blades. Anyway, they lay on thick coatings of ceramic. Like bascically as thick as they want without delaminating. So I cant aford to pay for it as it cost thousands to do seemingly small pieces. So I was pretty choked at that. Then I got to thinking about normal ceramics for pottery and the liquid slurry they use. I phoned around to a few small pottery places and inquired about what types of ceramics posess the poorest thermal conductivity and asked if they would fire a manifold if I coated and wraped it myself. Most said it was weird, but no problem. I still havent found what specific ceramic would be a good candidate, but I think it could be a cheap way to add a signifigant thickness of ceramic for pretty cheap and just do an outer wrap of header tape to protect it. Might work out well for really tight spots that require alot of insulation.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

On the Waste gate front I am going to try out one of the Turbosmart IWG's I plan to get the one for the Dodge it's set up for 26psi using 3 springs to achieve that pressure. To begin with I plan to use two of the springs to net me 15psi for engine break in and other systems testing. Once the engine is broken in and all the bugs are worked out I will then step up to a 21psi spring configuration and lastly if I need it the 26psi.

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/iwg-dodge-ram-diesel

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Ahh I didnt think about the compressor hitting anything.

I was toying with an idea after talking with my buddy who works for a helecopter company and has a plasma spray machine that they use to spray turbine blades. Anyway, they lay on thick coatings of ceramic. Like bascically as thick as they want without delaminating. So I cant aford to pay for it as it cost thousands to do seemingly small pieces. So I was pretty choked at that. Then I got to thinking about normal ceramics for pottery and the liquid slurry they use. I phoned around to a few small pottery places and inquired about what types of ceramics posess the poorest thermal conductivity and asked if they would fire a manifold if I coated and wraped it myself. Most said it was weird, but no problem. I still havent found what specific ceramic would be a good candidate, but I think it could be a cheap way to add a signifigant thickness of ceramic for pretty cheap and just do an outer wrap of header tape to protect it. Might work out well for really tight spots that require alot of insulation.

That sounds interesting one worry I would have though is there thermal expansion rates. I know Ceramics to do not change much at all when heated but metal (cast and pipe) grow a lot when heated. Would be worried the ceramics would just crack and start falling off. Look forward to seeing how you make out on that.

 

[gerg]

Yeah I know it will crack. It would be essentialy bound inside of a regualr fiberglass header wrap to hold it in place. I got the idea also from a produce that uses small individial pieces of ceramic connected side by side for a header wrap, but it is quite expensive. It sort of resembles those little tiles all joined together with a mesh for backpslash areas and stuff. You would get the bennifit of really thick ceramic that can be conformed to irregualr surfaces and is a low tech application.

Here is a good read on engine break in.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Breaking in a Diesel Engine

 

[Dougal]

It depends on the goal, being to keep heat in or just keep heat away from other surfaces.
Sheet-metal shields and air-gaps do the best job of keeping heat away from everything else.

 

[gerg]

I guess the goal would be two fold. Heat in and sheild other stuff. For me mostly heat in I guess. I cant find the link to that ceramic puck wrap stuff dang it all. It was really neat. Out of jolly old England. Looking at thermal transfer and nothing can match air except other less dense mediums. I did a wrap on one of my headers with multiple thin wraps of steel mesh (to create and air break) separated by reflective tape ( to prevent convection and a little radiation) with header wrap on the outside. Worked extremely well, but was bulky and damaged easily. It really worked well where my down pipe was against my firewall and I didnt have room for a good heat sheild. After pulling hills I could almost touch it. Well almost cus I never did cus that would be insane, but I could hold my hand about 1/2 and inch away indefinately and could tollerate the heat as it didnt radiate much at all. Try that with your cast manifold when its 1200F and see how long you can hold it there for!

It sucked cus where some of the wrap was damaged it exposed the metal and the radiated heat melted my RPM sensor wire for my tach.

If you do compounds in the future, engine bay temps can be troublesome as there is so much added surface area. Everything needs to be wraped really well. The top mount intercooler helped with this greatly I must say.


That looks like an extremely veristile IWG. Its build like an EWG. Impressive. I might just have to get one for my VNT set up.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Thanks for the link on engine break in, I have broken in all my engines that way with good success. I hope this one is the same, I will run it a Bit on the engine stand once its back together but not idle for long periods just enough to make sure its running and sounding normal. I also plan to test my trans on the engine stand as well once I have the adapter made. Again not much idle or run time at all. Maybe 5 min run time total with a rad connected.

The tile heat wrap sounds cool but a bit much for my goals. I mainly want to wrap the down from turbo to wheel well to keep the heat away from from break booster and break lines. Im going to make a clamp on metal air gap style shielded where the break lines will be close. I have used that kind of heat management in the past with good success.