IMPORTANT: Check your HVAC recirculate door and answer Poll (3 Viewers)

Turn ignition ON and press Recirculate button. Is your door:


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The flap is operated by a shaft on the USDM passenger side of the opening. With flap open (once again, do not open by hand. Use the recirculation button on dash) remove the air filter element. Once removed, you'll be able to see where the shaft slots into the flap assembly.

I'll hazard that it is cracked but still held together by the rubber gasket around the edge of the flap.

I have a no-glue permanent fix that only requires the glovebox to be removed. I've been testing this for the past year and it can be installed in less than an hour if you work quickly. I've confirmed this fits the 2013-2015 models. I'm looking for someone with the 2008 to 2011 models to try the fix out to verify fitment for free, just cover shipping. PM me for details.

I'll post addition details in a separate thread once fitment is confirmed.
It took me maybe an hour the first time. Having done it once I think I could do it in about 15-20 minutes now. The most challenging part was getting the dash apart, just because I didn’t know which bolts and screws to remove at first. Also dropping a bolt into the dash didn’t help, and then realizing I’d reassembled everything but forgot a wiring connector also slowed me down
 
Recently had my 09 serviced (unrelated to this but they did check the cabin air filter). I noticed something was wrong when my HVAC temp setting wasn't "saving" and it took about 30 seconds for it to come on after starting the car (sometimes it just didn't come on automatically and I had to turn it on).

Checked the filter and sure enough the flap was flopped down and loose, and the dash switch wouldn't move the flap. Nothing looked broken to me on the hinges. In the course of fiddling with it, it just sort of started working again. Including remembering the HVAC setting and starting immediately with the car.

However, now:
  1. The flap doesn't close all the way.
  2. If I start the car in the fresh air mode, it goes to a sort of middle position. Is this the intended functionality?

Here's a video: New video by Eli Z - https://photos.app.goo.gl/cKydnyCXrM7SjYwL9

Order of events:
  1. Flap is (mostly) closed, set to fresh air mode.
  2. Start the car, flap goes back halfway by itself.
  3. Press the recirc button, flap goes all the way back.
  4. Press the fresh air button, flap goes most of the way forward.

Sorry, all this is quite new to me. My 62 and 80 didn't have slick climate control or a fancy new fangled "cabin air filter".
Nope, that’s not the way it should work. It’s supposed to be either all the way closed or all the way open and seated properly in either position. They broke the mechanism when they checked the filter by forcing the flap open by hand instead of using the Recirc button.
 
Do you have any info you can share on your solution for the 2013-2015 models?
I'll be getting a separate thread started soon with how-to, etc.
 
Fixed, under warranty, at Grand Rapids Toyota over a month ago. No rattles so far, they did a good job. They rented me a new Camry for $50/day.

When I dropped it off, I mentioned it might take longer than the book 8-hours, I might need their Camry a bit longer if so. It took their tech two complete days, they called and apologized a few times, said their tech was being very meticulous. I thanked them for letting him do it right.
 
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Pardon the interruption, but I've been noticing that my LC (with newly-replaced unit, per discussion earlier in this thread) is defaulting to "recirc" mode, rather than fresh air, on a repeated basis. Is this a bug, or a feature? AC is on (set to 71/71 in the front), external temps are typically 80+, and I've set the button to fresh air multiple times now...but I keep finding it reverted back to recirc. Is the system trying to maintain the cabin temp by recirculating the (presumably) cooler interior air, or has my new air unit already broken itself?
 
Pardon the interruption, but I've been noticing that my LC (with newly-replaced unit, per discussion earlier in this thread) is defaulting to "recirc" mode, rather than fresh air, on a repeated basis. Is this a bug, or a feature? AC is on (set to 71/71 in the front), external temps are typically 80+, and I've set the button to fresh air multiple times now...but I keep finding it reverted back to recirc. Is the system trying to maintain the cabin temp by recirculating the (presumably) cooler interior air, or has my new air unit already broken itself?
Sounds normal to me.
 
FYI

HVAC Door Repair How To​



Thanks for the post!

That's actually me. Life has been hectic, so didn't get a chance to post up here yet.

EDIT: Don't judge my terrible video editing and ad-lib skills.
 
Thanks for the post!

That's actually me. Life has been hectic, so didn't get a chance to post up here yet.

EDIT: Don't judge my terrible video editing and ad-lib skills.
Have you confirmed the fit on 08-11 Land Cruisers? Interested 08 owner here.
 
I have a 2013 and can confirm even after 2 years this works like a muthaf*ckin’ champ
 
Have you confirmed the fit on 08-11 Land Cruisers? Interested 08 owner here.
@aptos: Have you confirmed that you actually have a broken door on your '08?

The reason I ask is:
@Oakleyguy: I found your YT video (and eventually your posts here on mud) while trying to solve a recirc door problem on my 2009 LC. BTW, your video was the best I've seen on gaining access to the area with the minimum number of steps & time! In my case, the problem turned out to be stripped plastic gears inside the actuator assembly; replaced with one from eBay and enjoying my A/C once again!

I think I know the reason you haven't had someone with an '08-11 LC take you up on your offer for a free copy of your broken door fix: I'm pretty sure the common failure that you '13-15 guys are seeing is VERY rare for the earlier 200-series models. I read through hundreds of posts on this thread and Cabin Filter Change and the Recirculation Flap Issues FIXED while diagnosing my issue and looked carefully to see which models were reporting broken doors vs just concern about the break or other possible problems (like mine). There appeared to be a VERY strong correlation between '13-15 models and the broken door problem. I'm guessing Toyota changed something in that area around '12-13 that is causing the doors to fail in that manner.

BTW, if someone has the same problem I did (stripped gears inside the actuator motor assembly), I learned a cute trick during the course of my repair: you can open the assembly and rotate the large gear (assuming yours is stripped on that gear) around 120-180 degrees to get the stripped area away from where it will be used and reassemble. This fix works for 2 reasons: the actuator only has to rotate the arm through approx 100 degrees to open & close the door and secondly, disconnecting & reconnecting the battery causes the actuator to relocate it's "home" position (thanks to @KenB for his post ... Servomotor initialization...).

Good luck to everyone dealing with these recirc door issues.
 
@aptos: Have you confirmed that you actually have a broken door on your '08?
Mine is disconnected where everyone else has had the break. I haven’t had the time open things up and get a better look at what is actually broken. Thanks for the info about the gear. I will check this as well
 
Mine is disconnected where everyone else has had the break. I haven’t had the time open things up and get a better look at what is actually broken. Thanks for the info about the gear. I will check this as well
@aptos, if my theory is correct about '08-11's, you will discover an intact door and a disconnected arm (which you can easily reconnect using Nate's youtube video; in addition I had to remove the ECM and a black plastic holder just to the right of the actuator to gain access).

The symptom for the stripped gears inside the actuator is a clicking sound from that area when the door tries to open or close.
 

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