Ideal drivetrain

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I have a quote for a complete kit to mate a 1UZ-FE to a H55 for ~$2k shipped, included the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, pilot and throwout bearing, and a Spitronics ECU with a basic program that would make the engine run (needs final dino-program). This was for the non-vvti 1UZ, but could be purchased for any of the *UZ (4.0/4.3/4.6/4.7) series engines and for vvti for a bit more. There is a 40 thread that a guy in SA did this, I pinged him and he put me in touch with the mechanic who did the conversion.






Tucker

Holy Sheep $h!t. $2k in adaptors needed to bolt a $2k transmixer on. Pretty soon that will add up to real money!
 
Pablo,

Don't forget the $2500 for a good motor, drive shafts, misc. parts. It goes past real money and heads to stupid money. Easy over ten grand, doing it yourself. At least, mine did.
 
Everything Gumby says above.

I've got an 6.0L LQ4 with NV4500 in my 55.

The power, parts, etc is amazing for gen III and IV engines.

I HATE autos but it would have made the swap SOOO much easier... tune, extra parts needed, etc. I'm still considering swapping out the NV4500 for the stock 4l80e that came with the engine.

I daily drive my pig and it is a blast. It does 70mph all day with no problems at about 2500rpm and it can do 90mph+o_O I just did a 400 mile round trip last weekend with no problems. The downside for me right now is I'm getting right at 12mpg:doh: But that is with an exhaust leak and a poor tune.


My SWB gets about 13.5 according to the torque app. It might get better if I kept my foot out of it, but that really isn't going to happen. I also only have a th400 so it's spinning pretty good at 65 with 4.10s.
 
Low mile 1fz.....but I am biased. Take an 80 and subtract entire body.....add bacon bits. 35s and stock 80 gearing minus 500lbs of 80 bulk should get 19hwy and 16city fairly easily.

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I'd bet a 1FZ really wakes up with a 5-speed, I know the 3FE went from a sluggish beast to a speedster in my 40 with a 4-speed ;)

Tucker

If not, this will get it going....

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I can't complain as much as others about the 1FZ.... Mebbe I'm getting older in that department too, but, with 37s/5.29s, I'd line up and run 'me with the wife's GX460 and she didn't beat me by too much that I was embarrassed.

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The nuts and bolts of it for me was looking around at all the 1fz's rolling around with 300k+ miles on them. I saw the cylinders of a 350k mainly hwy miler that had its head pulled off to examine bore/cylinders and there were still crosshatchings on the cylinder walls!

You just can't compare the durability of an inline 6 to any gm v8 engine Imho. While the gm may offer lots of hp and torque- at 150k miles the vortecs are getting long in the tooth due to the inherent wear characteristics of a v block vs an inline block.

At the end of the day you would need to buy a zero mile new $$$vortec to have the same lifespan of a 100k mile used $500 1fz that people are essentially throwing away for diesel swaps etc. if you plan to take the time to swap either one ...in my mind it's a no brainer to do it once and either pony up the $$4-5k for a new vortec..........or the $500-1000 for a low mile 1fz.

No vortec will outlast a 1 fz and it will take 2-3 gm tranny rebuilds/fuel pumps/injectors/etc to keep up with a Toyoda bus tranny and accessories.

If you have AAA.......go vortec. If you want to go places where AAA doesn't go.......and come back.....go 1fz.
 
Preachin' to the choir!!

Hahahaha.

I'll go one further....

I will never again attempt to rebuild a vintage F, unless the platform dictates accuracy, not self imposed idealism.

Refresh vintage?

Possibly, but anything more than that is swapping to 1FZ-FE or 2UZ-FE.
 
I'm thinking that with my 40 now.........if only I could borrow your h151 and ecu for about 10 years.? ;)

Can surely work out a payment plan....

It wasn't as bad as one might think, however rare or isolated the particulars surround the acquisition may be. Have a mate in Oz in the shipping business, who also utilized the phone, preferred by many a Cruiser parts company in Australia, which softened the blow.

Personally, think the only way 1FZs are ever going to be viable swap options for the masses are when the H55 possibility is fully explored and developed.

It has been done and can be replicated using H151F front BH half, H55 rear half, H151F shaft and bearing in the H55 case, and an H151 pressure plate and clutch. Run the OE ECU without the 22P connected.

Have talked to a few shops that have completed and all claim successful, most on race trucks.

Have talked to many in Oz about the fabled lore of an OE mating of 1FZ and H55, and they're reported to have existed, but rumored to have been commercial mining accounts and those vehicles have since "returned to our mother" in the form of FeO2.
 
It wasn't as bad as one might think, however rare or isolated the particulars surround the acquisition may be. Have a mate in Oz in the shipping business, who also utilized the phone, preferred by many a Cruiser parts company in Australia, which softened the blow.

Hmm, wondering if it would be cheaper to get a used H55F from Oz vs. cost of buying one new... Can you ask him for an estimate next time you are shipping?
 
Hmm, wondering if it would be cheaper to get a used H55F from Oz vs. cost of buying one new... Can you ask him for an estimate next time you are shipping?

Think most the later, used H55s are going to be H, L, or P designated, so the input shaft won't work with the F engine.

There may be 3F remnants around and I'll put it in the acquisition teams ears to be on lookout for, but the vehicles they were outfitted in were either mine trucks or work horses, so might be a can of worms.

New anything in Oz costs more than here, assuming we can get it here, thinking inflation.

That said, have seen a complete HDT-FE with H151F/HF1A and harness for ~$6,500.00 USD and carries a 10k kilometer warranty.....which isn't worth much in the US.
 
Cool Points - 3UZ>A761F>HF2A

Meh...

1UR>3UZ...but better have a Toyota team to wire either!!

Didn't Bacal have to carry the key fob while racing because they couldn't figure out anyway around the security?

There's an ideal drivetrain for sale in classifieds, now, it at least my version of, that's been running in a 40 for awhile for $4,800 OBO.

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60 or 70 axles, 35s, and it'd be a killer pig.
 
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