Yes 1UR close to 3UZ, but 3UZ would be easy to wire. No issue at all, can't say that for the 1UR.
Ideal drivetrain
- Thread starter FEJavelina
- Start date
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I've stumbled and fallen on a whole lot less that even a 2F.
The only thing "easy", for my dumbarse about wiring up the 1FZ endeavor is, where this one has an extra plug with a hog leg harness off it it.
This one does not...
That's easy, to me.
Hahaha.
I'd bet a 1FZ really wakes up with a 5-speed, I know the 3FE went from a sluggish beast to a speedster in my 40 with a 4-speed
Tucker
yeah those autos are a real ball and chain(till yer betwwen gears in compound lo-only reason to run an auto IMO; perfect for a welded trailer queen, not my daily driver)...the 3FE is a right engine, can't wait to get her the 5er..
alright, I'll play...
we're driving wagons, right?
3FE w/ fj80 injectors, dual exhaust w/o cats(2 pipes out the back), JimC spec headwork w/o compression milling(for possible turbo)
H55F, 38mm fj62 vacuum shift bearing supported gear splitcase
fj62 front ax w/IFS hubs(add 3" to the 60" wms-wms= 63"; easier access to birfs/inners), fzj80 elock diff 4.10:1 (modded for cable), w/factory fj62 locking inner shaft milled to prevent twist-lock
fZj80 FF disc/e-brake elocking rear ax(63" wms-wms), 4.10:1 diff (modded for cable)w/ shaft milled to prevent twist-lock
coil spring/radius arm front suspension w/ fj80 PS box
SUA rear suspension
2-3" over stock curb height MAX w/ 235/85/16.
must have A/C
must be easily repairable, hence use of mostly stock parts. I could retain 4 point leafs w/ forward front spring shackles...
That's the first I've heard the utterance that ATs are for trailer queens.... Hahahaha.
Dood, run 80 axles, 80 arms/links, and 80 coils, and call it a day.
While I realize there are probably a handful of failures of an untouched 8" R&P on 35" or smaller tires, truth is, they're may be as many with the 9.5" similar.
Until +35s, with an untouched diff, see no cause for concern, and the only reason why I say untouched is, I'd bet the majority of failures of 8" diffs, with 37s that have been regeared, are due to less than ideal installs.
Until you're bound up in reverse, and gettin' it with the skinny pedal, in a Cruiser you give two chits about the body of, the 8" ain't gonna spontaneously explode.
Same goes for elocked (or converted).
How many people have really had to torch out the housing to remove the axle stub?
Two? Three?
It ain't a common enough occurrence to truly be alarmed about, unless trying to hang with a bird cage rock buggy in a 5k station wagon. As with anything, judicious usage of the skinny pedal is key, and gearing deeper, cause you can with the split case, it's gonna negate benefit of gassing it, anyway.
Granted, I had every intention of cutting all of it out, but the 80 arms "limit flex" by design off road, because it maintains the drivers vision to the vehicles plane and forces the fairly good rear 5 link to move around, again, mo betta as we all know it's better to push the shopping cart, not pull it.
If I hadn't finally sold the 450 parts rig, I'd gladly send you the rest of what you need, link wise, to complete.
As to the 3FE.....meh......
A temporary measure by Toyota to maintain a US presence while trying to adapt the 1FZ-F(E) to the strict CA emissions standards.
( :cowering: :scared: )
Bahahahaha.
For humor, at least the last part.
Gotta remember that, somewhere out there, is that dumba$$ that thought the ideal drivetrain was an early 2F block, late 2F internal, 3F head, manifolds, carb, ignition, 3FE peripherals, H55, split case with e brake, and rebuilt OE axles.
What a dumba$$....
Dood, run 80 axles, 80 arms/links, and 80 coils, and call it a day.
While I realize there are probably a handful of failures of an untouched 8" R&P on 35" or smaller tires, truth is, they're may be as many with the 9.5" similar.
Until +35s, with an untouched diff, see no cause for concern, and the only reason why I say untouched is, I'd bet the majority of failures of 8" diffs, with 37s that have been regeared, are due to less than ideal installs.
Until you're bound up in reverse, and gettin' it with the skinny pedal, in a Cruiser you give two chits about the body of, the 8" ain't gonna spontaneously explode.
Same goes for elocked (or converted).
How many people have really had to torch out the housing to remove the axle stub?
Two? Three?
It ain't a common enough occurrence to truly be alarmed about, unless trying to hang with a bird cage rock buggy in a 5k station wagon. As with anything, judicious usage of the skinny pedal is key, and gearing deeper, cause you can with the split case, it's gonna negate benefit of gassing it, anyway.
Granted, I had every intention of cutting all of it out, but the 80 arms "limit flex" by design off road, because it maintains the drivers vision to the vehicles plane and forces the fairly good rear 5 link to move around, again, mo betta as we all know it's better to push the shopping cart, not pull it.
If I hadn't finally sold the 450 parts rig, I'd gladly send you the rest of what you need, link wise, to complete.
As to the 3FE.....meh......
A temporary measure by Toyota to maintain a US presence while trying to adapt the 1FZ-F(E) to the strict CA emissions standards.
( :cowering: :scared: )
Bahahahaha.
For humor, at least the last part.
Gotta remember that, somewhere out there, is that dumba$$ that thought the ideal drivetrain was an early 2F block, late 2F internal, 3F head, manifolds, carb, ignition, 3FE peripherals, H55, split case with e brake, and rebuilt OE axles.
What a dumba$$....
Haha really??? who the hell would have thought that old junk drivetrain was ideal??? 
yeah, a splitcase with an ebrake? c'mon! as for the 3FE...fuel injection and tractor motor collide- that bastard 6 has an aluminum head, evn if it does have correct flow direction;p
ha, but I don't see him here...
Stop-gap or not, I wheeled the same truck for years with both a carbed 2F and EFI 3FE. I'd take the later all day long, s*** gets scary when you're trying to flute the gas/clutch/brake in unison with two feet and not roll over. Never had the pleasure to wheel a 1FZ-FE with a manual, I'd put money on it grunting at 200RPM like its siblings ... you just can't do that with a V8.
Tucker
Tucker
Amen!