HID MINI H1 BRACKET AND PROJECTOR INSTALL GUIDE

jumptrader

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Not sure if you are asking for height and distance from a wall? If you follow the TRS video you should be good. Make sure you install the lights using all three bolts per light and adjust your lights before you seal them as you can turn the adjusters from the front with vice grips. Otherwise you will spend a few hours installing and removing you're lights because you can't reach the lower adjuster on the drivers side due to the battery. You can adjust your lights in 5 minutes from the front.
@Luke111 , are you adjusting the lights without the shroud on?
 

Luke111

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Yes, all the adjustments are simple and easy with the shrouds off. if you JB welded the bolts to the projector you can level the lights and tighten the bolts from the front. You can also adjust the height and side to side adjustments from the front with vice grips by turning the two threaded mounting/adjusters from the front. You will have no access with the shrouds on.
 

jumptrader

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@Luke111 @2000UZJ

Lou and Nick - A few questions about the High Beam cable:
  1. What happens if we leave out the High Beam cable to the Mini H1?
  2. Will the Mini H1 stay on at the same state even with the Hign Beam on, if there is no connection with the High Beam cable?
  3. Why wouldn't that be desirable?
  4. I notice the cable actives a solenoid that partially blocks (or reflects?) light from the original path. What is the purpose of that?
Many thanks!
 

Luke111

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@Luke111 @2000UZJ

Lou and Nick - A few questions about the High Beam cable:
  1. What happens if we leave out the High Beam cable to the Mini H1?
  2. Will the Mini H1 stay on at the same state even with the Hign Beam on, if there is no connection with the High Beam cable?
  3. Why wouldn't that be desirable?
  4. I notice the cable actives a solenoid that partially blocks (or reflects?) light from the original path. What is the purpose of that?
Many thanks!
Then your Mini H1 will not switch to the High Beam and simply be a low beam

When the projector is in low beam the shield is up and blocks the light which is why you have the sharp cutoff. If you connect the projector to the high beam the shield will drop open when you switch on your high beam and let more light out.

Pulled this off the net....

 

2000UZJ

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@Luke111 hit it on the head!

Their is a mechanical shield that limits the light in low beam mode, when you activate the high beams the shield drops out of the way creating the high beam.
 
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How much would you charge in labor to install the bracket and mount and adjust the projectors? I just picked up an LX but is too lazy to do this myself.
 

jumptrader

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Then your Mini H1 will not switch to the High Beam and simply be a low beam

When the projector is in low beam the shield is up and blocks the light which is why you have the sharp cutoff. If you connect the projector to the high beam the shield will drop open when you switch on your high beam and let more light out.

Pulled this off the net....

Makes sense... Was confused because the shield is at the bottom of the assembly, but because of the lense, is actually inverted at the output. Thank you!
 

Luke111

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@Luke111 @2000UZJ

Are you guys also sealing the hole where the High Beam cable (attached to the Mini H1) is coming out via the grommet? Will condensation form if the hole is not sealed?
I shrink wrap the wire with a couple of layers and insert 1/4 inch into the grommet and JB Weld it...not so much to keep condensation out but to relieve tension from the high beam connector which I also JB Weld in place and to keep water out. There are 3 vents (small rubber tubes) on the back of your lights for condensation control and the low beam housing has a small white canister that must retain a moisture relief agent.. What you really don't want is water getting in if you wash your engine or during water crossings. So to answer your question.... seal it!
 

jumptrader

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I shrink wrap the wire with a couple of layers and insert 1/4 inch into the grommet and JB Weld it...not so much to keep condensation out but to relieve tension from the high beam connector which I also JB Weld in place and to keep water out. There are 3 vents (small rubber tubes) on the back of your lights for condensation control and the low beam housing has a small white canister that must retain a moisture relief agent.. What you really don't want is water getting in if you wash your engine or during water crossings. So to answer your question.... seal it!
Great - thank you. Good idea on the relieve tension point.

I didn't see the moisture relief agent in the low beam housing. Does it need to be replenished? Dealing with a 2003 lense.
 

Luke111

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Great - thank you. Good idea on the relieve tension point.

I didn't see the moisture relief agent in the low beam housing. Does it need to be replenished? Dealing with a 2003 lense.
I should have said it might retain a moisture relief agent. There is a vent hole inside the housing going into that canister.... I highly doubt it needs to be or can be replenished. Since starting this project I’ve primarily worked with new OEM light housings so I’m not sure if your 2003 housing is the same

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Luke111

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Tips and Revisions

Let’s Start with the connectors the factory connectors are still OK to use I just prefer the white ones from TRS they fit the bracket much tighter and they’re really inexpensive. Once installed on the bracket you want to open them up with a 3/16 inch bit

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Luke111

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I also prefer to use 6-32-1/2 Stainless hardware
Before you mount the projector you should JB Weld the bolts to the projector this will make it very easy to tighten the bolts from the outside when you make your final adjustments..
I also JB Weld the nuts once everything is tight just to ensure that nothing comes loose

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Luke111

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The high beam connector/ trigger wire

It’s very important to test the high beam shield in the projector before you start. Connect the wire to the projector.... make sure it’s pushed all the way in. At this point you want to bench test them to ensure the high beam shield drops.... touching the wires to a battery will do the trick. At this point I JB Weld it into place.

After installing the bracket with the projector in the housing I take the high beam trigger wires and push them through the grommet which has already been installed. Next thing I do is apply a short piece of shrink wrap to wires right where they come out of the housing. Depending upon the size of the grommet you may have to apply a couple layers of shrink wrap pushing it back into the grommet to make sure it’s a fairly tight fit and once you’ve got the right fit push the shrink wrap through the grommet so about 1/4 inch is exposed inside the house. Apply JB Weld carefully .... I shield the end of the projector with a small piece of cardboard ...the last thing you want is JB Weld on the projector threads

At this point I add a braided sleeve....shrink wrap both ends, add the connector and JB Weld the base of the wire at the housing..
I have found JB Weld Kwik Weld sets up pretty quick..
Don’t hesitate to call me with any questions.

Lou

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