Not sure if you are asking for height and distance from a wall? If you follow the TRS video you should be good. Make sure you install the lights using all three bolts per light and adjust your lights before you seal them as you can turn the adjusters from the front with vice grips. Otherwise you will spend a few hours installing and removing you're lights because you can't reach the lower adjuster on the drivers side due to the battery. You can adjust your lights in 5 minutes from the front.
Lou and Nick - A few questions about the High Beam cable:
- What happens if we leave out the High Beam cable to the Mini H1?
- Will the Mini H1 stay on at the same state even with the Hign Beam on, if there is no connection with the High Beam cable?
- Why wouldn't that be desirable?
- I notice the cable actives a solenoid that partially blocks (or reflects?) light from the original path. What is the purpose of that?
Then your Mini H1 will not switch to the High Beam and simply be a low beam
When the projector is in low beam the shield is up and blocks the light which is why you have the sharp cutoff. If you connect the projector to the high beam the shield will drop open when you switch on your high beam and let more light out.
Pulled this off the net....
I shrink wrap the wire with a couple of layers and insert 1/4 inch into the grommet and JB Weld it...not so much to keep condensation out but to relieve tension from the high beam connector which I also JB Weld in place and to keep water out. There are 3 vents (small rubber tubes) on the back of your lights for condensation control and the low beam housing has a small white canister that must retain a moisture relief agent.. What you really don't want is water getting in if you wash your engine or during water crossings. So to answer your question.... seal it!
Great - thank you. Good idea on the relieve tension point.
I didn't see the moisture relief agent in the low beam housing. Does it need to be replenished? Dealing with a 2003 lense.