HID MINI H1 BRACKET AND PROJECTOR INSTALL GUIDE

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@Luke111 I am about to order from TRS and wanted to confirm your list on page#1 is accurate. The link to the MotoHo1ders is no good but I see you can add them to H1 StageIII kit.

TIA
 
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The guide on the first page has a couple dead attachments at the end and I am assuming those talk about the 9006 connector and wiring it to the original connector. I assume green is positive and black is negative, but my multi-meter is dead and I don't have a new battery for it to test that.

I really don't want to blow up my brand new Morimoto system due to a guess. Can you double check those attachments and see if you can re-upload the pictures?

HID Retrofit Guide.JPG
 

Luke111

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The guide on the first page has a couple dead attachments at the end and I am assuming those talk about the 9006 connector and wiring it to the original connector. I assume green is positive and black is negative, but my multi-meter is dead and I don't have a new battery for it to test that.

I really don't want to blow up my brand new Morimoto system due to a guess. Can you double check those attachments and see if you can re-upload the pictures?

View attachment 1839046
Those pictures were deleted and had nothing to do with wiring ... Green is positive and you won't blow up your new system if you cross wired it
 

Luke111

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I didn't have to cut the high beam. I used the high beam splitter. Plugged right into the factory harness, stock high beam bulb and HID high beam trigger.
Ok. So does replace the low beam connector? I may have mis-worded my prior question
 

BEG

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Ok. So does replace the low beam connector? I may have mis-worded my prior question
You can do it one of two ways:
1) Cut the pigtail off the low beam cap and splice it to the 9006 with the bare wires or
2) Cut the harness side and splice that directly to the 9006
Option one keeps your harness in tact but has more connections (OEM harness to OEM plug to 9006 to relays). I did option two.
 
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You can do it one of two ways:
1) Cut the pigtail off the low beam cap and splice it to the 9006 with the bare wires or
2) Cut the harness side and splice that directly to the 9006
Option one keeps your harness in tact but has more connections (OEM harness to OEM plug to 9006 to relays). I did option two.
Got it. Thanks for clarifying
 
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Jan 9, 2017
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Got everything wired and the headlights separated after baking. I’ve watched several videos about removing the excess glue, and I can’t tell if it’s easier to re-heat and peak or scrape off? The glass lenses seem easier to scrape with a utility knife. What about getting it off the housing?
 

Luke111

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Got everything wired and the headlights separated after baking. I’ve watched several videos about removing the excess glue, and I can’t tell if it’s easier to re-heat and peak or scrape off? The glass lenses seem easier to scrape with a utility knife. What about getting it off the housing?
Cut a 2 inch piece of the new headlights sealer... ball it up and use it to remove glue from the housing and glass. Alcohol work for final clean up on glass only housinggs once you’ve sealed them up.
You should also remove some of the sealant from the tracks before adding the new sealant. Using a heat gun and a flat head screwdriver to remove and smooth down the sealant before adding
more.
If you have questions
call or text me for a faster response 703-371-8494
Thanks @BEG for responding
 
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Jan 28, 2019
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Denver
I need some help. Can handle assembling the headlights well enough, but the wiring isn’t quite coming to me. I think most questions are in the picture text. Also what are good locations to mount the boxes?

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640ECBBE-909D-460C-9F51-F886D656CC84.jpeg
 

Luke111

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How exactly do you check for level? I understand that you can just turn the projector with your hand, but how do you determine that it’s actually level? Does this require turning on the light with a battery?
 
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