Hi to everyone, new to this form. Need help with getting truck to pass smog (1 Viewer)

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How do I clear the codes?

Since taking this to a shop have you tried to pull new codes. Make sure the old codes are cleared first by pulling the EFI fuse for a few minutes. Then take it for a putt, and check for codes again.

NOx is nitrogen oxides. It's controlled by the EGR. It looks like they don't test for this where you live. They don't in NM either. Dang, you have done a lot to chase this down. One item not on your list that has been suggested was a valve adjustment.
 
Possible available personalized plates: MOWB or MOW-B, MOBDCK. This will be the great white whale in our neighborhood of increasing EVs and smaller vehicles.
Leaky FPR?
I think it is very unlikely that the issues is caused by a leaking Fuel pressure regulator. When say leaking you mean the vacuum part of the diaphragm?
A good possibility is dirty injector or bad spray pattern fuel won't atomize properly.
 
Leaky FPR?
I was thinking leaking injectors. I just replaced mine and found fuel ponding in the lower runners.
 
I was just spitballing there. I frankly think it's too rich. Not being properly controlled by the o2.
Maybe a small exhaust leak. Or wiring in the o2 circuit.
 
I looked under the hood and found that the mechanic had left all the hose clamps loose from air box to intake manifold so In think that is the vacuum leak the tech was telling me about during the test.

Dose anyone know what a smoke test is?

I am going to replace the cat. The tech suggested that i This is a fed. compliant truck registered in CA. so would there be any advantage in replacing the cat with a CA. cat. ( a lot more money) over the Fed. cat?
 
Go Fed on the cat. No need to spend the big bucks.
 
besides addressing the vacuum leak the tech said you may have, another area to consider would be the EGR and EGR vacuum modulator. have you made sure they are connected and functioning properly? if the EGR is stuck open or opens too soon it could cause a rich condition at anything other that WOT. I would not install a new cat until you fix the unburned fuel issue
 
Ok, the nightmare continues. I put the truck in to the dealer and they fixed the vacuum line routing and set the TPS and timing to 5 deg. I made app to get emissions ck and on the way there it started missing. The tech at the dealer is off for another 2 months so I put it in another shop that I have used in the past. He was unable to deter mend what is wrong but said he THINKS that maybe the timing chain has a problem or the air box he was unable to get the timing back to 5 deg. it is at 11. I have checked the codes and there is only one, 42. the code says, wiring,VSS,ECM.

Any body have any Ideas as to what to do next other than Junk It?
Gary
 
At this point i would try to get it to a tech that can use an ignition scope and gas machine.

If you have a hard miss, and your "tech" cant figure it out, get a new tech.

Its not the chain and its not VSS. Likely not the airbox either.
Timing is effected basically by the tps, dist, ignitor and ecu.

Is your IAC water passages clear?
Have you verified injector wire harness isnt corroded?
 
At this point i would try to get it to a tech that can use an ignition scope and gas machine.

If you have a hard miss, and your "tech" cant figure it out, get a new tech.

Its not the chain and its not VSS. Likely not the airbox either.
Timing is effected basically by the tps, dist, ignitor and ecu.

Is your IAC water passages clear?
Have you verified injector wire harness isnt corroded?

The VSS is part of the speedometer, right?
The spedo and odometer do not work, is that part of the problem?
What is an IAC?
How do you ck the injector wire harness for corrosion?
the timing chain drives the dist. so if it is jumped or loose then would it be off. at 11 deg. that is quite a bit off.
 
Vss is in the speedo head.
Iac=idle air control. I have seen the water passage clog which causes an air pocket on the ECT, constant fast or fluctuating idle.

Wire harness can be resistance or voltage drop tested and/or visually inspected.

Not 100% on the math but pretty sure a skipped chain is going to be more than 6°.

Also 5° shorted is roughly 11-12° not shorted
 
The VSS is part of the speedometer, right?
The spedo and odometer do not work, is that part of the problem?
Yes, and no. I believe on our trucks the vehicle speed sensor is built into the back side of the speedometer in the dash. I know it's that way on a FJ62. With the 3FE you can disconnect the VSS and the engine runs fine. At least, that is what folks have claimed (I run it on mine). If your speedometer is not working I would figure out why. It's probably something simple, like a broken cable, or a disconnect at either the transfer case, or the back of the dash.

How do you ck the injector wire harness for corrosion?

My preferred way is to pull the harness out of the truck and lay it out on the garage floor. Others do it with the harness still in the truck, and just peal it back onto the fender to work on. In a nut shell. There are multiple splices in the harness. The splices that seem to cause the biggest headache are the splices to the fuel injectors. The grounds are spliced together in multiple places. The signal wires to injectors 1 & 2 are spliced together, and 3 & 4 are spliced together. The splices are simple brass clips, and those, plus the wires, corrode. I dug for my pictures, but couldn't put eyeballs on them. I'll keep looking, because pictures help. When I did mine I also replaced the injector connectors since they were brittle.

the timing chain drives the dist. so if it is jumped or loose then would it be off. at 11 deg. that is quite a bit off.

Are you sure the tech knew to short the service terminal? 11-13 degrees is about right unshorted.

Have you had the fuel injectors cleaned/rebuilt?
 
Pics. Just a note. My harness has been repaired twice. Back in the day I didn't know as much as I know now. My truck was running like crap, so I took it to the dealer. This was well before the Internet. Well, they fixed it with butt splices. You can see one of them in the pics. My fixes included solder and shrink-tube.

One of the butt splices, and a brass crimp.

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Half the harness fixed.

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The harness fixed.

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I found 2 butt splices and have fixed them. see photos.
The trucks runs much better but not perfect. I have the 42 code back so I am wondering how to get the harness out of the truck. Do I have to remove the throttle body and box or is there another way? I cant get to any more of the harness the way it is

Since the spedo and odomitor don't work should I get a cable to fix them also or at lease vss would work

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Check the plastic gear in your t case. Just diagnosed my buddies today. One 12mm bolt and the assembly slides out. You can verify your Speedo is working by disconnecting it at the t-case and spinning it. Have a buddy watch your cluster and make sure it’s working.
 
Also, make sure that when the smog shop is doing the dyno, they shift gears on the 25mph run. Some shops won’t because they say the state dings them?? Idk why but last time I checked I don’t tach my truck to 3k when doing 25mph. The high rpm causes your nox levels to sky rocket. Call BS and don’t pay if you look at the RPM numbers and they are higher than 2k.
 

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