Hi to everyone, new to this form. Need help with getting truck to pass smog (2 Viewers)

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Any updates?? Where exactly are you located? I’m up in Sac, I’d be willing to help out if you can’t get your rig going. Let me know...
 
Any updates?? Where exactly are you located? I’m up in Sac, I’d be willing to help out if you can’t get your rig going. Let me know...
Hi Toast, I am about 150 south of Reno on hwy 395 in Big Pine, CA. I have fixed the splices, I cleared the code and started the engine while it was siting in front of my house. turned off the motor jumped and checked codes, no codes. I am thinking that since the speedo and odementer are not working the computer is unable to since the speed and that is what is caucusing the problem. I am trying to get the instrument cluster to put in the new cable and look inside the spedo
 
Refresh my memory, what year is your re? Have you tried replacing your ecu?
 
The speedometer is mechanical and has nothing to do with the ecu. I don’t think that’s your issue at all. After fixing your injector wiring, have you seen any improvements? How old is your O2 sensor?
 
The speedometer is mechanical and has nothing to do with the ecu. I don’t think that’s your issue at all. After fixing your injector wiring, have you seen any improvements? How old is your O2 sensor?
VSS is in the back of the odometer and if it is not working the the ecu does not sense the speed, is that right? o2 is new. Yes some improvement but still has a miss
 
VSS is in the back of the odometer and if it is not working the the ecu does not sense the speed, is that right? o2 is new. Yes some improvement but still has a miss

Ignorant to the VSS as my buddies rig hasn’t had a working Speedo since day one and his rig runs flawlessly. Disconnect and plug off your EGR. Let me know if that does anything
 
VSS is in the back of the odometer and if it is not working the the ecu does not sense the speed, is that right? o2 is new. Yes some improvement but still has a miss
My 1985 FSM does show a speed sensor from the dash. On the FJ62/3FE, it's a simple "reed switch" type sensor that produces 4-pulses per revolution of the speedometer. In other words, the mechanical speedometer converts the rotations to electrical pulses. As I said before, several folks have transplanted the 3FE into other vehicles, and did not hook up a speed sensor without any problem. Still, I figured Toyota put the VSS there for a reason, so I had one custom made for my conversion.
 
My 89 re had a hiccup or “miss” at steady idle. I Figured out (after breaking 2 valve springs) I had burned exhaust valve seats. Crappy seats were being eaten away allowing my valve to drop a tiny bit at a time into my head which caused my valve to tighten which would hold it open causing a miss. Adjusting valves would temporarily help the “miss”. Adjust your valves. Any of them getting suspiciously tight often? This might be the case. Hope not though. When this first started I found exhaust leaks were making this miss worse as well as the EGR. Check both of those. Ensure vacuum routing is spot on. Check tightness on intake tubing. ( I left mine loose one time )
 
After completely reading through your entire thread I can better understand your truck. First thing you need to do is verify your EGR is working. Pull the vacuum line off the top and apply vacuum to your EGR diaphragm. Your engine should cut out and die. Sounds like your vacuum lines are ran correctly but if you haven't done so, I would replace all your vacuum lines with nice new ones. Cheap insurance that a hose isn't cracked or collapsing. there is a back EGR plate on the very backside of the head held on by 5 bolts. This needs to be free and clear of carbon. Check your BVSV ( vacuum switching valve that allows vacuum flow to your EGR ) Its the little purple guy on the lower front of your intake with 2 nipples sticking forward. Very fragile but should allow vacuum flow after engine comes up to temp. Check the EGR vacuum modulator (plastic puck thing that sits on top of EGR). Make sure that it isn't plugged up and is free flowing. What kind of oxygen sensor did you get? If it isn't a Denso then its crap. Should be a 4 wire one under the cab in front of the cat. My rig is a Cali truck and I don't have the single wire O2 on the manifold. Get a timing gun and check to make sure that when you jump the diag port your timing goes from 5 to 12 and when you unplug it that it goes back. This means your TPS is working. Ask your shop to provide a list of approved cats for your rig. Using those numbers, find a good replacement cat. Hopefully they allow you to get a federal cat. I've heard good things about WALKER cats from rock auto. You need one for sure but make sure that everything else is checked and in place. Get a cat that bolts on so you can unbolt it and save it in between smogs. Trying to think of anything else but this honestly sounds like a crappy O2 if you are running rich. You could always pull all of your injectors and have them cleaned, balanced and rebuilt. Runs about $130. wondering if you could somehow have a leaky cold start injector or faulty EGT sensor telling your cold start to keep dumping fuel... research how the cold start works.
 
Here are my results

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Additionally, You need to look at your air injection components. make sure nothing is broken or out of place. High HCs are usually caused by a rig being too lean not too rich so that has me wondering about your 02... I'm still thinking your EGR isn't working right but you for sure need a new cat. Is your distributor all the way maxed out left or right? should be somewhere in the middle allowing adjustment in either direction. You may want to put your engine in TDC on no 1 and re-stab your distributor just to be certain that your not a tooth off. It happens. High HC's are also caused by improper timing so this is why I'm suspicious of that. I know you replaced your plugs but how old are the plug wires, cap and rotor? all these need to be replaced together. If you haven't done so, replace them with OEM components. Plug wires can be replaced with the blue NGK wires if you don't want to shell out the $$$ for wires but you need to replace them. Your high CO levels indicate a rich fuel mixture but I would first focus on the high HC levels. I'm definitely suspicious of the ECU temp sensor being bad though... do you have to crank your truck a lot when cold? when it starts does it idle high? it should, if not bad cold start injector sensor on front of intake. I think earlier i said EGT sensor is on the intake... sorry its on the egr sticking straight out. Check that out and make sure its working. IF the ECU temp sensor is bad the ecu wont know how hot or cold your rig is to deliver fuel properly. That sensor is cheap. Look up how to check it to see if its bad. Performance 22re has a ton of great diag tech that you need to loose yourself in for a few hours. How dirty is your air filter? Replace it if you have to think about it. If anyone can think of anything else feel free to jump in lol.
 
Yea, they gave me a heap of crap for 33's so i had to put on 31's. Make sure those bastards are shifting into second gear when doing the dyno!!!
 
Yea, they gave me a heap of crap for 33's so i had to put on 31's. Make sure those bastards are shifting into second gear when doing the dyno!!!

I'm not buying 31" tires just to put the truck on a dyno. 35" tires are becoming factory sized tires on some vehicles, as it is.
 
Ignorant to the VSS.
I figured Toyota put the VSS there for a reason

In the older manual Toyota trucks, besides cruise control, the VSS signal, in conjunction with the brake pedal signal(STP), is used by the ECU to modify the deceleration fuel cut program when the vehicle is braking while moving. In the event that the VSS or STP signal is lost, fuel cut will take place at the standard deceleration speed causing an objectionable feel when fuel is canceled and cause the check engine light to illuminate.
Just having the check engine light on in California is an automatic fail so I would repair the speedo cable or speedo gears at the transfer case if you think that's what is keeping the VSS signal from the ECU.
 
I was taking Toasts advise and ck the ERG when the wire for #4 cyl injector came off. I cleaned the contact and put it back on. Took the truck for a spin and had no miss and it seems to me to be running perfect. I guess the miss was the loose injector wire. My next thing is to get it tested and see if it passes. Thanks all for all your help, Gary

PS. Will let you know if it passes. Sorry for the late post but the internet has been down all day, when you live in the middle of no ware you have to put up with poor service not like liveing in the bid city.
 
I was taking Toasts advise and ck the ERG when the wire for #4 cyl injector came off. I cleaned the contact and put it back on. Took the truck for a spin and had no miss and it seems to me to be running perfect. I guess the miss was the loose injector wire. My next thing is to get it tested and see if it passes. Thanks all for all your help, Gary

PS. Will let you know if it passes. Sorry for the late post but the internet has been down all day, when you live in the middle of no ware you have to put up with poor service not like liveing in the bid city.
I live in a "big city" and it's not unusual for Cumcast to do down.
 
I wouldn't waste your time until you throw a fresh cat on there....
 

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