Builds Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons

cruisermatt

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We would need a 5" or potentially smaller pulley...

I'm gonna get iterative on this. Tomorrow I'll run the stock pulley with my 'i lost the orifice fitting' mod, which if my understanding is correct will make the pump noisy but boosty at higher rpms. It should still suck at idle.

Then maybe we drill the cbr pump. I can put it in my drill press since we are making a through-hole, but what part number gives me a 5" or smaller pulley? Since you ordered 10...
we'll see, i have the diameters for each part number but they all look like they have different offsets from the pictures. There was no info about that. Measure the distance from the back of your pump to the pulley once it's assembled.

You just want a Sierra pump don't you? Is this a trick to fence your eBay Camaro pump?
lol I'm no con man, I have faith in the eBay pump
 

joez

 
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I am embarrassed to say that I had missed this thread until now. Awesome work, it almost makes me want to switch to Tons when I build my new axles just for that kind of width. But in keeping consistent with burning piles of cash, I won't.

Seriously fantastic work, this thing will be an excellent family wheeler.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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we'll see, i have the diameters for each part number but they all look like they have different offsets from the pictures. There was no info about that. Measure the distance from the back of your pump to the pulley once it's assembled.



lol I'm no con man, I have faith in the eBay pump
I can space the pump out away from the block. The smallest pump with this shaft diameter appears to be the sweet looking TRAIL GEAR pulley:


Oem wise, this is ok too

 

cruisermatt

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I think I bought a 300-319, I would like to use that one too.

Interesting note, I found my TC pump and it has two holes all the way through the body.
Pressure outlet is on the wrong side though.

786478EC-E066-4995-A72F-950AC8C3E712.jpeg
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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Truck looks good!

What is your front link separation at the axle/frame, and how long are your lowers? Did you bend the upper to clear the motor mount? Did you relocate the oil filter? Front spring rates?

I'm building a 3 linked 02 with a diamond 9.5, planning on building a new motor mount for the passenger side to gain 2" of uptravel. Possibly moving the motor up while i'm at it. I'm only running 37's and about a 3.5" lift height.
Just saw pics of your rig - do you have a build thread?
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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Update:
Finished the exhaust (it routes out the back now), finished the bumper with paint 'n' stuff. Put LEDs under the headlamp to act as blinkers, only to find some thread later that says I can use the corner lights out of an LC that have both park/turn signals :(


I also mounted the winch, capped one of the coilovers in the rear, and....

Replaced the steering pump with a 2018 3500HD pump. You have to drill out the two opposing mounts, drill the input, tap for a 1/2" NPT, and then it bolts right on. Mount up a 300-319 dorman pulley and... uhh, well, there you go.



Result? Kinda the same. I think the phasing of the input shaft u joints is problematic, or the VGRS is somehow actually fighting or binding up the steering. I sort of doubt the latter since it was all fine before I removed the rack. It was super light and fluffy to steer, actually.

It could also be just a bunch of things.... weird phasey input u joints with a steering box that isn't known for it's overly boosted feelt combined with a lot of caster... I don't know. I'm going to figure it out one way or another. I might noodle a bit longer on it, or figure out some way to test it more formally. It could be something as dumb as one of the fittings to the box being restrictive, but the reservoir shows a ton of fluid flowing happily.
 
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nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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OK, some updates. Been doing a lot of random electrical work, switch wiring, winch mounting, etc. Stuff like that. Why? Because I'm neglecting the steering problem.

First, the winch I bought from a "friend" (lol) didn't work. He had some shop in Seattle (name withheld) who are "experts" in winch refurbishing "fix it" and then he stuck it on his shelf. $300 or something he paid to rebuild this 9.5 XP. Sure doesn't look like it:


I popped a new bearing on it, cleaned up the brushes, had to drill out the rusted brush holder screw, etc... what a mess. Also, what a POS. I've never seen such shoddy construction. Warn winches FTL.

Anyway, whatever. Mounted it up, and threw some bro lights on the bumper:




I had to "remote" mount the control box up high enough to clear the little fascia thingamajig. But it allowed me to keep the winch mounted nice and tight to the frame:


Hard to see, but I also had to weld a tab onto the hood to relocate the hood latch since the bro lights are in the way now:



Lastly, I gave up on repurposing the Night View ECU / switch - ran into problem after problem and I wanted full control over my bro lights. I do want to get the LED on the dash to light up still for the hell of it, but I made a little bracket for some solenoids that I mounted near the air box (and above the OEM night view solenoid box, in homage):


Don't tell anyone. Night View has been removed.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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Other stuff I dont' have pictures of - I repurposed the antenna up/down switch by installing some relays in the OEM antenna control box (behind the glove box) to supply +12v to the wiring harness in the fender. Then did a 3-pin conversion on the winch so I could have in-cab winch controls. Win.

Also, on a positive note, rather than a useless bro light update, I think I found the source of my steering binding - the support bearing holding the input shaft may be overconstraining the whole assembly after all. I say this because in playing with its adjustment, it made a huge difference in the lumpiness and bindiness of the system. My guess is that the hard mounting approach doesn't work for a system that probably has some run-out (and also a misalignment between frame and body inherent during actual driving, etc). I ordered some rubber grommets that I was going to put in between the jam nuts and the mounting bracket so that it has some misalignment tolerance. Will report back.

Does anyone know enough about body shops to give me some perspective on whether or not I can just drive this thing somewhere and let them finish the fenders for me? I have trimmed them to where I want them to be, but now the wheel wells are exposed to the cab. This isn't the end of the world to fix myself but it's the kind of work I hate doing more than anything. My fear is that most body shops will concentrate on just replacing OEM door skins and resprays, not custom weird fenders and bondo (I'm only looking for C- quality here - bondo is fine with me) so that it's relatively sealed / rust proof
 

MongooseGA

Learns things the hard way
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You'd better fix your signature before people start calling you a poser.

I mean I wouldn't. But people would.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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Three cheers for Coronavirus! Since I'm basically quarantined thanks to the Draconian measures of the California government, I've resumed progress on the Lexus.

I started on a skid plate that I don't have pics of but I am waiting on some ar500 plate to see how that does with sliding and stuff...

So I finished the thing I didn't want to finish - I capped the coilovers on the interior, modified the panels, and welded the fenders back. I bondo'd them so that they're watertight and I'll paint them later. Maybe. Fishing the sunroof drains back through the fenders was terrible but I did it.





 

joez

 
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Jul 30, 2007
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First, the winch I bought from a "friend" (lol) didn't work. He had some shop in Seattle (name withheld) who are "experts" in winch refurbishing "fix it" and then he stuck it on his shelf. $300 or something he paid to rebuild this 9.5 XP. Sure doesn't look like it:


I popped a new bearing on it, cleaned up the brushes, had to drill out the rusted brush holder screw, etc... what a mess. Also, what a POS. I've never seen such shoddy construction. Warn winches FTL.
Hate to say it, but they are pretty much s***, and really aren't evolving much. I've spent way to much time and money keeping my HS9500 going over the years, granted I love the line speed and how hard it pulls, but I've had it for 15 years and it's on its 3rd motor. When I toss a winch on the 5th Gen, warn will be one of the last brands I look at.

Love the integration of the antenna switches, I really need to do that to my 80.
 

nukegoat

Should have bought a Jeep
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Hate to say it, but they are pretty much s***, and really aren't evolving much. I've spent way to much time and money keeping my HS9500 going over the years, granted I love the line speed and how hard it pulls, but I've had it for 15 years and it's on its 3rd motor. When I toss a winch on the 5th Gen, warn will be one of the last brands I look at.

Love the integration of the antenna switches, I really need to do that to my 80.
Yep. Warn I think cultivated the marketing very well but their products are garbage. 8274 may be an exception.
 
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