Build GW Nugget's Budget Daily Lx450 build

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I went another direction from the original plan of the twin ARB in the rear quarter panel. It is now under the front driver seat for more air circulation. It turns out I can get a lot more storage in the rear quarter panel with the bracket I made.... #twinARB #QuarterPanelMount


Click on link above to watch video.​
 
What's with the poll above? You are thinking of going with something more hard core?
Yep, someday it will happen... with this rig or another. The main plan is to put a J4 (40 series) body like a J43 on a 80 series chassis. From there it changes... here are a few examples:
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Hey @GW Nugget

I'm trying to find the post in here where you covered narrowing your radius arms but am having a little trouble. Any idea, roughly, where in your build you did that?

Thanks!
 
The wheels are 17x9 3.5" BS
That puts the track width out 1" from center (were it was) same as a 8" wheel 3" BS .5" wider than your set up.
Any further cutting with these new wheels stickin out a bit more? Do you think an additional 2 inch bumpstop from stock front and rear would save me from cutting my fenders if i go 37s with 17x9 and 3.5 backspace?
 
Sorry for the lack of info above. I have icon stage 3. 24.5 inches flare to hub on all 4 corners. 2 inch maf drop brackets and caster bushings from icon. Installing delta rear panhard brackets soon.
 
Any further cutting with these new wheels stickin out a bit more? Do you think an additional 2 inch bumpstop from stock front and rear would save me from cutting my fenders if i go 37s with 17x9 and 3.5 backspace?
I decided to just lower my bumps for now to 1" front & 2.25" rear & see how it works for now. Going wheelin to try them out this weekend.

You're going to need a lot more bump stops than 2" like you wrote.
Without my 1" body lift my bump stops would be 2" front & 3.25" rear.
Uncut front fenders would need another 1" more
That would be like 3" front or more & 3.25" rear

To answer your question, to run a wider wheel like me without cutting you would have to lower bump stop to the point it would have like only 3" of uptravel. If you do not want to cut front fenders & retain flares I would stick to a centered wheel like a 4.5" BS 9" wheel or a 4" BS 8" wheel. Those will stuff much better than & use less bump stops. With those wheels I would lower bumps 2.5" to start.
 
I shot some video, put it on IG this is not final just 1st time out. Bumps are at 1" front 2" rear in vid. I will be sliding in a .25" shim tonight in the rear. (.25" should lower tire by .5")


Click link to watch video

I need to trim a wee bit more off the rear flares...
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To answer your question, to run a wider wheel like me without cutting you would have to lower bump stop to the point it would have like only 3" of uptravel. If you do not want to cut front fenders & retain flares I would stick to a centered wheel like a 4.5" BS 9" wheel or a 4" BS 8" wheel. Those will stuff much better than & use less bump stops. With those wheels I would lower bumps 2.5" to start.

Just my nagging OCD here... I understand fully how you're reaching the conclusion, but a 4" BS 8" wheel (or 4.5" BS 9" wheel) is not "centered" or "zero offset". It is counterintuitive indeed, but backspace is measured from the outer wheel lip (on the vehicle side/inside of the wheel), but wheel width is measured from the actual inner bead surface. The difference in measurement comes from the width of the outer lip (think where the hammer-on weight is installed). A "zero offset" wheel will indeed have a centered mounting surface - this is because offset is measured from the center of the wheel.

For example, an 8" wide wheel will measure 8" where the tire itself mounts - inside the bead area - but will measure almost 9" wide if you measure from outer rim lip to outer rim lip. So, an 8" wide wheel with 4" backspacing will actually have an offset of -13mm (1/2") assuming that the lip on the rim is 13mm thick.

An 8" wide wheel with 0 offset will actually have closer to 4.5" of backspacing.

And, I have no idea why inches are usually the unit for wheel width and backspacing, but millimeters are the go-to for offset.

Clear as mud?

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Just my nagging OCD here... I understand fully how you're reaching the conclusion, but a 4" BS 8" wheel (or 4.5" BS 9" wheel) is not "centered" or "zero offset". It is counterintuitive indeed, but backspace is measured from the outer wheel lip (on the vehicle side/inside of the wheel), but wheel width is measured from the actual inner bead surface. The difference in measurement comes from the width of the outer lip (think where the hammer-on weight is installed). A "zero offset" wheel will indeed have a centered mounting surface - this is because offset is measured from the center of the wheel.

For example, an 8" wide wheel will measure 8" where the tire itself mounts - inside the bead area - but will measure almost 9" wide if you measure from outer rim lip to outer rim lip. So, an 8" wide wheel with 4" backspacing will actually have an offset of -13mm (1/2") assuming that the lip on the rim is 13mm thick.

An 8" wide wheel with 0 offset will actually have closer to 4.5" of backspacing.

And, I have no idea why inches are usually the unit for wheel width and backspacing, but millimeters are the go-to for offset.

Clear as mud?

View attachment 1757819
Does that matter if it is steel or aluminum?
Steel is a lot thinner.
Units of measure with wheels seems all jacked up just like measuring shocks from the collar rather than mounting point but must go with the industry standard a** backwards or not.

I need to stop writing the word "centered" then.
Is there a better word to write rather than centered?
 
As for a sway bar I can drive safely without one but having one would greatly improve road performance. I'm hoping the thinner "fj80" front swaybar is the put it on & leave it happy medium that I'm looking for. @AutoCraft Aus Darren says that's what he does.... AutoCraft runs a thicker rear & thinner front. Right now it feels like I'm back on 35"s again. The Slinky suspension makes me want to drive faster... it really gives me confidence to go bigger & enter turns faster. Off road it's comfy & stable... the rear doesn't unload as much as my other single rate coils did while doing off camber down hill turns.

The stock brake lines have been clearanced.

I am looking forward to do other things to my rig rather than suspension... I'm actually sick & tired of R&Ding suspension. I want to work on a center console, 2nd batt, winch, getting my spare outside & a rack so I can sleep in the back on trips.

So, it looks like I got the 91-92 extended brake lines with my Slinky kit and the FZJ lines are on back order. Do you have any pictures of what you did to clearance your stock brake lines? Did you make some drop brackets and stretch the hard line?
 
So, it looks like I got the 91-92 extended brake lines with my Slinky kit and the FZJ lines are on back order. Do you have any pictures of what you did to clearance your stock brake lines? Did you make some drop brackets and stretch the hard line?
It's not pretty, quite embarrassing in fact. It all works well but the passenger front. I'll snap some picks when I can. I added some longer bolts, larger nuts & bent down brackets.
 
So, it looks like I got the 91-92 extended brake lines with my Slinky kit and the FZJ lines are on back order. Do you have any pictures of what you did to clearance your stock brake lines? Did you make some drop brackets and stretch the hard line?
I would highly recommend sourcing some brake lines through another supplier you can get them just about anywhere in fact you've urged me on to go ahead and order my own set. I'm going to buy some brake lines after looking at these pictures it looks terrible but here you go I'm embarrassed to post these pictures.
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I would highly recommend sourcing some brake lines through another supplier you can get them just about anywhere in fact you've urged me on to go ahead and order my own set. I'm going to buy some brake lines after looking at these pictures

Any idea on which vendor your are going to buy from? I heard that there may be an OEM option, but I haven't yet found what parts I should order.
 
Joey at Witts End just started selling the longer stock ones & Beno is a good source also.

When I raced quads going from rubber to stainless steal braided lines because the rubber ones would expand in width which gave a spongy feel. I do not know if this is true for stock Toyota brake lines.
If anyone has a comment on this feel free to add a opinion.

As far as venders there is a lot out there now days.... Cruiser Outfitters, MT, Slee, Trail Taylor, Summit, Low Range, LC Heaven do I need to go on?
 
Any idea on which vendor your are going to buy from? I heard that there may be an OEM option, but I haven't yet found what parts I should order.
Joey at Witts End just started selling the longer stock ones & Beno is a good source also.

When I raced quads going from rubber to stainless steal braided lines because the rubber ones would expand in width which gave a spongy feel. I do not know if this is true for stock Toyota brake lines.
If anyone has a comment on this feel free to add a opinion.

As far as venders there is a lot out there now days.... Cruiser Outfitters, MT, Slee, Trail Taylor, Summit, Low Range, LC Heaven do I need to go on?


If you want OEM lines, you this chart to cross-reference part numbers. Just find the length you need:

v3hCUQQ.jpg
 
Road & Dirt Tripin with my oldest 2018

My oldest & I took the long way up to our local base camp area (approx. 9 hours) where we go wheelin. This time we went directly East across the valley to Pine Flat Lake on up to Black Rock Reservoir on up to Wishon Reservoir down through the McKinley Grove trees past Dinky Creek on up to Saver Lake to fuel up & grab some pizza. Then headed up toward Huntington Lake to Bald Mountain base camp approx. 6 miles in from Tamarac Ridge Snow Park.
Here is the video footage of the fun in Lx450 wheelin wagon.

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Suspension Test/ Havin fun in the Lx450 80 series


 
Looks like I can only post 2 vids at a time
 
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