Bilstein’s are probably better. I’ve never used them personally, but I would imagine they’re smoother than OEM.
Builds Grey Gardens FJ62LG-PNEA: An idiots guide to resurrecting a high mileage FJ62 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter HemiAlex
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- 3fe build thread fj62 h55f
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TStro
SILVER Star
I love the ride on my Bilstein's
- Thread starter
- #263
Tomorrow will be a day of grinding bolts off non stop.
I expect all 8 catalytic converter bolts to have to be cut off one by one. They’re all corroded.
I expect all 8 catalytic converter bolts to have to be cut off one by one. They’re all corroded.
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- #264
None of that went as expected.
I thought I could just grind and cut down the bolt heads on all 8 catalytic converter bolts.
No luck. In scoring the bolts off I sliced into a head pipe with the grinder. Just went ahead and replaced the head pipes. Getting exhaust manifold bolts off was a pain, and trying to preserve the heat shield bolts on the oxygen sensors was hard.
All of the mounts and hangers for the head pipes were broken. I think fixing this stuff will a ton of rattles.
The outer head pipe is fixed and ready for the cat. The inner will be done tomorrow morning.
I thought I could just grind and cut down the bolt heads on all 8 catalytic converter bolts.
No luck. In scoring the bolts off I sliced into a head pipe with the grinder. Just went ahead and replaced the head pipes. Getting exhaust manifold bolts off was a pain, and trying to preserve the heat shield bolts on the oxygen sensors was hard.
All of the mounts and hangers for the head pipes were broken. I think fixing this stuff will a ton of rattles.
The outer head pipe is fixed and ready for the cat. The inner will be done tomorrow morning.
- Thread starter
- #265
All done!
I had to use hardware store bolts, but it’s all tighter and leak free going to the stock y pipe.
It’s running so much smoother. It finally settled into a 650rpm idle and doesn’t shake any more due to the blocked cat.
I’ll test drive it and let it cool then tighten it all back up.
Now, I have to get all the parts into the back of it for the 5 speed swap.
I had to use hardware store bolts, but it’s all tighter and leak free going to the stock y pipe.
It’s running so much smoother. It finally settled into a 650rpm idle and doesn’t shake any more due to the blocked cat.
I’ll test drive it and let it cool then tighten it all back up.
Now, I have to get all the parts into the back of it for the 5 speed swap.
Nice work - looks clean and satisfying that she's running better. Planning on removing the cat altogether from my 60 - having similar symptoms that you described.
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- #267
Feeling good.
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- #268
First drive with the truck and me not having to tell her “Be careful because xyz doesn’t work”.
She’s a trooper. It’s getting warm here and the princess wanted to go for a drive without AC.
This truck is seriously rewarding. Every day something gets better.
She’s a trooper. It’s getting warm here and the princess wanted to go for a drive without AC.
This truck is seriously rewarding. Every day something gets better.
Beautiful! (and the truck ain't so bad, either)
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- #271
Ac works! It held a vacuum and took 3 cans of 134a. It was converted in 2002.
The truck is terribly slow due to the automatic trying to suicide itself.
The truck is terribly slow due to the automatic trying to suicide itself.
BigHighBlue
GOLD Star
Looks great Alex, nice work!
TStro
SILVER Star
Before your swap I’d love to get together and compare the feel of your ride compared to mine. Mine is the only 62 I’ve ever driven. I’d love to get your input on mine as well.
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- #276
I’m calling the detail of grey gardens done. I can’t spend any more time on it, but it really needs another half day to get the last of the oxidation off.
Good enough for now. This is a lot of work. I see why people charge thousands of dollars for paint correction.
Good enough for now. This is a lot of work. I see why people charge thousands of dollars for paint correction.
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- #277
There’s a little haze on the rear and drivers side upper panels. An orange pad and v38 seems to work well.
It’s light years better than it was before. I don’t want to paint this truck, it’s got a lot of character to preserve.
It’s light years better than it was before. I don’t want to paint this truck, it’s got a lot of character to preserve.
If you are still driving it around, adjust the kickdown cable to get the shifts to firm up and hold gears a little longer. The FSM calls for an adjustment that makes them slow and early. Pull the throttle wide open and hold it. Adjust the kickdown cable so there is just a tiny bit of slack left with the throttle at wide open. Take it for a spin. If the shift points are too high, loosen it a little at a time. Mine has 300k of abuse on it and that has allowed it to make it another year without a rebuild or replacement.
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- #279
I tried that. It’s not the shifts any more. The transfer case is extremely loose and the input gear is making the worst noise it can.
It sounds like a massive gear lash and slop noise that only gets louder with drive time/temperature.
The split case is very likely in worse shape than the trans. With the contaminated fluid, I didn’t even think the transmission would make it this far. It’s actually amazed me. In a different world, I could see keeping the auto.
Can’t remember, did you get the long spline/McNamara gear from Georg?
