don't worry chicks dig scars 
Put a few in mine last week on a trail.
looking good and nice one getting it fixed.
Put a few in mine last week on a trail.
looking good and nice one getting it fixed.
FZJ-8-my wallet
- Thread starter jtmosca
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #142
In further news, I've decided to drag the LC in the 21st century with a upgraded radio unit. Between that and finally fixing the antennae mast, my family has agreed to ride with me again. Prior to that, the choices were a static-ridden NPR or "Delilah" and her random song dedications. I settled on the Pioneer AVH 2330NEX that Bestbuy had on sale and was offering free installation. Overall I'm reasonably happy. Having Carplay, Spotify, Navigation, DVD, and the ability to put in a backup camera feels good.
For some reason, I also feel compelled to hide my fancy new stereo. My idea is to reuse the face plate of the stock unit and find a way to temporarily attach it to the front of the new stereo if I'm parked somewhere sketchy. I've already harvested the buttons off the old unit and hot-glued them into place on the old faceplate. The next phase will be figuring out how to attach it:
I'll post up pics when I figure it out.
For some reason, I also feel compelled to hide my fancy new stereo. My idea is to reuse the face plate of the stock unit and find a way to temporarily attach it to the front of the new stereo if I'm parked somewhere sketchy. I've already harvested the buttons off the old unit and hot-glued them into place on the old faceplate. The next phase will be figuring out how to attach it:
I'll post up pics when I figure it out.
- Thread starter
- #143
And finally, I'm determined to address a cancerous rust spot happening on my DS rear wheel-well before it gets any worse. This, and both rear seat belt anchors (also in the rear wheel-wells) are the only known rust spots on the rig. Pics below:
It has been no small feat to find a body shop willing to tackle this. I'm determined to get it done right verses the bondo-approach. Most of the previously recommended shops in WS have switched to only insurance repair now. Tin Man in Thomasville told me that they are so backlogged that they aren't taking on any new jobs at the moment. Finally, the same friend who helped me with the dent told me to check with Miller Brothers Hot Rod Barn in Wilkesboro. They ain't cheap but they are at least up to the task if I decide to use them. They recommended that I find a donor vehicle (or new panel if I could find it), cut out a generous section, and then they could just cut what they might need from it to weld in a new corner. Below is a pic of my current LC and the section that they recommend I scavenge:
I've had no luck finding a new panel anywhere. One salvage yard offered to sell me the entire rear quarter of a donor vehicle for $500 (from the middle of the roof on over, and from the middle of the door sill to the rear bumper, etc.), but that feels like major overkill. However, I have found someone nearby here in NC that is willing to cut out approx what I may need on a rust free donor for about $150. Any other leads you guys think I should be following? Any other ideas?
It has been no small feat to find a body shop willing to tackle this. I'm determined to get it done right verses the bondo-approach. Most of the previously recommended shops in WS have switched to only insurance repair now. Tin Man in Thomasville told me that they are so backlogged that they aren't taking on any new jobs at the moment. Finally, the same friend who helped me with the dent told me to check with Miller Brothers Hot Rod Barn in Wilkesboro. They ain't cheap but they are at least up to the task if I decide to use them. They recommended that I find a donor vehicle (or new panel if I could find it), cut out a generous section, and then they could just cut what they might need from it to weld in a new corner. Below is a pic of my current LC and the section that they recommend I scavenge:
I've had no luck finding a new panel anywhere. One salvage yard offered to sell me the entire rear quarter of a donor vehicle for $500 (from the middle of the roof on over, and from the middle of the door sill to the rear bumper, etc.), but that feels like major overkill. However, I have found someone nearby here in NC that is willing to cut out approx what I may need on a rust free donor for about $150. Any other leads you guys think I should be following? Any other ideas?
I find you that piece depending on how dep i have to go. We are trying to save the floor panel for somebody’s 55
jfz80
Cruisin’
Sounds like a good lead..... Think i sold KYbishop on here the exact same section off my rig for $100. Cant remember if S/H was included or not but he knocked it out and was happy.
contact this guy too... even maybe offer to help but hes become more proficient at pull/process lately
Land cruiser parts
unfortunately mine is starting to look the same but no bubbles. IF me id wire brush that down and see what you got. Maybe a panel pounder and just roll our a radius to match and only do a 6x6'' section at bottom? it just doesnt look rottten rotten yet.
contact this guy too... even maybe offer to help but hes become more proficient at pull/process lately
Land cruiser parts
unfortunately mine is starting to look the same but no bubbles. IF me id wire brush that down and see what you got. Maybe a panel pounder and just roll our a radius to match and only do a 6x6'' section at bottom? it just doesnt look rottten rotten yet.
I have one of those on a shell with other parts that are bad
- Thread starter
- #147
The body shop mentioned going in 6 inches, but realistically they may not need that much. They just want to have way more than they need so they can have their bases covered.
- Thread starter
- #148
lol, That guy in Asheboro is source I mentioned above asking $150. He seemed to want to cut it out himself.
That's a good idea. I should probably dig into it a little closer myself so that perhaps I could get a better estimate of what I might need.
...thanks for the responses / suggestions guys!
- Thread starter
- #150
A friend of a friend may have found me a good body-repairman that’s actually local and a perfectionist with auto-body welding and rust-removal. I’m gonna have him check things out before I pull the trigger and have anything cut off of a donor.
In the meantime, I installed the backup camera for the new headunit and setup a flush mount USB input for CarPlay/etc. pics below
In the meantime, I installed the backup camera for the new headunit and setup a flush mount USB input for CarPlay/etc. pics below
Let me know how it goes. At some point, my 40 will need the rust that's bubbling up cut out and repaired.
- Thread starter
- #152
Just installed the new tailgate storage from Haracan on my 80. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Pics and details of the install below:
Top to Bottom:
Top - Factory carpet prior to removal
Middle - Factory carpet panel removed
Bottom - After section was cut out
Clockwise:
- Cheap Cut-Off Wheels that worked quite well
- Cutting through the metal with old skill saw and cheap cut-off wheels referenced above
- Drilling out the corners for a rounded transition
- Drilling out the spot welds to remove a support piece
Left - after it was cut out and cleaned
Right - after I had carefully filed down all the edges, primed the raw metal, and primed the inside (just for the heck of it).
Left - I decided to reuse my carpet panel and install it over top of the metal to give everything a more factory look. In this pic I had carefully drawn out the pattern and I was beginning to cut out the panel sections, all the while making sure not to cut the "hinge" side of the carpet.
Right - A pic once the outer edges of the panel were bolted down / attached (using the method in the next set of pics), but before I had installed the latches through inner panel.
Clockwise:
- Decided to use the existing holes in the carpet panel to attach it over top of the metal
- Cut tiny slits in the carpet so that I could fit the tip of the screwdriver through the carpet and tighten the bolts
- Used Velcro to attach the carpet to the panel near all the cuts that I added
- How the latches look after everything was tightened down.
Top to Bottom:
Top - Factory carpet prior to removal
Middle - Factory carpet panel removed
Bottom - After section was cut out
Clockwise:
- Cheap Cut-Off Wheels that worked quite well
- Cutting through the metal with old skill saw and cheap cut-off wheels referenced above
- Drilling out the corners for a rounded transition
- Drilling out the spot welds to remove a support piece
Left - after it was cut out and cleaned
Right - after I had carefully filed down all the edges, primed the raw metal, and primed the inside (just for the heck of it).
Left - I decided to reuse my carpet panel and install it over top of the metal to give everything a more factory look. In this pic I had carefully drawn out the pattern and I was beginning to cut out the panel sections, all the while making sure not to cut the "hinge" side of the carpet.
Right - A pic once the outer edges of the panel were bolted down / attached (using the method in the next set of pics), but before I had installed the latches through inner panel.
Clockwise:
- Decided to use the existing holes in the carpet panel to attach it over top of the metal
- Cut tiny slits in the carpet so that I could fit the tip of the screwdriver through the carpet and tighten the bolts
- Used Velcro to attach the carpet to the panel near all the cuts that I added
- How the latches look after everything was tightened down.
- Thread starter
- #153
more of my shenanigans...
My installation crew backing me up in full safety gear:
Final result:
My installation crew backing me up in full safety gear:
Final result:
Last edited:
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #156
I decided it was time for a subtle face-lift on the old girl.
- I purchased the brushed metal TEQ emblem to replace the gold sombrero bling.
- I moved my smaller TEQ emblem off the grill to the top of the Prinsu roof rack
- I purchased the clear turn signal and side marker lights off of ebay. They are aftermarket Chinese products so I still need to work with the fitment a little but overall it gives me the look I was going for.
Definitely a more modern look. I like the cleaner lines and clear gels.
You can pull the stock corner light trim rings and replace the bling chrome ones for a better fit.
Replace with what? We need details. I think Sarah will want this on her LX.
The blingy depo corner light trim doesn’t fit the fender hole very well. Take it off and use the trim from the stock orange corner light. It screws on/off with a couple of screws on back of the light housing.
