FZJ-8-my wallet (1 Viewer)

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I want to know one thing: How was the omelet and bacon? I count 21 broken eggs there.
 
Your bolts have a spec for a reason. When torqued, they will stretch a bit and apply a holding force in your head. This stretch should be within the elastic range of the metal (once load is removed they will return to their original state). If the were longer or thinner than spec, that would indicate they had somehow or another gone past elastic deformation to plastic deformation. Plastic deformation occurs when the metal has been stressed beyond its yield strength. If that has occurred, they will no longer hold properly and should be replaced.
I've heard people talk of the need to replace due to thermal cycling, but that is bunk. If your engine ever got hot enough to aneal your head bolts, you'd have much bigger problems than your head bolts.
If you change them out, you can be (almost) certain they're good, but I don't think it's worth the cash.
 
Another $210+ decision to make. At this rate, I may need to rename this thread, FZJ-8-my 401k

Land Cruisers are pay-to-play if going with OEM parts. Your truck was originally a $58K vehicle in 1997. The quicker one accepts that the better things are.

Otherwise, buy a Corolla.

Nice to see you making progress.
 
I want to know one thing: How was the omelet and bacon? I count 21 broken eggs there.

It was delicious ! I add a dollop of sour cream before I fold the omelette.
 
Thus the word Opinion. I am working on customer's vehicles, I wont risk bad head bolts.
I totally get it. I am more cautious with judgement calls that affect my clients vs judgment calls that only affect myself. If I was working on this for someone else I would absolutely go with new bolts.

But since it's for my own rig and coming out of my own wallet it's a harder decision for me. As you probably gathered from earlier posts I had just spent A TON on the LC just before this whole HG fiasco. Nevertheless, I do appreciate everyone's input. Thank you!
 
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So when I dropped off the head at the shop I basically ordered "the works", decked, dipped, valve job, supersize it, and a side of fries. While I'm waiting to get it back, I was curious what all a valve job really included. So I went looking for a valve adjustment 101 video and I ran across the following:



I did in fact learn a numbers things, but what I really took away from it was the following:
  • 1:20 - DO NOT DROP THE TIMING GEAR
  • 1:33 - DO NOT DROP THE TIMING GEAR
  • 9:24 - DO NOT DROP THE VALVE SHIM
  • 11:33 - DO NOT DROP THE PRECISION CALIPER
LOL :)

(FYI - I'm not making fun of the guy, I appreciate anyone who will take the time to post an instructional video, but he did crack me up a little!)
 
When I was training at MMI in Phoenix, I was doing a valve adjustment on a Suzuki Oil cooled GS motor that had shim over bucket valves. The rocker arms had a little spring that held the rocker arm I n place over the bucket. I had pushed an arm aside and had just plucked a shim out of the bucket when my thumb slipped. The rocker arm shot back and smacked the shim off my magnet. I watched in horror as that little bastard dropped down the cam chain tower to the bottom of the engine.
DONT DROP ANYTHING.
 
Head is back from the shop. :clap: No problems, no concerns, minimal shaving necessary, no significant warping to speak of.
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Time to start scrubbing. I’m using small sections of kitchen sponges to plug most small holes.
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Close up example of the inside of one of my cylinder walls. I think they look pretty good. Occasionally my fingernail will catch the slightest of ridges, but overall they feel completely smooth.
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How does one go to the bathroom in a timely manner when one's jeans are fastened from the rear like that? I mean, in the world of Taco Bell....that could be embarassingly fatal...
 

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