FJ62 hasn't ran in 10+ years-Need advice

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post a pic of the line you need. I have a couple line sets not sure which rig they came from. also I forgot to get you those pics of the tank lines, so I'll try to get those posted today.
 
The only pic of the tank I have with lines on it is this one. Does it pretty much go back like they are laid out in the pic?

Also, this is the ATF coolant line I need. From lower Pass Side, over to Driver Side Radiator (32941A) the hand written number should be Toyota parts #.

IMG_2681.webp
 
Yep, Toyota made it easy - there's only one way to go due to the different sizes. Just finished installing my fuel tank at 10:30 last night out in the driveway, including those lines.
 
Little update:

More parts have come off than parts gone back on. Got the tank back in with a new fuel pump. I swapped out all the soft rubber lines since many were old and cracked.

In the process of replacing fuel filter, the mounting bracket tension bolt snapped in half. Still have to drill it out to try and reuse the mount.

Found a giant crack in radiator, so ordered a new CSF replacement. Picked up an Aux tranny oil cooler that will go in once the radiator is back in place.

Grill and headlamp assembly's got pulled out and I'll clean em, paint em black and reinstall. Prolly gonna pull the alternator to confirm it's still good before I put everything back together.

Once it's all done, just need to swap plugs, cap, rotor etc and put in a new battery. And pray that compression is good enough to keep for s while without a rebuild/swap.

Just need more days in the week and hours in the day so I can put it together. Any advice before it all goes back in?
 
Sounds good, I think you have it under control. Looking forward to seeing it on the road!

I don't remember if you did the tranny fluid and filter, but if not do that one too. Maybe the transfer case and diffs while you are at it.

For the small amount of money you'd be smart to do them all. Also check your u joints for play. Maybe grease up any of the suspension parts that have lube points.

Since fluids are cheap, brake bleed/fluid change.
 
Mayday! Mayday!

Just pulled the thermostats housing and found this..... what is it and how screwed am I?

Keep in mind this has sat for 11 years, and to my knowledge it was parked because of a blower tranny cooler hose.

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IMG_2943.webp
 
Lower radiator hose looked ok. Little rusty water, but nothing special. Radiator was essentially empty. Had a big crack in the bottom, at the tranny cooler hose-bracket.
 
Little update:

In the process of replacing fuel filter, the mounting bracket tension bolt snapped in half. Still have to drill it out to try and reuse the mount...

Good luck, and note that a new bracket is not available in US anymore. Member ToyotaMatt may be able to source one from Japan if you need. Cruiser parts.net has used for $325.

That looks like a lot of corrosion in your thermostat housing. :eek:
 
Since the radiator is out, should I pull the block drain plug and flush it all out? If so, where should I start pouring water/coolant/cleaner?? I guess my question is where should I pour fluid, in order for it to circulate through if the motor doesn't currently run.
 
I've flushed from he upper rad hose port backwards so you get flow out of the lower rad hose.

I have no idea if this is the best way to do it, I thought it worked with "gravity" best.

You could also pull the top coolant hose (feeds front heater core) and flush that way.
 
Consider this - temporarily fix the old cracked radiator with JB Weld, reinstall, start the truck and flush, and when you're all done, then install the new radiator. I don't think you'll accomplish much by trying to flush the block on a cold, non-running engine, as flushing agents (such as they are) need heat and circulation to work. Modern 'cooling system flush' products are pretty lame, IMO. The old nasty acidic ones are (I think) no longer sold. You clearly have a mess inside there.

Even if not running, you should remove the block drain plug (likely the block will the clogged with scale behind it, so bash out the scale with a screwdriver) and flush some water through the block. You'll want the block drain open anyway, so you can do that now.
 
Ok, been out of town for the past few weeks.

I was able to test compression, although numbers look a little off to me. I had put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders a few weeks ago, so I guess this counts as more of a 'WET' test.

1988 FJ62 336,037 miles
#1 172PSI
#2 135 PSI
#3 160 PSI
#4 125 PSI
#5 155 PSI
#6 170 PSI

Aside from number four, numbers don't look terrible. Granted, this is essentially a wet test. Advice is appreciated, but looking at this now, I will probably just do a full tune up, flush the block and install my new radiator.
 
Ok, been out of town for the past few weeks.

I was able to test compression, although numbers look a little off to me. I had put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders a few weeks ago, so I guess this counts as more of a 'WET' test.

1988 FJ62 336,037 miles
#1 172PSI
#2 135 PSI
#3 160 PSI
#4 125 PSI
#5 155 PSI
#6 170 PSI

Aside from number four, numbers don't look terrible. Granted, this is essentially a wet test. Advice is appreciated, but looking at this now, I will probably just do a full tune up, flush the block and install my new radiator.
I've got a video of the motor turning over , but for some reason it won't compress enough from my phone to upload
 
Update:

Got the motor running, brand new radiator, hoses, thermostat, new trans-rad cooler lines, installed aux tranny cooler. Put some of the interior back together, had to pull out nasty carpet from cargo area and front floorboards.

Took her on a 5 mile cruise after I put some 1.5" wheel spacers and a set of wheels and tires from a 99 4Runner in the mean time.

I've bought a bunch of stuff from Ruff Stuff to do a SOA w/ stock front FJ62 springs and some 63" Chevy 2500 springs. I just need a high steer setup and some shocks/hoops and I can get this baby built.
 
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