FJ55 f engine Carb tune issues (2 Viewers)

[ToyotaMatt]

I think my battery impact drill with these will work

Impact Rated Hex Shank Socket Driver Set, 3 Pack

Amazing deals on this 3Pc, Impact Rated Hex Shank Socket Driver Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I'll report back w progress. Thanks!

This is all u need :

This is the EXACT kit set up I use in my 2nd tech video I PM you

After my full size only torch runs out of gas . , I switch up to this below

This is a TOP SELF kit and solid quality , note the YELLOW bottle is NOT propane , it’s MAPP gas …


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[Tomba]

yep, I borrowed a tank of MAPP but ran out and ACE only has propaner but I'll pick up some MAPP per your suggestion.. having the auto igniter is nice

 

[Tomba]

OK,. Back at it. I managed to remove the manifold to solve vac leaks and have a few questions. I am assuming the stud stuck on the manifold will come out w/ heat and slow removal via vice grips.



The lip of the exhaust pipe that attaches to the flange is cracked.(see pic) Best to remove and have that piece and have one made? or are these available ?

Also, for an OEM exhaust gasket. I know there are varrying opinions but thoughts on gasket seaker? install dry and torque to factory spec? looks like my heat sensor is stuck in the open position so sounds like I am good to just replace the gasket and reinstall same ....

Welcome to suggestions

Thanks-

 

[Tomba]

conformation/advice needed on next steps. ok Fixed all of the vac leaks but still only seeing gas come from the primary and not the idle channel. I advanced the dizzy a but but still not able to lower the idle below 800 w/o engine cutting out. Is the next step to remove the carb and clean out the idle channel or is there another step I can take to see if I can get the idle to work/ vacuum to increase? vac reading is still below 15

 

[Tomba]

Replacing the olive/ compression nut on the original fuel line into the Fuel pump. Appears the original one had a crimp on the line to keep the olive in place. should I cut the line or file off the old olive to replace?

Thanks-

 

[Casey E]

As the nut is tightened they crimp down, you would need to cut it off and order another one, or split it with something so you don’t shorten the line. I forget where to buy those but I know they were cheap and plentiful….

To be honest the thing should work just how it is, I wouldn’t mess with it, unless you noticed it leaking.

 

[Tomba]

As the nut is tightened they crimp down, you would need to cut it off and order another one, or split it with something so you don’t shorten the line. I forget where to buy those but I know they were cheap and plentiful….

To be honest the thing should work just how it is, I wouldn’t mess with it, unless you noticed it leaking.

Thanks. Yeah, I already had a new one but it wasn't leaking so could have re-used. I ended up cutting it then pushing on the new olive and nut.
Gas not coming up to the filters yet... just rebuilt the fuel pump too, charging bat now.

 

[Tomba]

Fuel pump: Removed the FP again as I had a internal gasket placed incorrectly. I reinstalled it and still, no fuel pulling to the carb. Noticed a bit of wear on the actuator arm. I also attached a pic of part of the cam lobe. I verified the pump works by manually pushing the arm in. The fuel pump is an original Kyosan Denki that I rebuilt. *This is an Early model no spacer

Could the lobe be worn? maybe time for an electronic FP...

Thoughts??

 

[Casey E]

They take quite some time to get primed, I have often wondered why. FYI, all looks good.

 

[Tomba]

I did siphon the gas up to the carb tho...and added about 6 gallons of gas to make sure I had enough.

 

[Casey E]

I did siphon the gas up to the carb tho...and added about 6 gallons of gas to make sure I had enough.

Not sure to be honest, I know the OEM pumps are damn near built proof, I’d never go electronic on a stock motor. Order a new pump from Cityracer .

 

[Tomba]

Not sure to be honest, I know the OEM pumps are damn near built proof, I’d never go electronic on a stock motor. Order a new pump from Cityracer .

I think its the valve on the intake side. Mine are stamped in so I cant remove them. the kit i bought did come with replacements. I'll check cityracer

 

[Tomba]

Solved that Fuel Pump issue with a new used FP. She starts and runs now but carb still giving me issues/headaches. Vacuum reads low (10). zero vac leaks that I can find. I took the carb apart and blew out the idle channel too which, didn't seem to solve the issue. fuel still coming from the primary, not the idle channel.
The carb only has a few hundred miles on it too. Sounds like its gotta come off again.

frustrating as F.

 

[Tomba]

advanced the timing a bit more to get more vac, now its at 12. I unplugged a vac line and it does die. I can idle at about 840-900 rpms w/o choke but gas still from the primary.
no evidence of a vac leak. maybe a cracked intake manifold? i didn't see one what I had it off for the gasket repair.
Any ideas ????

 

[Pighead]

Any ideas ????

My base timing is 22*Btdc...

 

[Tomba]

My base timing is 22*Btdc...

@Pighead what is that an indication of? I mean, why do you have to advance it so for? Maybe I should try that. Not familiar on how to use the timing light to measure how far advanced I am , have to read up on that. So did you keep advancing because of low vacuum or another reason?

 

[Tomba]

Well that certainly worked to increase vacuum! Now its just above 15 but need to adjust idle down. More tomorrow. Hoping that's enough to get the idle channel to work .

 

[Pighead]

@Pighead what is that an indication of? I mean, why do you have to advance it so for? Maybe I should try that. Not familiar on how to use the timing light to measure how far advanced I am , have to read up on that. So did you keep advancing because of low vacuum or another reason?

I don't know why it works. For a long time before i got the fancy timing light, i timed by vacuum gauge. Advanced timing for best vacuum then backed off a bit if it pinged. I don't need to advance that far, it just runs better when i do.
My engine not quite stock.

 

[Pighead]

Well that certainly worked to increase vacuum! Now its just above 15 but need to adjust idle down. More tomorrow. Hoping that's enough to get the idle channel to work .

Yup, advance timing and idle speed increases. Turn out idle speed screw to bring idle down. Repeat until it's where you want it.

 

[Tomba]

Yup, advance timing and idle speed increases. Turn out idle speed screw to bring idle down. Repeat until it's where you want it.

ok, so I did that and got the idle to where i need it (700rpm ) w/ vacuum at 15. So happens that the primary is still delivering the fuel and not the idle channel. I did notice that I have a vacuum sound that wasn't happening before. The timing was actually retarded and when I thought I was too far advanced I was actually approaching 7 BTDC and ended up at about 9-10 BTDC. That said, does this mean that my issue is in fact a clogged idle channel? other than that seems to run better then it has since I bought it.