- Thread starter
- #121
There is a member here that makes custom plates. His name here is SMG. He commented on the previous page of this thread. Hit him up if you want a custom plate. Thats who made mine, I don't have a pic of it yet completed.
Builds Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build
- Thread starter White Stripe
- Start date
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I still have a few about. Depending the height of your TBI adapter it may work. Cutting it down is easier than stretching. They are about 3 1/4" tall
- Thread starter
- #123
How much for that spacer?I still have a few about. Depending the height of your TBI adapter it may work. Cutting it down is easier than stretching. They are about 3 1/4" tall
40.00 will cover the spacer plus shipping within the US
Sub'd. Really liking your build. I'm just getting started and doing some long-term planning. Considering SUA vs SOA- prefer the flex of the latter and simplicity of the former. Seeing how much flex you get makes me think I can definitely stay SUA. What springs are you using up front to get that kind of travel?
- Thread starter
- #126
Thanks man. They are Alcan 5 or 5.5" lift springs. The short side is stock short side length, the long side of the leaf pack is 3" longer than stock. Basically similar dimensions as fj60 rear lift springs except more arch to get more height. The only thing that sucks is they retained the fj40 bushing size in the springs, I wish they did fj60 size eyes in the springs. I go through bushings on the shackle side about once a year. I actually wish I had the johnny joint eyes put in instead in the springs but couldn't afford it in the time. The 2" body lift allows for more up travel without cutting the fenders. It is stable, hooks up well on climbs, and I didn't have to modify my steering too much. Would I do it again? I don't know, I am about 50/50 on that. It would be nice to have a little more softer ride of flat springs up front. But it wheels fine enough to not really change much at this point.
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- Thread starter
- #127
jim land
SILVER Star
side pic please 
Who has these?
- Thread starter
- #130
They are made by us wheel. I got them through summit. Stockton wheel makes them too.
DSB345
SILVER Star
That's impressive!
DSB345
SILVER Star
You've been busy since I've been gone.
- Thread starter
- #133
Side pic. 15x8" 2.5" backspacing
- Thread starter
- #134
Thanks man. Haha guess I have been a bit busy. I just chip away at it. Better than watching TV when I'm bored.
Chiming in late on this. Yup, we've got them in stock!
- Thread starter
- #136
Been working on my bead locks. The corrosion is from one drive on winter streets with mag chloride. Its a little easier on metal than salt, but not great. I couldn't wash it off for about a week or 2 because I had to wait for the snow to melt on the streets so I could get to the car wash. Before...
Painted underneath the ring...
All done...
I have been using por15 chassis black and por15 clear coat in a aerosol can. Seems like good stuff compared to the cheap aerosols Ive used in the past. Installing beadlocks has been a learning process. They are kind of a pain. They take a ton of wheel weight to balance. Initially I struggled with leaks. I tried adding silicone to the sealing area but that only helped a little. Then I ground the back side of the bead flat, since this is where it seals with a beadlock and the tires have ribs on the inside. This helped more. But still leaked. I like being able to hop in my cruiser and drive around town. It was a pain to air up every week or two. Then I tried installing heavy duty innertubes I found on ebay for like 30 bucks a piece. I used talcum powder to help them seat better.(Which its hard to get real talcum powder these days) This has worked really well and they never leak. It also prevents burping of the standard inner bead. If I move up to 37s Im worried about finding innertubes that will fit them. Stauns are far more expensive than the setup I have now, and probably isn't a option for my budget. I have done several trails with this setup and have had no issues.
I have been using por15 chassis black and por15 clear coat in a aerosol can. Seems like good stuff compared to the cheap aerosols Ive used in the past. Installing beadlocks has been a learning process. They are kind of a pain. They take a ton of wheel weight to balance. Initially I struggled with leaks. I tried adding silicone to the sealing area but that only helped a little. Then I ground the back side of the bead flat, since this is where it seals with a beadlock and the tires have ribs on the inside. This helped more. But still leaked. I like being able to hop in my cruiser and drive around town. It was a pain to air up every week or two. Then I tried installing heavy duty innertubes I found on ebay for like 30 bucks a piece. I used talcum powder to help them seat better.(Which its hard to get real talcum powder these days) This has worked really well and they never leak. It also prevents burping of the standard inner bead. If I move up to 37s Im worried about finding innertubes that will fit them. Stauns are far more expensive than the setup I have now, and probably isn't a option for my budget. I have done several trails with this setup and have had no issues.
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How are you liking the 5* caster on the road? Im fixing to cut and turn my junk soon and need to figure out where to set it.
D
D
- Thread starter
- #139
I feel like it's a little too much. Offroad my steering gets really hot since the more caster you have you are somewhat lifting the front of the vehicle when u turn. I added a mega steering cooler to alleviate this. I also was getting some death wobble on the street. Balancing the tires, tightening up some loose components, and adding a steering stabilizer helped. But sometimes it still feels like it wants to death wobble at certain speed-as if it's on the verge of it. I think I would shoot for 3 degrees if I did it again.
- Thread starter
- #140
So in cold weather I have felt the motor chugging during load as if the timing isn't advanced enough. Once warmed up its fine. So I went into the spark table and added more timing advance in the temperature vs advance table since you typically want more timing advance the colder the engine is. I also added timing in the main spark table below 2000 rpm during somewhat heavy load (60kPa - 80kPa) I never hit 100kPa or 0 vacuum at my elevation, so I didn't touch above 80 although I should have while in there. So far it's running much better, especially when semi lugging the motor. I will have toward for a cold morning start to really confirm how well it worked.
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