cruiserkreutz
SILVER Star
I'm normally a strict OEM replacement guy. That being said, I replaced my original 40+ year old hood hooks with the CCOT black powder coated units and am very pleased with them.
Builds Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build
- Thread starter White Stripe
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I'm normally a strict OEM replacement guy. That being said, I replaced my original 40+ year old hood hooks with the CCOT black powder coated units and am very pleased with them.
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- #102
Thanks man I'll check them out!
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- #103
So I've been trying to convert my ammeter to a voltmeter. I just used a 2" round gauge, took it out of the housing, painted over any aftermarket brand labels on the gauge face, drilled new mounting holes on the back of the cluster, and extended the round background with painted black plastic sheet from a plastic container. This is my third try. First gauge didn't work, I must have damaged it during install. Second gauge was not accurate at all. This is my third try, it's a nice autometer gauge. This should do it...
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Why did you get rid of the ammeter? Much more useful than a voltmeter. And digital voltmeters are like $6 on ebay for waterproof ones. I think the ammeter is electrically, one of the most useful features of an early 40.
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- #105
To run a bigger alternator to keep up better with winching.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That's an easy work around. You hardly ever winch. But an ammeter is always good. You know where the power is flowing in your system. A volt meter is dumb. It just shows the instantaneous voltage in the system.
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- #107
An easy work around? I winch a lot, especially in deep snow. What's the easy work around?
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- #109
Thanks man I appreciate the feedback!
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- #110
Since I had the cluster out, I have had a hand throttle sitting around and thought I'd use it. I got it from AW Direct. I had been using my old choke cable as a hand throttle since I have existed but it kept pulling out going down the road. This new one u pull to desired position, then twist knob and it locks it in position....
First thing I did was grind a flat spot so it fit in the factory choke hole. Be careful not to get it hot or you'll melt the plastic cable liner.
It comes with 10 feet of cable, so I cut it down with a small metal cutting disc.
First thing I did was grind a flat spot so it fit in the factory choke hole. Be careful not to get it hot or you'll melt the plastic cable liner.
It comes with 10 feet of cable, so I cut it down with a small metal cutting disc.
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- #111
Here it is installed. The end is a black T handle, I removed half the T to clear my gauge pod I made a while ago. Ran out of time to connect it to the throttle in the engine compartment buy that is pretty easy .
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- #112
Got the other end hooked up of the hand throttle. Also repaired my fresh pull knob, the plastic sleeve came pulled out of the knob so I shoved it back in a crimped it better. I also put my cluster back in. Voltmeter works great!
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- #114
It's been a long time since I did that. (Like 2001)I think I used a coffee can, cut it to the right length, put it on the throttle body, mounted the air cleaner, traced the needed hole. Then used the coffee can as a model, and made it out of thicker steel . 4+ products sells a nice adapter that looks much cleaner than what I did.
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- #115
Here's a pic of my dash plate design...
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- #116
So I had some huge stereo cable I got from a h2 that we were sending to auction and thought it would make great starter wire. Here's old and new...
Also my optima battery was dead, so I put it on the charger for a couple hours. It's rated for 750CCA, fully charged it's testing out to only have 550CCA. I think this batteries days are numbered. Maybe I'll get a odyssey or something this time around.
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- #117
Also I got some new bibb insulators from Toyota. At the hardware store I got these cool galvanized washers with a slight concave and a rubber backing. I pain't ed the galvanized part black so it wouldn't oxidize and look better...
Haven't checked your thread in a while. A couple months ago you said you might be looking for a longer front spline on the D/S.
Joint Fuji makes the same slip assembly in an 8" travel . The 80 series is typically about 6", The kit comes with everything to replace the
slip side. The tube diameter is the same for all cruisers, 40,60, 80, etc. The high angle flanges should be the same. The kit is
part # FTL-35050x.
AllPro sells them but I believe Georg and Kurt have access also. The US distributor is All Automotive Import Export.
The big advantage of these as you know is the increase in u-joint articulation. Stock is about 24~27 degrees. This u-joint , found in the front shafts or the 80 series, Toyota Tacomas and other newer Toyotas has 45 degrees of angle before bind.
The truck looks awesome. Great job
Joint Fuji makes the same slip assembly in an 8" travel . The 80 series is typically about 6", The kit comes with everything to replace the
slip side. The tube diameter is the same for all cruisers, 40,60, 80, etc. The high angle flanges should be the same. The kit is
part # FTL-35050x.
AllPro sells them but I believe Georg and Kurt have access also. The US distributor is All Automotive Import Export.
The big advantage of these as you know is the increase in u-joint articulation. Stock is about 24~27 degrees. This u-joint , found in the front shafts or the 80 series, Toyota Tacomas and other newer Toyotas has 45 degrees of angle before bind.
The truck looks awesome. Great job
If you make a nice plate like you sketched up post some pics.
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- #120
Thank you sir I will check it out. My front home made shaft has the 6 inches of slip and I pretty much max it out and is why I haven't extended the shock towers or the shaft would pull apart. 8" would would be great.
New dash plate instructions from SMG. I really tried to make the new instructions sound like legit Toyota words...
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