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- #181
How tight do I torque these? I did until the spring washer became flat... Not sure though. The colour bursting is because point on a bushing...
Build First Vehicle to work on - FJ40
- Thread starter PidgeonGuggolo
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- first fj40 restoration work
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The shock has to be able to move/rotate with flexion. Castle nut just to hold in place. Not too tight.
I usually tighten down the nuts until the bottom out, then back off a bit to line up for the cutter pin.
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- #184
Hmm I don't have a whole for a pin
it's what came with the car... I wondered how it made sure they don't vibrate off. I think it's OEM though. Not sure.
The factory mount is a shoulder bolt with a hole in the threads for a cotter pin. You could use a nylock or some other lock nut. If your pin doesn't have a shoulder on it then disregard my bottoming out statement and snug up pretty good. You might just need a castle nut.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Do you/are you using the factory service manual? All the details you need are in there.
If you read it, you would find it is 37-41ft/lbs for the shock nuts.
Cotter pins are used on earlier trucks, ending October 1977 (stateside) afterwards they are standard nut/lock washer/bolt. Now this may not totally apply to your chassis, as I don't know the exact version BUT, if it doesn't have a hole for a cotter, you know your answer.
If you read it, you would find it is 37-41ft/lbs for the shock nuts.
Cotter pins are used on earlier trucks, ending October 1977 (stateside) afterwards they are standard nut/lock washer/bolt. Now this may not totally apply to your chassis, as I don't know the exact version BUT, if it doesn't have a hole for a cotter, you know your answer.
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- Thread starter
- #187
I browsed through it but didn't find it. Thanks Sir! I'll look longer next time.
- Thread starter
- #188
Okay I found out there is another service manual which has front axle & suspension. Not just front axle. Nice. But it has so much about the 60 series I neglected it at first because I didn't see fj40 drawings.
So suspensions mounted with the correct torque. It squeezed the bushings even further but it looks good.
Another paint session done after in realised the knuckle is naked on the back. Tomorrow black coating.
And now I finally have a welding cart
shop is quite competent I think.
So suspensions mounted with the correct torque. It squeezed the bushings even further but it looks good.
Another paint session done after in realised the knuckle is naked on the back. Tomorrow black coating.
And now I finally have a welding cart
shop is quite competent I think.
- Thread starter
- #189
Got the parts to continue. But still sometimes big gaps in me understanding the Manual. How tight must this bell crank nut behind the backing plate be? Or in other words this wire which pulls the adjuster? I can't find anything about it.
And guess who put the shoe strut on the wrong side?
Getting a bit done week by week.
And guess who put the shoe strut on the wrong side?
Getting a bit done week by week.
- Thread starter
- #190
Slowly but steadily.
Had to take it apart again because I forgot to grease a seal... Still always getting 7.5 kg preload on both sides. I figured it might be cold bearing grease. I don't know... But there is no wobble or wiggle and it's turning quite okay. So I went with it. No idea how this should work otherwise. Maybe they had different grease back then. Packed the hub with 1 cm thick layer around. Couldn't find anything in the Manual.
I'm a bit pissed at myself currently. The paint which I thought is rock solid chips off at the flange and also at the rear axle where the collar sits. I don't know why. I use epoxy Zink primär and 2 black PUR coats. I sure hope that axle and differential hold up with the colour well. So much work went into this. But I'm a noob with these things so still trying to find the mistakes.
Had to take it apart again because I forgot to grease a seal... Still always getting 7.5 kg preload on both sides. I figured it might be cold bearing grease. I don't know... But there is no wobble or wiggle and it's turning quite okay. So I went with it. No idea how this should work otherwise. Maybe they had different grease back then. Packed the hub with 1 cm thick layer around. Couldn't find anything in the Manual.
I'm a bit pissed at myself currently. The paint which I thought is rock solid chips off at the flange and also at the rear axle where the collar sits. I don't know why. I use epoxy Zink primär and 2 black PUR coats. I sure hope that axle and differential hold up with the colour well. So much work went into this. But I'm a noob with these things so still trying to find the mistakes.
- Thread starter
- #191
Today was a good day. Major milestone for me. Rear tires on. Drums and everything in. Very light sound of touching shoes. So I think that's a good start to the brake journey!
I then tried to put the shocks in but I can't. Is it normal that they are too short when there is no weight on top? I could use a ratchet to get the axle closer to the frame but then it would be pulling on these shocks. Not sure if this is to be expected as long as there is no motor in etc...
I then tried to put the shocks in but I can't. Is it normal that they are too short when there is no weight on top? I could use a ratchet to get the axle closer to the frame but then it would be pulling on these shocks. Not sure if this is to be expected as long as there is no motor in etc...
- Thread starter
- #192
Going after the transmission/transfer case seal. Will replace most of the seals. From old images it looks like the plugs leak, but I am just not sure... Gaskets and seals are on the way.
Few hours of sandblasting and some coats later. I think it's now a better paint job but the finish is not yet what I hope for. It's a bit wrinkled like orange skin... Surface was well prepared.
I just saw another post by someone who lifted the car, discussing about the mount of the shocks. Will I face issues with the shock setup when it expands on one side too much? Since I can't mount them without the motor in etc. the gap is too wide.
Few hours of sandblasting and some coats later. I think it's now a better paint job but the finish is not yet what I hope for. It's a bit wrinkled like orange skin... Surface was well prepared.
I just saw another post by someone who lifted the car, discussing about the mount of the shocks. Will I face issues with the shock setup when it expands on one side too much? Since I can't mount them without the motor in etc. the gap is too wide.
- Thread starter
- #193
Can someone help me out with this section here? I thought here sits the breather plug...
It should be a T fitting held in place by a hollow bolt that doubles as a breather.
- Thread starter
- #195
Thanks, got an order for a Nissan part. Let's see if this fits.
What's your guys take on plugs of the transfer and transmission. Should I replace them? I'll let the transfer be blasted with glas pellets and then coat it or passivate it.
No idea how to get them out and in and also not sure it's a necessity. I wanted to separate the transfer to replace the seals.