You can hook up the starter to run the dry/wet compression test while the engine is on the ground. A screw in tester works the best.
Build First Vehicle to work on - FJ40
- Thread starter PidgeonGuggolo
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- Thread starter
- #203
What about a leakdown test? Is this equal in the results? I have a bit respect to put the starter on it again since i have no idea how this would work properly but i would find out. Just trying to figure out if there is an alternative.
Leak down test is fine - takes more equipment. You will need to lock the engine as air pressure will blow the piston down and open a valve. I saw my current engine run sitting on the ground. Coffee can of gas with fuel hose in the fuel. + Jumper cable on starter with a wire to connect to the solenoid, ground cable connected to block.
You don't need to start it, you just need it to crank. Jumper cables, a battery, and a screwdriver will make it crank. A leak down test is more complicated. I would 1st adjust the valves. Has the engine been sitting for a while? Imo, a dry and wet test will get you going in the right direction. If you want more info do a leak down test. Or just rebuild the engine.
- Thread starter
- #206
Okay. The sound of reason is ringing from your answers. So I'll try cranking without fuel.
The engine was running for about 2 hours 2 years ago and sat 38 years in a shed before. I really hope not to rebuild it this is my first motor after the 2 strokes in my youth.
Good that I didn't get my bellhousing of today as planned. I read contradictory info about the oil here. While it said in the manual there should be no oil on the clutch disc or else its broken I read it's normal there is oil in the bell housing floor... I can't quite wrap my head around this as I think there is a gasket leaky if this happens, or not?
The engine was running for about 2 hours 2 years ago and sat 38 years in a shed before. I really hope not to rebuild it this is my first motor after the 2 strokes in my youth.
Good that I didn't get my bellhousing of today as planned. I read contradictory info about the oil here. While it said in the manual there should be no oil on the clutch disc or else its broken I read it's normal there is oil in the bell housing floor... I can't quite wrap my head around this as I think there is a gasket leaky if this happens, or not?
Rear main oil seal leaks. Speedy sleave is the answer not just a new oil seal. Inspect the cranks surface it will have a grove and leak, common. I just bought the sleave for the transfer case e-brake hub. Still need to figure out something for the front axle - each shaft has two groves were the seals worn into the flats.
That looks like the throw-out bearing hub is getting oil from the transmission more than the engine
- Thread starter
- #209
Heya
I did another test session. Took me a while. Who would have thought I don't have a spark plug nut. I forgot that I did lend that when I first pull them off. So after some back and forth (later a second time because I bought the wrong bolts for the engine stand) I finally got the compression test done.
Seems way better. And I have a possible explanation for 2, the whole plug was rusty. So it might have gotten some rust in there and the valves are not as fitting as needed. My question, here soak in some cylinder cleaning fluid and de ruster and then go ahead? Im somewhat quite ok with the result and still hope to not need to take it apart.
On the flywheel side of things. Is this flywheel still good? I don't know what to look for. I attached some screenshots. And till now I'm not sure where the oil is coming from. Because the transmission did actually look tight. But the big main seal also doesn't look bad.
One thing I noticed is the bolts of the flywheel were very oily and there was some oil drain there but not sure that explains the puddle.
Tomorrow I'm going to dismantle the oil pan. I hope no screw stays stuck.
And I took the frame out to see sunlight and wash and clean the garage. The dirtiest jobs are done so time to clean the tools and then get things nice again.
I did another test session. Took me a while. Who would have thought I don't have a spark plug nut. I forgot that I did lend that when I first pull them off. So after some back and forth (later a second time because I bought the wrong bolts for the engine stand) I finally got the compression test done.
Seems way better. And I have a possible explanation for 2, the whole plug was rusty. So it might have gotten some rust in there and the valves are not as fitting as needed. My question, here soak in some cylinder cleaning fluid and de ruster and then go ahead? Im somewhat quite ok with the result and still hope to not need to take it apart.
On the flywheel side of things. Is this flywheel still good? I don't know what to look for. I attached some screenshots. And till now I'm not sure where the oil is coming from. Because the transmission did actually look tight. But the big main seal also doesn't look bad.
One thing I noticed is the bolts of the flywheel were very oily and there was some oil drain there but not sure that explains the puddle.
Tomorrow I'm going to dismantle the oil pan. I hope no screw stays stuck.
And I took the frame out to see sunlight and wash and clean the garage. The dirtiest jobs are done so time to clean the tools and then get things nice again.
- Thread starter
- #210
More pics. Proud moments here.
It looks like there are some heat-spots on the flywheel, should be re-surfaced. Re-surfacing a flywheel is a common procedure, just about any machine shop can do it.