Finally I began my coil spring conversion!!
- Thread starter Francesco_from_Italy
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- Thread starter
- #42
I've got some big news...
Today I put on the frame attachments (is just a temporary welding, the good one has still to be done) and, done that, I wanted to try the flexibility on the axle; that's the result:
Right side compression:
Left side extension:
Front pic:
As you can see from the pics the compression (on the right wheel) is very good, even better than with the SPOA.
The problem is the extension: the axle goes only a few centimetres down (measurement taken from the shock) when with the SPOA it went more than 10/12 centimetres down; is that becouse there is not the coil still? Or maybe becouse during the normal drive the powers lying on the axle are different...
Anyway, what do you think about the job untill now?
Francesco
Today I put on the frame attachments (is just a temporary welding, the good one has still to be done) and, done that, I wanted to try the flexibility on the axle; that's the result:
Right side compression:
Left side extension:
Front pic:
As you can see from the pics the compression (on the right wheel) is very good, even better than with the SPOA.
The problem is the extension: the axle goes only a few centimetres down (measurement taken from the shock) when with the SPOA it went more than 10/12 centimetres down; is that becouse there is not the coil still? Or maybe becouse during the normal drive the powers lying on the axle are different...
Anyway, what do you think about the job untill now?
Francesco
PH and DL
I have asked several people and I am not sure what to think. I know that the PH and DL are supposed to be as close to level as possible, but should you make a PH that is level even if it doesn't parallel the DL?
Pic of my situation:
Thanks,
Ryan.
I have asked several people and I am not sure what to think. I know that the PH and DL are supposed to be as close to level as possible, but should you make a PH that is level even if it doesn't parallel the DL?
Pic of my situation:
Thanks,
Ryan.
it is always better to make the Panhard bar and the Steering Drag link as level as possible. However, it is much more important to make them the same length and parallel. The reason behind both statements is bump steer (when you drive over a bump the extension and compression of the axle causes the tires to turn.)
Francisco, the reason that it is not drooping more is because under articulation the axle wants to rotate. Which causes the 4 bushings to bind.
Remove one bolt from a bushing and see how well it flexes...
Francisco, the reason that it is not drooping more is because under articulation the axle wants to rotate. Which causes the 4 bushings to bind.
Remove one bolt from a bushing and see how well it flexes...
also the shocks look way too short.. you should be getting alot more flex than that!
- Thread starter
- #46
Mace, but you're talking about the bolts of the axle/bars attacchment? I can't remove none of them, otherwise the axle would rotate too much (I don't have a 3 or 4 link system).
Isotel, that's not a big problem, these are the old shock (I used them just to compare the new work with the old SPOA), I'm going to use a couple of coiovers in the front.
Francesco
Isotel, that's not a big problem, these are the old shock (I used them just to compare the new work with the old SPOA), I'm going to use a couple of coiovers in the front.
Francesco
- Thread starter
- #48
Forgive me Mace, but are you talking about these bolts:
The axle needs al least two point to mantain its position, otherwise it would rotate utilizing the one attachment point as a pivot, isn't it (that's why the 3 link with tirangler has a upper link, the triangle, and a power link, the radius; and HERE the radius has only one attachment on the axle).
Francesco
The axle needs al least two point to mantain its position, otherwise it would rotate utilizing the one attachment point as a pivot, isn't it (that's why the 3 link with tirangler has a upper link, the triangle, and a power link, the radius; and HERE the radius has only one attachment on the axle).
Francesco
here is a visual of what FJben did to his to get it flexing better..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1171472&postcount=5
This goes back to my original post on the limitations of the radius arm design..
and you may aswell remove those shocks and see if they are limiting travel aswell..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1171472&postcount=5
This goes back to my original post on the limitations of the radius arm design..
and you may aswell remove those shocks and see if they are limiting travel aswell..
- Thread starter
- #51
Oh, maybe I undesrtood: you are saying to take off just one bolt, only at one side of the axle, not one bolt for each bar, isn't it?
Otherwise I think that the axle would rotate too much; I mean, it's claer that without a bolt the axle would flex much better, but fisically it would rotate on is own on every aceleration, probably breacking the shaft, the shocks and everything is attached to it, the car would become undrivable.
Infact, why the radius bars have a couple of bolt each? If their wouldn't be necessair, there would be only uno bolt each, like there is in the bars for the 3 and 4 link...
So, did I catch the point...? :whoops:
Francesco
Otherwise I think that the axle would rotate too much; I mean, it's claer that without a bolt the axle would flex much better, but fisically it would rotate on is own on every aceleration, probably breacking the shaft, the shocks and everything is attached to it, the car would become undrivable.
Infact, why the radius bars have a couple of bolt each? If their wouldn't be necessair, there would be only uno bolt each, like there is in the bars for the 3 and 4 link...
So, did I catch the point...? :whoops:
Francesco
- Thread starter
- #52
Forgive me, I'm not really stupid, is just the language...
Francesco
Francesco
liek isotel said too take the shock off and see if thats holding it up as well
keep it going friend. I wouldn't change the rear rubber link on your radiur arms. those rubber links are similar to the early ford broncos. they are great as they flex well, absorb vibration, and are reletively cheap to replace.
Hi all.
I did a similar swap a few years ago on my 4R.
I had several problems with the first swap cause the steering was not aligned properly. The panhard bar and steering drag link had to run almost parallel in my case to eliminate death wobble. Took me a year and another SAS to figure things out.
I'm driving it for 3 years now without problems so far.
Off topic:
I got stranded with a melted gearbox (no oil) in a Hilux 12 years ago in Italy.
The yota dealer there told em that in Italy just about everything you change on a car is illegal. The few yota's I saw were bone stock.
You do not have to pass legal inspection or is it an off-road only rig?
I did a similar swap a few years ago on my 4R.
I had several problems with the first swap cause the steering was not aligned properly. The panhard bar and steering drag link had to run almost parallel in my case to eliminate death wobble. Took me a year and another SAS to figure things out.
I'm driving it for 3 years now without problems so far.
Off topic:
I got stranded with a melted gearbox (no oil) in a Hilux 12 years ago in Italy.
The yota dealer there told em that in Italy just about everything you change on a car is illegal. The few yota's I saw were bone stock.
You do not have to pass legal inspection or is it an off-road only rig?
- Thread starter
- #57
Hallo everybody!
Finally I'm back to my work!
Talking about the front axle, a few days ago I built a prototype of a panhard: the link are just temporary and in the next days I'll study a definitive system, but you can already take a look to the pics and have an idea:
By now I'm still waiting for the guy who builts coilovers: he has to come and take all the measurements that he needs.
Meantime, I began to take a look at the rear side; I'm figuring out how to built the support for the upper bar's links; that's how a friend of mine worked out the problem:
What do you think about that? Would it be fine? I'm not totally convinced about it, it seems to cumbersome. I tought about a tubular bar or a couple of links directly solded to the axle like this:
Any suggestions???
Francesco
Finally I'm back to my work!
Talking about the front axle, a few days ago I built a prototype of a panhard: the link are just temporary and in the next days I'll study a definitive system, but you can already take a look to the pics and have an idea:
By now I'm still waiting for the guy who builts coilovers: he has to come and take all the measurements that he needs.
Meantime, I began to take a look at the rear side; I'm figuring out how to built the support for the upper bar's links; that's how a friend of mine worked out the problem:
What do you think about that? Would it be fine? I'm not totally convinced about it, it seems to cumbersome. I tought about a tubular bar or a couple of links directly solded to the axle like this:
Any suggestions???
Francesco
- Thread starter
- #58
Just another little question: wich should be the size of:
- the heim joint (I hope that's the name!) for the bars (I've got a few of M20 joints, are they to small?)
- the iron tubular that I'll use to built the bars?
francesco
- the heim joint (I hope that's the name!) for the bars (I've got a few of M20 joints, are they to small?)
- the iron tubular that I'll use to built the bars?
francesco
1" heim joint ..
I have no problem with your rear tower idea .. but with your panhard .. mmm the support on the control arm bolt .. I don't think i sthe better idea .. maybe much strees for this.
I have no problem with your rear tower idea .. but with your panhard .. mmm the support on the control arm bolt .. I don't think i sthe better idea .. maybe much strees for this.
- Thread starter
- #60
Don't worry Tapage, these supports are just temporary, I'll built a stronger ones during the work.
The heim joints I have now are 20 mm, more or less 0,75"; I could buy wider joints, but they are quite expansive and it could takes long to order them, so if you say that the 0,75" are enough I'd use them.
Certanly, since I'm doing the work I should do it in the better and safer way...
Francesco
The heim joints I have now are 20 mm, more or less 0,75"; I could buy wider joints, but they are quite expansive and it could takes long to order them, so if you say that the 0,75" are enough I'd use them.
Certanly, since I'm doing the work I should do it in the better and safer way...
Francesco