This sounds correct!So you’ve verified that the motor works, but now unconfirmed about the circuit coming from the dash switch? IIRC, the circuit passes through a relay AND a circuit breaker before heading to the tailgate.
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This sounds correct!So you’ve verified that the motor works, but now unconfirmed about the circuit coming from the dash switch? IIRC, the circuit passes through a relay AND a circuit breaker before heading to the tailgate.
Yes, the motor works by using the key but not from the remote /dash switch. So given the tailgate key switch works (operates the motor) and passes through both the relay and circuit breaker. its either the wire feeding the dash switch or the dash switch itself?
These both sound reasonable.I’d say yes. Check voltage at the switch on both sides, and then circuit breaker and relay, and so on until you know you have voltage from the switch to the tailgate.
Is it me, or are they only labeling the switches as capable of going UP?I don’t know how much this will help you - I have a partial schematic pic for my 77 that shows the circuit. White wire with lavender stripe going to the circuit breaker.
View attachment 3564261
It looks like 12v coming into the relay from the turn signal circuit.
I’ll post a better pic for the 72 year circuit when I get home later.
This is a good thread for wiring diagrams:Thanks! I think @PabloCruise posted the schematics of an earlier model in the Gary S window thread plus, I have the FSM right here. Still not easy to figure it out...I am trying![]()
forum.ih8mud.com
Darn!yes. 3 wires. bY has power going into the relay but no voltage out to what connects to the solid blue wire to
the switch
I'll test the switch too but the issue is getting power to the switch from the relay at the dash. 12v into the relay but nothing on the other side of the relay -> switchSo you are saying you pulled power from the junction block in the tailgate when testing the dash switch?
ahh ok. so now I see a potential issue. The BY and black wires -> current going in but the body of the relay also needs to be grounded?I was testing the new (used one) just hanging , no ground. Let me try that....Relays usually have a ground wire going in. The mechanics behind a three wire relay (two hots going in and one hot going out) don’t quite compute unless it grounds through the housing.(?)
I don’t know that for a fact, just hypothesizingbut the body of the relay also needs to be grounded?I
Relays usually have a ground wire going in. The mechanics behind a three wire relay (two hots going in and one hot going out) don’t quite compute unless it grounds through the housing.(?)
you are in fact correct! Thank you!!!!I don’t know that for a fact, just hypothesizing
So now the switch isn’t working?I can get the mechanism to move now from the dash but not using switch, only by touching the wires together.https://photos.app.goo.gl/LVZMyth7DYMWejXG7
After tinkering with it ,I saw some movement using the switch. The issue is the old connecters not providing a solid connection. I can get it to work now with jumpers and a few alligator clips although moves somewhat slow.. it moves in both directionsSo now the switch isn’t working?
Well, at least we’ve made some progressAfter tinkering with it ,I saw some movement using the switch. The issue is the old connecters not providing a solid connection. I can get it wot work now with jumpers and a few alligator clips although moves somewhat slow.. it moves in both directions
and here's the proof. This was operating from the switch!Well, at least we’ve made some progress![]()
PUSH on the tailgate while trying the handle!Next challenge is getting the tailgate to openI assume it haven't been opened in several decades.
Thanks fya'll or all the help on Part 1 of the rear window.![]()