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Sweet, head gasket buddy! ;) Don't forget the pics!

So, you wanna come over and help me with mine? I'm guessing it'll probably be next week before I get to it. I'm just not looking forward to it. And, I have to swap out the cam bearings while I'm at it. Fun, fun, fun.

:cheers:
 
Do you think increased turbo pressure has to do with the head gasket? I don't know what 4BT tuners are doing or if folks doing high pressures are needing to do other things to keep the system together... just a random thought, feel free to make fun. :D
 

I like this idea. pave the road so when I step up the documentation is in order


I'll take two 6bta's and a 6bd1t plus extras for the price of this one

Pulled the head today. With a quick inspection things look good, I'll get a better eye on it in the light tomorrow. I picked up a head gasket this afternoon and am waiting on a phone call about the studs showing up. If they get here by Wednesday I might get it back on the road this week. If not it'll be next week.

dood so what gives with the head? rebuilt, spec'd and put together with detail? why hg failure?

Clint
 
Sweet, head gasket buddy! ;) Don't forget the pics!

So, you wanna come over and help me with mine? I'm guessing it'll probably be next week before I get to it. I'm just not looking forward to it. And, I have to swap out the cam bearings while I'm at it. Fun, fun, fun.

:cheers:

Hey Kyle,

Give me a heads up I wouldn't mind a day in the shop. Just hope we can coordinate schedules!

Clint
 
I always look at a head gasket a fuse on a turbo engine. Its a cheap part that saves some very expensive parts from potential damage if caught right away.

Head studs should seal it up good and tight, it may have just been a bad bolt that caused it to let in the first place. Where any lose what you removed the head?
 
I didn't get my parts before having to return to work so she sits until next week.


Do you think increased turbo pressure has to do with the head gasket? I don't know what 4BT tuners are doing or if folks doing high pressures are needing to do other things to keep the system together... just a random thought, feel free to make fun. :D

The 4bt on stock head bolts should be able to handle up to 40psi of boost. I am only putting out 23psi max right now so the stock bolt should be able to handle it. The 6bt guys have a few tricks and those tricks/mods will work on the 4bt as well. For anything over ~50psi you should go to studs instead of bolts. I saw this as an opportunity to upgrade that'll give me more room to grow than I was originally planning so it'll turn into a bigger safety margin.



Head studs should seal it up good and tight, it may have just been a bad bolt that caused it to let in the first place. Where any lose what you removed the head?


This is what I'm leaning towards, weakened bolts. And yes, some bolts didn't feel as tight as they probably should have been when I took it apart.

Here's my theory: First it starts with my fault since I'm the one who torqued the head down in the first place. I probably needed to go through one more additional retorque after being on the road for some miles (heat cycles). Then I had that pulley fail and took out my radiator hose. I didn't know the hose was compromised and didn't pull over right away so I think the additional heat compromised the head bolts reducing their clamping force. With the M&H spacer on my IP I'm getting more timing advance in the upper rpms which increases cylinder pressure and with the clamping force reduced the head gasket found a weakness. The weakness ended up being minor coolant consumption.

Some of the bolts were wet when I took them out around cylinder 3 so that must have been where it failed. The head gasket looked pretty good with no obvious signs of where coolant was getting into the cylinder. I got the block and head cleaned up with a razor blade, wiped it down with carb cleaner and used a spotlight to inspect. I didn't find any issues like cracks with the block or the head. Of course they could be very fine and only open once warmed up but at least nothing detectable with the naked eye. I also put a flat edge on the head and shined light behind it to see if the head warped and it's at least redneck straight.
 
Talked to the shop this week that I ordered the studs from and ARP didn't send all the fasteners. He called ARP and they said they had to make more, they were out of stock on a certain size. He wasn't too happy with them but we're hoping for next week now. :princess: has been walking the kids to school in the rain this week while I take the car to work. I'm thinking I better make V-day a little more special for putting up with the situation.
 
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^^^ Sounds like a wise idea!

What size studs? I could check with the race shop around the corner from me...

Best of luck.

ps: a running cruiser does not = VDay gift.
 
I'd be too tempted to pull a ferris bueller in that thing... it is red and has lots of power. A few back road throttle hits would be a lot of fun though, perhaps another session of "tranny tuning" is in order. :D
 
how goes the cummins repair?
 
Would you believe I'm still waiting for 4 more studs?

from cummins or arp? I would be on someone's @#$% after a few days, unless that is some oddball deal.
 
These are the arp studs I'm still waiting for; some back order issue on only 4 of the studs. I'm getting them through a hot rod shop I know (same that did my engine work) and he's getting me a better deal. I know it's not his fault but it'd be nice to have my truck running again so I'm going to see what else he can do this week. It's feeling like the ol' choose two scenario... speed, quality, price. At least the :princess: is getting some of the Honey-Do's completed off her list since the truck's been down.
 
yea....the old hurry up and wait game :bang:

Seems like those studs would be a fairly common item...but I know sometimes you don't have any control over how things play out.
 
At least the :princess: is getting some of the Honey-Do's completed off her list since the truck's been down.

there is no better chance to make more points at home .. unlucky for us ( at least for me ) you can make a bunch .. working hard for weeks .. but if are not used ASAP you can loose all 'em in a heartbeat
 
Update

The studs FINALLY arrived! But not the original ones ordered.

I called the hot rod shop on Monday and he called ARP to find out those studs are still on back order for at least another 2 weeks. They found something else that would work and sent them. It cost more but I couldn't wait much longer. They showed up yesterday and I got right to it.

I had cleaned everything up and stored stuff waiting for my parts.

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While I waited I found some dusting inside the turbo.

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I took off the housing and cleaned it up. Tolerances are still good.

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Found my restriction gauge wasn't solid anymore so I removed it and capped the line for now. Filter looks fine so I'm hoping that's all it was. Could have been back from the fire days with all the extinguishent dust inside the engine bay. I know I had to clean my filter pretty good after that.

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Again the old gasket didn't have any obvious leak points. I compared it to the new one and the only difference I could see between the two was this water passage on the lower right.

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Some more things I picked up: new engine timing pin and exhaust gaskets.

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The timing pin is used to find TDC and in a previous adjustment session I had forgot to pull the pin back (common) so it got sheared off. Since I had a little more access I replaced it.

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Once the studs showed up I jumped in the car and picked them up. The substituted studs were .240" longer than the originals ordered.

Long stud: AV8.200-2B Quantity: 4

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Medium Stud: AV5.750-2LB TP67118 Quantity: 10

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Short Stud: AV3.420-2LB Quantity: 4

P2290052.JPG
.

Washers: AVW875N 65799-H Quantity: 18
Nuts: AVN122 MH66156 Quantity: 18

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Got a tube of the special ARP thread lube and put them in. The studs have an allen head socket in the top of them so I tightened them down with that. From what I've read they are only suppose to be hand tight so that's all I did.

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Head gasket slid down ready for the head. Had my neighbor give me a hand on easing the head down and onto the block.

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Torque'd it down in several steps. First to 66ftlbs, then to 90, 105, 115 and finally to 125. Bolted a bunch of stuff back on, adjusted the valves, and basically put off the valve covers until the end because I was anticipating some clearance issues with the longer studs trying to fit underneath them. Thought of and talked about different ways to deal with that since the studs were too long and finally decided on cutting the bottom threads of the studs down. I removed about 3 1/2 threads per stud, dressed them, and clearanced some webbing inside the valve covers to get them to seal. This added to the time of the job and I finished at 11pm last night.

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Filled the radiator, rechecked all things I took off, bled the injector lines and it started up and idled out. Let it idle for 10 minutes to check for any leaks and took it for a spin. Nothing bad happened so I drove it to work today with no issues. I'm taking it easy on it for right now and WILL recheck torque next week after a couple days of driving for some heat cycles.

Even with all it's imperfections compared to a modern vehicle I really missed driving it and really enjoyed my commute this morning. Happy to have it back on the road again and ready to start hauling the trailer for house projects. It's also time to hit the trail again.
 
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