elocker wiring and switches

[Pat4x4]

He makes nice stuff as I've said before but there is no way that I would use a flip switch panel for a retrofit of elockers in an 80. Of course this is just my opinion FWIW.

The flips are just one way he can do it.. personally I don't like them either

He can give you any type of switch you want.. Of the 4 harness Switch set ups I have used from him I always used the carling switches in the factory toyota knockouts.. Looks top notch and factory.. Same switches ARB uses..

Anyways He can give you anything you desire as long as it is available.. When you order a setup from him it is what you want from Switch all the way down to the plugs that go into the locker.. Everything

 

[WarDamnEagle]

What I should have said, and again, this is only my opinion, is that I would only use an OEM switch in the factory location in an 80 that doubles as a daily driver.....but then again, I don't even like light switches that don't look "factory" except perhaps in highly modified, trail only, vehicles.

And again, 12Voltguy makes nice stuff so my bias has nothing to do with his products.

 

[Pat4x4]

everybody has their own tastes that is for sure and that is where he shines.. My tastes are for sure different. Can't stand the way over complicated factory stuff

Good luck finding your parts

 

[KLF]

The only thing I'll add about the 12voltguy stuff is that you need to be careful what you use for switches. He does not use any relays in his wiring, which is OK, but that means that full motor current will be going thru the switches. This is probably fine for the nice HD switches he provides in his kits, but I would not do that with the OEM circular switch, I don't think the contacts are rated for that much current.

I also have to assume (no wiring diagram on his website that I can see) that full motor current is going thru the limit travel switches inside the actuators, and I'm sure they are not rated for that. If you use the lockers often, I could see them wearing out pretty quickly. That's a very expensive part to replace.

I'm sure there are people using them this way with no issues, but the factory didn't provide that "over complicated" wiring just for the heck of it.

 

[Pat4x4]

The only thing I'll add about the 12voltguy stuff is that you need to be careful what you use for switches. He does not use any relays in his wiring, which is OK, but that means that full motor current will be going thru the switches. This is probably fine for the nice HD switches he provides in his kits, but I would not do that with the OEM circular switch, I don't think the contacts are rated for that much current.

I also have to assume (no wiring diagram on his website that I can see) that full motor current is going thru the limit travel switches inside the actuators, and I'm sure they are not rated for that. If you use the lockers often, I could see them wearing out pretty quickly. That's a very expensive part to replace.

I'm sure there are people using them this way with no issues, but the factory didn't provide that "over complicated" wiring just for the heck of it.

He can do it with relays or just switches. the factory circular switch would have to be used with some sort of reley because of its configuration...Have you ever put a DC amp clamp on the Motor of a elocker? I have.. Frankly they pull almost nothing. If memory serves me correctly it was like 2 or 3 amps(been 4 or 5 years).. I tested both my front high pinion and the rear low pinion and they were the same.. the 2 wire limit switch you refer too is not a limit switch. it is a indicator switch used only for the the indicator light LED, It is a grounding switch if memory serves me correct and that is what 12voltguy uses it for

I have been running 12voltguy stuff for over 7 years in different rigs trouble free as well. I use my lockers all the time too. Matter a fact I even had to replace a ring and pinion on my rear third.. pulled the motor all down to inspect since I had the third out and it was perfect.. Inspected the rotary switches that the motor current goes through and zero signs of heat or over current. Many others I know on Pirate have been using them without one issue.

... I am a 20 year electrician and frankly can't see the reason for how over done their controls are for the locker.. I think most of it is liability.. Anyways there is more then one way to skin a cat and everybody should choose the one they feel most comfortable with.. there is just so many people who over look 12voltguy stuff because they just don't know or are misinformed..

 

[KLF]

the 2 wire limit switch is used only for the the indicator light..

No, I mean the limit travel switches inside the actuator, the ones that tell the motor to stop running. They look like this (stolen from a thread in the 80's section):

When the motor is running it probably only draws about 3-4 amps, I agree. But stall that motor and see what the current does. I know, it's rare that it can happen.

Do what you want, but I'll keep my relay setup thankyouverymuch.

 

[Pat4x4]

yep.. that is the rotary switch that the motor current goes through.. Stick with your relays.. Ignorance is Bliss..

Just ribbing you..

How does the relay keep motor current from going through the rotary switch you have in the pic.. It does not.. It still goes through it.. You can't change that if you want you elocker to work. So if one of your relays were to stick it would it would be the same thing.. Relays don't effect the motor rotary.. they take the current off the control switch..

So anyway you cut it, your argument for full motor current going through the limit switch is void

 

[Pat4x4]

The only thing I'll add about the 12voltguy stuff is that you need to be careful what you use for switches. He does not use any relays in his wiring, which is OK, but that means that full motor current will be going thru the switches. This is probably fine for the nice HD switches he provides in his kits, but I would not do that with the OEM circular switch, I don't think the contacts are rated for that much current.

I also have to assume (no wiring diagram on his website that I can see) that full motor current is going thru the limit travel switches inside the actuators, and I'm sure they are not rated for that. If you use the lockers often, I could see them wearing out pretty quickly. That's a very expensive part to replace.

I'm sure there are people using them this way with no issues, but the factory didn't provide that "over complicated" wiring just for the heck of it.

yea this, if you look in the pic the motor wiring and limit is part of motor. so not only is it rated for that but they are designed for it and that is the only way the locker will function

and if you stall your motor it is Out of time or broken.

 

[12voltguy]

hey everyone
I know not everyone wants my setup, that is cool

I've tested this setup for many years, & never had 1 fail.

If you know how the locker works, you understand that it draws very low amperage, on bench 1.5a

Toyota uses relays & computer for several reasons
one to keep you from engaging the locker over 5mph, or in 2wd
I believe you guys have a mod to bypass this.
also the switches they use are not the type to reverse the motor, so they must a relay to get there switch to function the motor in a fwd/rev manor.
I also don't like wire splices, so I did not offer a cable kit until the last year or so, I had to be able to make the cable 1 piece with no splices, diff to dash, it plugs to diff with factory pieces.

I know this site isn't my market, overall most here seem to favor the stock look, and hey that is cool. trucks are a reflection of ourselves & should not have stuff in or on them you don't care for, they should be built however you prefer them

my buddy Pat here doesn't like 99% of the things I do to my rig

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I am a 20 year electrician and frankly can't see the reason for how over done their controls are for the locker.. I think most of it is liability..

Toyota wanted other functionality that would be quite difficult to achieve without using an ECU for the elocker. For example, they only wanted the lockers to work if the center diff was locked. They also didn't want the elocker motors to attempt to lock the axle if you were driving more than 5 mph (guess on the actual speed). Now one can argue that neither is necessary but you have to admit that it's a bit scarry to think about Joe Q Public locking his front and rear axles at 80 mph while switching lanes on the interstate.

I actually don't think that the wiring is that complicated. The only trouble that I had, and part of the reason that this thread is so long, is that I wanted to use an 80 ECU and switch to control two TRD elockers. In hindsight, even figuring that out wasn't that difficult.

 

[Pat4x4]

Toyota wanted other functionality that would be quite difficult to achieve without using an ECU for the elocker. For example, they only wanted the lockers to work if the center diff was locked. They also didn't want the elocker motors to attempt to lock the axle if you were driving more than 5 mph (guess on the actual speed). Now one can argue that neither is necessary but you have to admit that it's a bit scarry to think about Joe Q Public locking his front and rear axles at 80 mph while switching lanes on the interstate.

I actually don't think that the wiring is that complicated. The only trouble that I had, and part of the reason that this thread is so long, is that I wanted to use an 80 ECU and switch to control two TRD elockers. In hindsight, even figuring that out wasn't that difficult.

Hence the term I used.. Liability, So I agree.... yes the ECU is the best option for toyota even more so with the center diff of the cruisers.. that would be bad.


the factory wiring is not complicated to me either.. But way more then it needs to be..... As long as it works for you that is all that really matters. Some just like to eliminate things that are not truly needed..

... All the folks who claim they want to use the "factory stuff" because toyota designed it and it must be the best, well then frankly they should not do any mods to their rig.. They should not jump the 2wd Lockout, or the 5MPH lockout, nor should they lift there rig or put bigger tires on it, the list goes on in regards to every mod made to our rigs..

.... What I am trying to say is we modify our rigs to make them work better for the offroad environment.. toyota builds them so the soccer mom won't kill herself and the kids on the way to Safeway after picking the kids up from school.. But it will still work OK for the weekend warrior.. As said many times in this thread.. to each their own..

 

[KLF]

Just ribbing you..

No problem! It would truly suck if we all built our rigs exactly the same, wouldn't it?

How does the relay keep motor current from going through the rotary switch you have in the pic.. It does not.. It still goes through it..

Maybe you're looking at a different wiring diagram than what I used. Go back to Mike's post #4 and look at that diagram, it is similar to what I used. The "locking fork position switch" is the switch I mention above. Notice how it is only connected to the LOW current side of the relays, the coils that energize the relays. I believe my relays are spec'd to only draw about 20mA when energized. In other words, the position switches are not between the motor and the power source, so full motor current DOES NOT pass thru these switches, only the DPDT side of the relays.

This is also why the motor wires in the factory harnesses are a little heavier, the rest of the harness is light gage wiring.

 

[Pat4x4]

I would need the locker in front of me to see which one.. but for some reason I want to say that current passes through one of the rotary contacts to the motor all the time. Lord knows I have been wrong before Maybe I'll check it later and get back to you and if so ignorance is bliss in my case toolol .. But those little rotary contacts are way more then capable of the full load(1.5 to 3 amp) of the motor and then a whole bunch more.. You will damage the motor itself since it is intermittent rated before the contact ever had a problem from current, if it was to stay on or something from the locker being out of time or the fork bent..

12voltguy did his homework either way.. It is a very Proven setup he has..

 

[cranky steve]

Do I detect a new type of "ICE" the "MCE" ?

I have wired up Toy E-Lockers with the Inchworm kit, which does not use relays. Like 12volt guys, they work fine. No reports of any failures with the switch method with properly spec'ed parts.

Personaly, I like to use relays when appropriate, but with just a few amps, i go KISS.

The biggest issue with Elockers is as the Motors age, they need to be rebuilt to undo the effects of the elements on them.

I've known Pat for years, and he knows his stuff. 12voltguy knows his wiring. Take advantage of these guys, they are contributors.

 

[Pat4x4]

Do I detect a new type of "ICE" the "MCE" ?

I have wired up Toy E-Lockers with the Inchworm kit, which does not use relays. Like 12volt guys, they work fine. No reports of any failures with the switch method with properly spec'ed parts.

Personaly, I like to use relays when appropriate, but with just a few amps, i go KISS.

The biggest issue with Elockers is as the Motors age, they need to be rebuilt to undo the effects of the elements on them.

I've known Pat for years, and he knows his stuff. 12voltguy knows his wiring. Take advantage of these guys, they are contributors.

Merry Christmas Steve

When you making the stickers?

 

[toystoplay]

I signed up for an account on here just so i can thank you guys for all the info. From this post and the info contained I was able to figure out all my wiring for my e-lockers into my 91 truck. I have a little different deal but this was the most help from all my internet searches!!!


Thanks!!!

Jim

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I signed up for an account on here just so i can thank you guys for all the info. From this post and the info contained I was able to figure out all my wiring for my e-lockers into my 91 truck. I have a little different deal but this was the most help from all my internet searches!!!


Thanks!!!

Jim

Welcome Jim (mud salute)

Glad the thread helped. I certainly had a good time with the project.

 

[My4x4FJ40]

e locker

Just another way to go about the wiring...

My 85 4runner came from the factory with a power antenna. At some point in its life the antenna was replaced with a normal non-power antenna. It's a momentary on switch (on, off, on) so it's perfect for powering the elocker. After a little testing with the volt meter this is what a came up with. The back of the switch has six contacts like ::: . In the image below the contacts that I have drawn are the contacts linked together when the switch is in the designated position.

I ran +12v wire to the two contacts on the switch circled in red. I ran the yellow contact to the lock relay and the green contact to the unlock relay

This is the wiring diagram I used to wire up the elocker.

One of the green LEDs run from the 86 pin on the locked relay then to ground. The LED is illuminated when the locked limit switch is open. This lets me know when I can let off the switch. The other green LED works the same on the unlock relay.

The switch only needs to be depressed for about a second to activate or deactivate the locker. So having a momentary on switch has worked out perfect. When I install an e-locker in the front, I plan to get another power antenna switch and place it where the overdrive light is (I have a 5speed so I have no uses for the light). I think most trucks just have a blank punch out instead of the overdrive light.

Guy's

I just bought a fj80 e locker and have been reading up on wiring up with out a ecu and would like your input on what I may have come up with. Going on the picture above, using the power antenna switch and 3 lights, but using a GM power door lock relay from a mid 80's Monte Carlo for the relay pack, since it has both relays in one? Less wiring between relays and should handle the load with no problem? Any thoughts on this.

thanks
lee

TLCA#20714

 

[mtntoys]

Are the GM relays double throw? Unless you don't have any pick and pulls near you, I see no reason not to use toyota relays and switches. They're in every 84-95 pickup and 4runner (toyota cars probably have them too).
I didn't bother to wire up the three lights when I did my front locker. The indicater lights on my rear locker were tripping the relays. You can hear the relays click on and off and its obvious when the diff is locked.

 

[Cruise This]

94 Land Cruiser Axles w/ 05 LX 470 tranny, Wiring Lockers

Ok, no preamble, but I really need some help. I have a 91 Land Cruiser with a 05 4.7L 2UZFE motor with a LX 470 tranny. I am trying to wire the e.Lockers and have no idea what pairs with what, specifically because I can't find the wiring diagram coming from the LX...
K so photo's won't load
this is what I got:
Truck:
White
Red
Blue
Black
Yellow
Green
Actuator:
Green
White/black
Yellow
Green/Black
Green/Blue
Green/Yellow,
and the Vacuum
does anyone know off the top of their head, which goes to which?