elocker wiring and switches

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Looks like quite a novel solution. Just a couple of questions:

What does the red LED do?

Where did you get your LED lights; I really like those.

Did you use switched power for everything or just for the switch and LEDs and then unswitched power for the locker? Obviously the diagram shows a single power source and I assume that if it was unswitched that the relays and the LEDs would always see power. Lastly, where did you source the power?

Apologies for all the questions!

I have pretty much decided to put 2 new TRD elockers in this summer. I want to go to 4.56 ratios and I've had no luck sourcing these used. If you buy a used one with a different ratio then you have to spend $400 to $500 regearing and I can buy a new 4.56 for $940 delivered.

I also think I'm just going to use an FZJ80 rotating switch like Foxfab but I want to put a locked front and locked rear LED beside the switch. I like the way this switch works (and looks) in my 80 and my 100.

Now if I just pay Foxfab or KLF to build that circuit for me.....:D

Everyone's posts in this thread have been extremely helpful! Thanks!
 
There is a switch on the elocker third (separate from the electric motor) that turns on when the locker is locked. This is shown in the wiring diagram as pins 6 and 7. So the red LED is illuminated when the lockers actually locked.

I picked up the LEDs from a local electronics store in Baltimore. I want to say they were <$2.

I added a fuse block for all my accessories. I have a switch in-between the fuse block and the battery so I guess you can say everything is on switched power. I just flip the switch when I start and stop the truck.

You might want to shop around for new elockers. My buddy recently picked a hipinion up for $780 from his local Toyota parts source.
 
mtntoys said:
You might want to shop around for new elockers. My buddy recently picked a hipinion up for $780 from his local Toyota parts source.
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Thanks for the LED info.

I can find both TRD and Hi-pinion elockers used for $400 to $750. The problem is the gearing. The TRD is common in 4.10 and 4.30 but 4.56 is quite rare. Also the HI-pinion only came in 4.10 and you rarely see one regeared for sale and I've yet to find one in 4.56 used for sale. I did find one listed on car-parts.com in North Carolina at a wrecker yard but when I phoned them they were clueless. They couldn't even tell me if it had an electric motor on the differential!

Regearing by Zuk (for example) is $200 and the gears and install kits are going to run $250 plus in total (even more for the reverse cut, Hi-pinion gears). It just doesn't seem to pay to buy used and regear over new.
 
mtntoys said:
He got a NEW elocker 3rd with the electric motor for $780. I here you on the regearing though. I picked up both of mine used for $450 and kept the 4.10.
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If it's not too much trouble, could you get me the contact details for his source and/or ask him to check on a TRD low-pinion in 4.56? Normally the hi-pinion and the TRD sell for the same price. If he can get them for $780 then I want 2 of them!

Thanks!
 
KLF said:
The ECU that they put in the Taco/4Runner will only run one locker. You can also get one for the FZJ80, it will run both. But, those things are unobtanium in the junkyards, and a new one from Toyota is mucho $$$, like around $300 last I knew. Not worth it.
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I was headed down the relay route when I ran across some unobtainium this morning and bought an 80 elocker ECU for a reasonable price.

Has anyone seen a write-up on how to wire one of these puppies?

I will also post in the 80 section to see if I can at least find a wiring diagram.
 
Here ya go:

http://www.yankeetoys.org/Documents/FJ80_DiffLock_Diagram.zip

Wiring diagram from the FZJ80 FSM. Note that it's a WinZip file, containing 3 GIF images. I don't have the original, someone sent me these scans a long time ago, so I just made them into a ZIP file. If I could get my hands on an original FSm book, I'd re-do them into PDF files.
 
Thanks. They show up fine on a printout. I haven't tried to rationalize the two diagrams yet but will do so. I think with these two diagrams and the factory wiring diagram for the ECU then I will be fine. I had already intended to use an FZJ80 switch so I should be good to go there. Also I would think the wiring (if not in color coding then at least in number of wires) would be very similar between the rear TRD elocker (which I will use 2 of), the rear Landcruiser elocker, and the front Landcruiser Hi-pinion elocker.

Assuming that I can pull this install off during the summer when I am home with both the factory ECU and the 2 TRD elockers, I will try to document the install with lots of photos. Could be a nice contribution to the forum.
 
KLF,

I've now laid the two photos side by side (together they form one wiring diagram) and have a couple of questions of you or anyone that can read these diagrams. I would have sent you a PM but I thought this might be useful to someone else later.

I know that there is a maximum speed "switch" of 5 mph that must not be triggered in order for the ECU to allow the lockers to lock. I am guessing that this input to the ECU is Pin 4 on the ECU as I cannot find another purpose for this input. Also from another locker ECU write-up (but for a single locker ECU) it would appear that you just leave this pin unconnected (and not grounded). Does this seem like a reasonable assumption?

The second question has to do with some of the symbols on the diagram. These are octagon shaped symbols with the letter I or B followed by a number (e.g. "I 3") that appear where certain wire connections are located (but not all connections). I'm assuming these are just hard connections and aren't anything special (functionally speaking) but wanted to get confirmation from someone that knew for certain.

Thanks
 
Thanks Jerod. Unfortunately it will be late July or so before I am back in the US and can install the lockers. I will try to document with lots of photos, etc. I will then start a new thread and you can decide if you want to add it to the FAQ.

I think I have the wiring pretty much figured out. It will be especially easy if I can find the ECU connectors with about a foot or so of original wiring attached. I have quite a bit of time to try to source that. I plan on using an 80 switch and will also try to find an original connector, again with some original wiring attached.

The diagrams that KLF linked in the thread are pretty comprehensive and easily legible once printed.
 
I bought new harnesses for about $30 each from a dealership outside of Boston. I tried using used wiring, but found the harnesses I got were destroyed from sitting attached to the diff and rolling around at a wrecking yard floor.

As far as my switches, I ditched my factory stereo location for a Tuffy Console, and has 12 volt guy build me a new panel to incorporate my elocker, along with my other switches.
Small38.webp
 
Great looking switch panel GRM. I have aquired an 80 elocker switch, wiring connector with pigtails for the switch, and an elocker ECU wiring connector with pigtails (to connect to the ECU) from a mud member who was parting a wrecked 80. Now all I need is some time and a 9 hour flight.
 
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KLF said:
Pics of said Tuffy console, please. My puny center console is too cramped.
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I'll see if I can find a pic of it. I believe its a 10" wide one. I found it on craigslist from a guy who mounted it in his '82 mini truck. I pulled the front cup holder off, and Im waiting to find a center console from an 01-04 reg cab 4wd tacoma with a bench seat to put in place of the stock one.

Also note, I have single cases (so the rear shifter would have to go through the tuffy console), and a forward shift front case to make the tacoma console fit.

Below is a pic I stole off ebay of the tacoma console.
2788870_25.webp
 
I've ran into a bit of a snag trying to rationalize the wiring between the FZJ80 wiring diagram and a TRD elocker. What I really need are the factory service manual diagrams and operational description for a 97 through 01 4Runner elocker. I've posted the question over in the 95+ forum to see if someone has one.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toy...stion-factory-service-manual.html#post3160997

I can probably figure this out on the fly during the installation but I have time to do the research so why not.
 
KLF,

Thanks, but I already have those drawings printed out. There does seem to be some inconsistency in these write-ups and none of them have absolutely answered my questions. Also, there is not a functional description with the TRD elocker drawings like there is with the FZJ80 elocker drawings. That link is a great resource however.

My plan is to take 2 TRD elockers with the factory harness, cut off the 8 conductor connectors and run 6 conductor wire to the FZJ80 ECU from each elocker. Ideally, I would like to know exactly how to connect the wires before I start. Therefore, I need to match the FZJ80 ECU pinouts to the TRD elocker pinouts. Most of the wires are obvious (e.g. ground, Lock position switch) but some aren't. For example, there are 2 motor wires, (light green/red and light green). I think power on to lock is green and power on to unlock is green/red but I can't be sure. I have a similiar problem with the 2 limit switch wires (light green/black and light green/yellow).

Unless I get confirmation otherwise from someone, I have concluded the following. If you look at the rear elocker on the FZJ80 elocker wiring diagram (link is in post 29), you will see 4 wires (2 for motor power and 2 for the motor limit switch) with wire colors labeled G-L, G, G-B and G-Y. If you then compare these colors with the wiring for the TRD elocker (link is in post 39, BTW they are from the same website which is a fantastic resource!), you find the wire colors as LG-R, LG, LG-B and LG-Y. Not surprising that they aren't exactly the same as they are two different elockers. I have decided, in the absense of any further information, that functionally the wires should match as follows:

FZJ80 wire color ................. TRD wire color
G-L ..........................................LG-R .................(Motor power)
G .............................................LG ....................(Motor power)
G-B ..........................................LG-B .................(Motor limit switch)
G-Y ..........................................LG-Y .................(Motor limit switch)

I have no evidence other than "gut feel" that the two motor wires and the two limit switch wires would wire up this way. One or both could be backwards. If I have some kind of confirmation on this one question, then there would be no guessing when I start wiring. I have everything else figured out.

If I can figure the rear elocker out, then the front elocker won't be a problem connecting to the FZJ80 elocker ECU as the front and rear elockers shown on that diagram are depicted exactly the same.

BTW, KLF, the link that you gave me in post 8 is excellent. Here is the link again:

Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, & 4x4 Fun

This write-up gives an excellent explanation of the 8 pin factory TRD elocker harness with a pinout diagram and explains how to go from the 8 pin factory connector to 6 conductor wire to the ECU (1 pin isn't used and 2 grounds are rationalized into 1 conductor).

I think there is a mistake on the pinout table, however. I'm pretty sure that Pin 7, shown on the table as Green-Black, is actually Green-Red. In fact, the narrative under "Analyzing the Wiring" refers to the motor power wires as Green and Green with a Red stripe. FWIW.

If anyone has actually managed to read this far, apologies for my obsession with the detail on this wiring. I live in England most of the year and I will only have a couple of days to do this entire modification when we fly home this summer. I don't want to be trying to figure out wiring on the fly if I can help it. Also, I don't want to risk damaging 2 new TRD elockers because I have the wiring wrong. Assuming that I can get this to work, then I will write it up as idiot-proof as possible so that anyone that wants to make this mod with an FZJ80 elocker ECU and/or FZJ80 elocker switch can do so easily.
 
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