Builds Elma the red 60 (1 Viewer)

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Good news! Amazon delivered me a new bad a$$ Erwin 12" tap wrench. I got the stripped exhaust stud to seat. The pucker factor was real. I was sure to use some Magic Tap and went extra slow. I also tightened the bolt extra slow. I did't bother with the torque wrench. I just turned until it felt good and snug. I was to afraid to break it again. If I had to take the manifold off to fix, it would cost me 2 months minimum.
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Finally got some fluids going in as well. This is the easy way to do it. Let gravity do the work. My driveway has a slight decline and the nozzle on the RAD is bent back a bit (just like my old one) as well so pouring just isn't a realistic option. Unless you have a week to pour coolant. This takes the pain right out of it. The little hand pump is useless on this thing so the old fashion suck and spit was the real method here. Although antifreeze is slightly sweet, it has a sh:tty after taste. I'm going to invest in one of those electric syphon pumps one day.
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First round of new oil also went in. Of course I overfilled the funnel and spilled oil everywhere but I'm not showing you a pic of that.
:doh::bang:
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When you get ready to run it and burp the cooling system, get one of these. It is hands down the easiest and cleanest way to do the job.:cheers:

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Got it! You have any insight on this process? I don't know how to do this.
You find the cap that fits,put the funnel together,pour in coolant until it stops going down, then fill the funnel with about another 3" of coolant. Start the truck and run it until the coolant sucks down. Add a little more to the funnel and wait until the thermostat opens and all the bubbles stop coming up. You might have to add coolant to the funnel several times so it doesn't run dry. I did mine, let it cool back down ,and did it one more time , just to make sure I got all the air out. Having the front of the truck higher then the back also aids in air removal:cheers:.
 
You find the cap that fits,put the funnel together,pour in coolant until it stops going down, then fill the funnel with about another 3" of coolant. Start the truck and run it until the coolant sucks down. Add a little more to the funnel and wait until the thermostat opens and all the bubbles stop coming up. You might have to add coolant to the funnel several times so it doesn't run dry. I did mine, let it cool back down ,and did it one more time , just to make sure I got all the air out. Having the front of the truck higher then the back also aids in air removal:cheers:.

Great! Just ordered. Thank you for the direction. I'll report back...
 
Lisle brand is great too. I got mine off amazon. Makes filling a breeze. My driveway has a perfect little incline which I roll it back on and chock the wheels. Works great.
 
Lisle brand is great too. I got mine off amazon. Makes filling a breeze. My driveway has a perfect little incline which I roll it back on and chock the wheels. Works great.

X2 on this. Have the same one and its a piece of cake. Such a simple tool to have such an impact on this job. But having tried it I wouldn't do it any other way now.
 
Soooo... Good news bad news. Good news... I passed CA Smog with pretty good numbers and the truck is running great. Bad news... I have a massive oil leak at the front of the motor. Like there will be no oil in the tuck in an hour sitting in my driveway massive. Either from the oil pan or the timing cover is my guess. I'm hoping it's the oil pan cause that's easy to get to. Here's my theory (I hope to god this is what's wrong) It took me so much futzing and twisting and fighting to get the oil pan on that i tweaked the front half moon piece and or the seal packing goop set up on me before I got the darn thing seated. Once on maybe it never had a god seal and once it fully heat cycled it broke the seal.

Thoughts?
 
Can you see where the oil is leaking from? Your theory on the oil pan seems solid, but the caveat to doing so much work is that a new part you got is failing. Check the timing cover, front main seal and the oil pan for leaks.

Btw, congratulations on getting this truck done! Reading your thread was bringing back PTSD from when I did the timing chain on my 80 pickup...only to have the head gasket blow a week later.
 
Can you see where the oil is leaking from? Your theory on the oil pan seems solid, but the caveat to doing so much work is that a new part you got is failing. Check the timing cover, front main seal and the oil pan for leaks.

Btw, congratulations on getting this truck done! Reading your thread was bringing back PTSD from when I did the timing chain on my 80 pickup...only to have the head gasket blow a week later.

It's fairly deceiving. It looks like it's coming from both but I'm guessing it's running weird and making me think that. I doubt both are actually leaking. Trying to think what I could have done wrong with the timing gear gasket if anything...
 
Soooo... Good news bad news. Good news... I passed CA Smog with pretty good numbers and the truck is running great. Bad news... I have a massive oil leak at the front of the motor. Like there will be no oil in the tuck in an hour sitting in my driveway massive. Either from the oil pan or the timing cover is my guess. I'm hoping it's the oil pan cause that's easy to get to. Here's my theory (I hope to god this is what's wrong) It took me so much futzing and twisting and fighting to get the oil pan on that i tweaked the front half moon piece and or the seal packing goop set up on me before I got the darn thing seated. Once on maybe it never had a god seal and once it fully heat cycled it broke the seal.

Thoughts?
:bang: That freekin sucks! No good deed goes unpunished. One common thing is, using the wrong length bolts when installing the timing cover. There are 3 different lengths of bolts, and they have to be 100% in the correct orientation. Looking at your thread, pic#119, it looks like you did take the time to orientate the bolts, so , hopefully it is just the oil pan.
 
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It's fairly deceiving. It looks like it's coming from both but I'm guessing it's running weird and making me think that. I doubt both are actually leaking. Trying to think what I could have done wrong with the timing gear gasket if anything...

The timing cover gasket was a multi piece one wasn’t it?
 
Soooo... Good news bad news. Good news... I passed CA Smog with pretty good numbers and the truck is running great. Bad news... I have a massive oil leak at the front of the motor. Like there will be no oil in the tuck in an hour sitting in my driveway massive. Either from the oil pan or the timing cover is my guess. I'm hoping it's the oil pan cause that's easy to get to. Here's my theory (I hope to god this is what's wrong) It took me so much futzing and twisting and fighting to get the oil pan on that i tweaked the front half moon piece and or the seal packing goop set up on me before I got the darn thing seated. Once on maybe it never had a god seal and once it fully heat cycled it broke the seal.

Thoughts?
Not helpful now but if you redo it, PM me and I’ll explain how I did mine. Way easier. GL.
 
Redo which Felicity? The timing cover or the oil pan?
Oops, sorry. Oil pan. I do feel that adding the gasket to the pan isn’t the way to go. Like you said, those arches are too easy for it to roll as your pushing the pan upward.
 
Oops, sorry. Oil pan. I do feel that adding the gasket to the pan isn’t the way to go. Like you said, those arches are too easy for it to roll as your pushing the pan upward.

I’m all ears. Is it in your thread?
 
I’m all ears. Is it in your thread?
Yeah but who knows where.... you know my thread is all gabby at least 5 pages back I’d guess. I can explain better later. At work now.
 
@joebattle1 i think I threw some pictures up on how I did the oil pan. It’s been fine for 6 months now and a few thousand miles.

Feel free to PM me and we can hop on a call if you want.

To diagnose I would clean everything up real nice at timing and oil pan and the. Drive for a little. Pull over and check. Simple and stupid.
 

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