- Thread starter
- #21
That’s a nice option. Definitely simplifiesadding smaller pieces.
Drawer Tie-Downs on Steroids
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That’s a nice option. Definitely simplifiesadding smaller pieces.
Perfect. Man I was just searching Tie Down's and I saw this, just ordered.
Thank you @Markuson and @Butzi.
Thank you @Markuson and @Butzi.
These look perfect for my needs. I didn't want to go full track but also wanted something low profile so when I am not using them they won't catch when I slide things in/out. Quick question. Their website shows fastener length options of 1, 1.5 and 2.5". Which one's did you go with and how did they work out? Given that we both are fastening them to the top of an ARB drawer it should be the same. Thanks!
BAY2MTN
SILVER Star
Dan, I ordered the 1". I guessed the ARB top shelf is 5/8" thick (?; couldn't verify online). I was unable to take a measurement yesterday since my LC was in the shop and I just HAD to order it immediately!!!
I'll update you when they come in, and install is complete. I should have asked if they can make them black....
Thanks. 5/8" works. I just went out to the garage and measured my roll top. (And, yes, I could have done that myself but I was too lazy to get out of my chair! LOL!). I measured the end cap to the roll top but I suspect it only adds about an 1/8" of an inch. I'm going to order the 1" fasteners. And, no, I didn't see anything in black.Dan, I ordered the 1". I guessed the ARB top shelf is 5/8" thick (?; couldn't verify online). I was unable to take a measurement yesterday since my LC was in the shop and I just HAD to order it immediately!!!
I'll update you when they come in, and install is complete. I should have asked if they can make them black....
BAY2MTN
SILVER Star
Thanks. 5/8" works. I just went out to the garage and measured my roll top. (And, yes, I could have done that myself but I was too lazy to get out of my chair! LOL!). I measured the end cap to the roll top but I suspect it only adds about an 1/8" of an inch. I'm going to order the 1" fasteners. And, no, I didn't see anything in black.
Hey Dan let me know if you got around to installing these. The 1” worked perfectly in the rear of the drawer. I positioned them laterally as it looked easier to do the front that way. I may move them further outboard, similar to Markuson’s installation.
As for the front tracks...: I couldn’t get them in tonight. With the roller floor (ARB RDRF), there are supports on the underside that get in the way of the substantial bolt plate. I could have used a longer bolt, switch to a simple nut & bolt/washer (foregoing their supplied plate), or grind down the plate to make it fit in the limited space.
Here’s pics of the rear tracks installed:
Rear underneath looking up. a substantial bolt plate:
I’ll get it finished in the next day.
Last edited:
BAY2MTN
SILVER Star
Ground down the plates to install the front tracks (from 44mm to 37mm). I think it looks great. Could have laid them out longitudinally, moving them further outward, but this will do. I think it's ideal for a fridge. Hope to fill the space on the left with a normal drawer once my wife decides an extra seat is not needed.
This is extremely sturdy with the 3-bolt plate! And I did use the 1" bolts that are supplied with the kit.
In retrospect, this kit would have been preferred for my needs:
www.macscustomtiedowns.com
This is extremely sturdy with the 3-bolt plate! And I did use the 1" bolts that are supplied with the kit.
In retrospect, this kit would have been preferred for my needs:
Anchor Plate Assembly - 4 Pack
Add a tie down hard points anywhere with the VersaTie Anchor Assembly. Each anchor in this 4-pack is designed to a 3000lb Minimum Breaking Strength in...
Last edited:
I’m going with the slimline version of this hardware in lieu of the d-rings I have bolted down with the standard ARB hardware. My current setup is a little too low-profile to be effective as an actual tie down.In retrospect, this kit would have been preferred for my needs:
Anchor Plate Assembly - 4 Pack
Add a tie down hard points anywhere with the VersaTie Anchor Assembly. Each anchor in this 4-pack is designed to a 3000lb Minimum Breaking Strength in...
Question to folks who have used these (or the longer ones Markuson started the thread with). I am trying to design some DIY drawers that I can install and remove easily as family may require. TBH, I don't know how most folks secure the drawer carcass. Maybe RivNuts, maybe straps to tie downs, but these cargo mounts look like they might be able to snap the carcase(s) in/out pretty easily. Kind of like a ski binding concept. Do y'all think these cargo mounts would work well for that? Are the fixtures pretty tight in the tracks (I.e., no wiggling or squeaks)?
Edit: I'm talking about mounting those cargo tracks to the floor of the Cruiser, and the attachments to a drawer carcase.
Any other suggestions if how to do it?
- Thread starter
- #30
I wouldn’t trust the floor sheet metal with rivnuts for drawers.
Drawers really need to use the existing, massively-strong threads intended for rear seat bolts...which are what ARB drawer frames secure to. If you can secure the tracks to those...it could work. But the bolts are huge and would not normally fit within the track.
One thought...
—Mac’s Tie Downs can do some custom machining, and already ask where you want to put the smaller bolt holes within their track pieces...so they might be able to do something that allows for the larger bolt size of the seat anchor holes. I would call them and discuss it. They are quite helpful and great to deal with..
Last edited:
Thanks for the info on how the ARB attaches and the seat anchors
Here’s my Mac’s setup, 12” section. Three mounting holes, backed by large fender washers. Ratchet straps on the way. My only “complaint” is that the ends are unfinished. The “arrowhead” ends available to provide a finished look are cost prohibitive. Probably should have gone with the shorter version.
Thanks! I have been traveling to and visiting our grandchildren for about a week. Returning today and I plan to get to work in this this week. Thanks for the pics and heads up on the plates.Ground down the plates to install the front tracks (from 44mm to 37mm). I think it looks great. Could have laid them out longitudinally, moving them further outward, but this will do. I think it's ideal for a fridge. Hope to fill the space on the left with a normal drawer once my wife decides an extra seat is not needed.
This is extremely sturdy with the 3-bolt plate! And I did use the 1" bolts that are supplied with the kit.
In retrospect, this kit would have been preferred for my needs:
Anchor Plate Assembly - 4 Pack
Add a tie down hard points anywhere with the VersaTie Anchor Assembly. Each anchor in this 4-pack is designed to a 3000lb Minimum Breaking Strength in...
View attachment 2209387
View attachment 2209381
Here’s the
Here they are installed. A 1” bolt is too short, and 1 1/2” is too long for use with the ARB roller floor.
Last edited:
BAY2MTN
SILVER Star
That looks great! The 1" worked great for me, other than near the roller floor handle, hence the trimming...
I’ve got 1” bolts on now, but I’m not threaded completely through the nut. It may just be my OCD tendency, but I’d feel a lot better if I were through. I’ll be ordering 1 1/4” with the next order I place with McMaster Carr. This should get me through the start of tailgating season!
I joined this club... Fantastic solution and contributions from the MUD community once again.
While I used the 4 pack Anchor Plate variant, I'll share a couple of tips I discovered which should apply to other Mac products as well.
- Use the backing plate as a template for drilling your holes. I first used the anchor plate itself, but found that it allows for 'wiggle room' in the spacing of the holes and did not line up perfectly with the backing plate which has the threaded bolt receiver. Easy enough fix, but using the backing plate will ensure you get the pilot holes in the correct location the first time (a smaller pilot hole will also ensure you don't damage the threads in the backing plate, then you can bore it out to appropriate size after removing the backing plate).
- I do not have the rolling drawer top, just the fixed top. But for both tops, this is a 'measure twice - cut once' scenario to ensure you don't have any interference with the steel frame of the drawer box once you reapply the top. And, stating the obvious, you'll want to place according to your intended use e.g. fridge, dog kennel, general cargo, etc...
- also worth noting should anyone plan on using ARB's sliding table insert, there may be interference issues with the Mac backing plate (not a vendor endorsement for the table insert, just a quick google search result with decent product details)
edit:
- Regarding the 1" bolt, it worked fine for me. I used a Milwaukee cordless drill driver to tighten as much as possible, then finished with an oversized Philips screwdriver and turned another 1 to 1.5 turns by hand. Most were flush with the bottom of the backing plate receiver, but 1 or 2 bolts still showed about 1 thread/turn exposed - but still had 4 to 5 threads engaged and should be good enough for my needs.
Or just follow @Markuson 's lead and bolt down Mac tracks everywhere to cover all possible scenarios
While I used the 4 pack Anchor Plate variant, I'll share a couple of tips I discovered which should apply to other Mac products as well.
- Use the backing plate as a template for drilling your holes. I first used the anchor plate itself, but found that it allows for 'wiggle room' in the spacing of the holes and did not line up perfectly with the backing plate which has the threaded bolt receiver. Easy enough fix, but using the backing plate will ensure you get the pilot holes in the correct location the first time (a smaller pilot hole will also ensure you don't damage the threads in the backing plate, then you can bore it out to appropriate size after removing the backing plate).
- I do not have the rolling drawer top, just the fixed top. But for both tops, this is a 'measure twice - cut once' scenario to ensure you don't have any interference with the steel frame of the drawer box once you reapply the top. And, stating the obvious, you'll want to place according to your intended use e.g. fridge, dog kennel, general cargo, etc...
- also worth noting should anyone plan on using ARB's sliding table insert, there may be interference issues with the Mac backing plate (not a vendor endorsement for the table insert, just a quick google search result with decent product details)
edit:
- Regarding the 1" bolt, it worked fine for me. I used a Milwaukee cordless drill driver to tighten as much as possible, then finished with an oversized Philips screwdriver and turned another 1 to 1.5 turns by hand. Most were flush with the bottom of the backing plate receiver, but 1 or 2 bolts still showed about 1 thread/turn exposed - but still had 4 to 5 threads engaged and should be good enough for my needs.
Or just follow @Markuson 's lead and bolt down Mac tracks everywhere to cover all possible scenarios
Last edited:
Great thread here.
Ordered the full ARB drawer setup this morning, and 2 sets of MAC's tie downs (went with the low profile) a few minutes ago. Excited to get all installed.
Ordered the full ARB drawer setup this morning, and 2 sets of MAC's tie downs (went with the low profile) a few minutes ago. Excited to get all installed.
Where did you end up getting the drawers?
- Thread starter
- #40
Nice.
Honestly, despite lots of funny comments about overkill, and my own “steroids” thread title... -after having these in for several years now, it turns out they really aren’t overkill as much as they are just extremely versatile.
I can tie down oddly shaped or oddly sized items—wherever I want them to stay...because it gives me almost unlimited strap angles.
If all someone wants to tie down is a single item over and over? Simple points will do and this would be overkill. But if you vary what you secure as I do, this is the most versatile setup I’ve seen. I think you’ll be pleased.