Does this = new rack and pinion?

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Aug 30, 2020
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Location
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Recently our steering wheel was well out of alignment and the skid control had activated a couple of times. I had the car aligned today and the wheel is fixed and the car feels tight. However, the guy at the alignment shop - a well trusted guy and an honest broker - said the wheel being off was a result of play in the rack and pinion. He showed me these boots and said the wetness means time to replace. My questions are:

a. Time to replace?

b. If so, how urgent?

c. Is the "play" in the wheel the potential cause of the skid control being activated or could it be an unrelated AHC issue (bad globes)?

Truck is a 2003 with 321K miles - never had any major issues (I know these are maintenance items but just adding context).

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I’m also curious, because I’ve got some grease slinging from somewhere around the steering rack boot.
 
Mine started leaking earlier this year (but not as bad as yours). I added some AT-205 to slow the leak and ordered a rack during one of the 25% off sales in spring. It is still sitting in the garage, but at least I am ready to go. I am a huge procrastinator, so I will probably wait until it is dripping on the floor before I change it.
For your skid control activating, when were the bearings last repacked? Could they possibly be loose? I would check there first.
 
Mine started leaking earlier this year (but not as bad as yours). I added some AT-205 to slow the leak and ordered a rack during one of the 25% off sales in spring. It is still sitting in the garage, but at least I am ready to go. I am a huge procrastinator, so I will probably wait until it is dripping on the floor before I change it.
For your skid control activating, when were the bearings last repacked? Could they possibly be loose? I would check there first.
I had the front brakes done a handful of months ago and it started after that - could this be the source of the issue?
 
May I ask where you found this discount? Do they come around often? Thanks!
Follow this thread:
 
I had the front brakes done a handful of months ago and it started after that - could this be the source of the issue?
If they are not familiar with the 100 series then it is quite possible they did not get the preload correct. It needs to be in the 9-15 lbft range. It it is loose it can cause the wheel speed sensor to loose its signal.
Read through:
It it happens and the ABS light stays on, you will be able verify by reading the code if you connect a reader BEFORE you turn off your truck (it will clear once turned off)
 
If they are not familiar with the 100 series then it is quite possible they did not get the preload correct. It needs to be in the 9-15 lbft range. It it is loose it can cause the wheel speed sensor to loose its signal.
Read through:
It it happens and the ABS light stays on, you will be able verify by reading the code if you connect a reader BEFORE you turn off your truck (it will clear once turned off)
There are no lights on and the VSC has kicked in 3 times over a few thousand miles. I think it is from the rack and pinion causing the wheel to be off center?
 
Wetness around the rack boot by itself does not prove the rack needs replacement. First find where it starts: fluid coming from the rack seal and collecting inside the boot points toward the rack, while grease flung around the boot can be an inner tie-rod or clamp issue. With the front end safely loaded, have someone rock the wheel while you watch the inner tie rod, rack housing, and steering shaft; isolate the play before buying a rack. Since the steering wheel is now centered, the alignment itself is not proof of rack play, and the VSC events could be a separate wheel-speed signal issue. After the brake work, verify the front wheel-bearing preload and scan for ABS/VSC codes before blaming the rack. If there is confirmed rack-seal leakage or measurable rack/input-shaft play, then a rack is justified; if the play is only at an outer or inner tie rod, replace that component instead.

4x4 Rides in Hagerstown, MD parts out 80s/100s and ships nationwide.
I don't have the scanning software but I do have an OBD-II sensor. Would that work?
 
As others have stated, #1 most likely cause of this issue is improper torque/preload on the wheel bearings. Most shops do not set this correctly. Before you go chasing your tail, spend some time reviewing the proper procedure for testing/setting breakaway and re-torque both bearings/hubs.
 
I replaced my rack around the same mileage. VSC beeping was turning on often. It was weeping and also very vague steering.

I already had all new front end, save the rack and wheel speed sensors, so it was pretty obvious. Also went poly steering in the new rack.

300k seems pretty good for OE rack. No VSC oddity with new rack.

Also, you can do a zero point calibration without tech stream. There is a simple procedure than involves jumping two pins. It's on here somewhere.
 
Whereas I've seen bad R&P bushing result in VSC/ATAC (ABS) set off. We must think of the entire front end a system.
The first thing I look at is wheel bearings. If loose, wheel hub wobbles and sets of ABS.
R&P mounting bushings, R&P moves excessive side to side. Really bad, steering wheel lags coming back to center coming out of turns
AHC out of adjusted. Or shock shot on LC.
Ball joints, bad.
TRE inner or outer bad.

R&P out put shaft leaks, seen by looking at boots, which will be wet. We'll also see power steering resevoir low. But very often I'll see only drive side wet. Due to hose from reservoir leaking.

Leaky R&P and or it hoses. Can soak R&P and LCA rubber bushing. In time the bushing will be damaged, from leaks. We can live with leaks, but must keeps cleaning areas and topping fluids. Run to low and we damaged vane pump.

leaks. I start at reservoir and work my way down.
 
I wanted to test for play in my rack and pinion so we lifted the tire and when pushing it side to side saw this - wild swinging action on the driver side.



Upon closer inspection it is clear the bushing has been crushed - either from an oil leak or something else (time?). For context the truck has 321K miles. The passenger side had no play and the bushing was in tact.

So a few questions:

a. Can the bushing be replaced or do I need a whole new rack?

b. Would a new rack and hoses solve any potential leak regardless of how slow?

c. Is the car safe to operate until a new rack can be put on? It seems to drive fine and I assume unless I hit a massive pothole or jump a curb it should be ok?

Thanks!

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In doing some research it seems the rack is likely ok but the bushing was degraded from oil filter changes over the years. I am told an oil-resistant polyurethane steering rack bushing kit would solve the issue. Is that true? How big a job is that for a shop?
 
Yes, the bushing can be replaced. Yes, replacing the rack and hoses can solve leaks. I would not take any long trips with the rack like that. You can search on poly rack bushings pros and cons. No clue if it's a big job for the shop, depends on the shop and what they quote you.
 
Yes, the bushing can be replaced. Yes, replacing the rack and hoses can solve leaks. I would not take any long trips with the rack like that. You can search on poly rack bushings pros and cons. No clue if it's a big job for the shop, depends on the shop and what they quote you.
I am not convinced there is a leak. I think there may be residual oil from oil filter changes over the past 23 years that degraded the bushing. A new rack at the shop where I typically go is $2300. A new bushing like this one is $100 plus labor. Seems dumb to change the entire rack if one bushing is bad?? Can I push back the bellow and see if there is fluid - is that confirmation enough of a leak? Btw, power steering fluid level is normal and has not been topped off in some time which also makes me think there is no leak.

 
I replaced my 99 LX470 rack at 320K due to the input shaft seal leaking. I added AT-205 and it stopped the leak for 6 mo., whereupon the leak started again. I used an OEM rack and it steers like new now.
 
Yeah spray the boot with carb cleaner and get all the gunk off then check inside the boot. Bushings are easier and cheaper than the whole rack for sure.
 
I replaced my 99 LX470 rack at 320K due to the input shaft seal leaking. I added AT-205 and it stopped the leak for 6 mo., whereupon the leak started again. I used an OEM rack and it steers like new now.
Thanks. I pulled back both the bellows and there was no fluid. The power steering fluid reservoir remains full. There is no signs of a leak. The OEM rack in my truck is the best I can get - and so replacing the bushing seems to be the first thing to do. I just need to find someone who will do the work - shops only want to sell big ticket jobs like installing the entire rack.
 
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