Differential Support #2 Replacement (3 Viewers)

[Bluetribal]

The why:
Interesting Break

So while I was going to do an oil change today I figured it was a good time to replace the diff bracket with the newer stronger version that Toyota came out with.
Newer Part# 52380-60021

Before removing the original one from my 2005 GX I tried to search the internets for torque specs. But no luck so I put the torque wrench at 20 ft/lbs and checked and it would tighten, went down to 15, then 10 and all three would tighten? So I swapped the support and tightened them to just 10 ft/lbs. backed it off the lift when I was done and then in my flat driveway I switched from drive to reverse and was hearing a clunk. It always had a little ping when shifting to reverse but the three or four times I did it in the driveway it was really noticeable. So I must need to torque the three bolts down more. Anyone have the torque specs?

I almost missed the top washer before installing it.

 

[Bluetribal]

Some info from another thread.

The front diff support was revised for 2006 or 2007 and the old one is known to catastrophically fail. You have a 2008 so you're good.

 

[kbahus]

I can look up the spec on Monday if you can wait that long?

 

[Bluetribal]

Shoot, need to wrap this up tomorrow before work on Monday

 

[kbahus]

Well normally I am all for the proper torquing of fasteners, in this case I would go gutentight (in my finest German accent).

 

[Bluetribal]

I would think that too but the bolts were not very tight when I checked them prior to removing the original one. But that could explain why I had a noise when switching from drive to reverse.

 

[Bluetribal]

I will probably just keep tightening them and testing until the clunking significantly minimizes. And I think I will bring it down off of the ramps when I tighten it up tomorrow.

 

[khoaiii]

My buddy just paid $2,400 to have the differential replaced in his 2006 GX 470 (150k miles) at a local Lexus.

 

[Bluetribal]

Yikes! that is no fun.

 

[Bluetribal]

OK, found the answer in this thread on Toyota120.com
Kurtfab diff bracket - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

To install this bracket will probably take 30mins at the most if your tools are already out. The hardest part is to remove the skid plate to get to it.

You will need the following tools:
19mm socket
22mm socket
Socket wrench
Breaker bar (might be needed if wrench doesn't have long handle)
TQ wrench
19mm wrench
Floor jack or bottle jack that can reach to the diff.

1: Remove the factory skid

2: Support the diff with the floorjack so it doesn't hang on just one side. No need to try to raise the diff, just gentle position the jack to hold it at current height.

I supported the diff under the pumpkin to allow for more workspace.

3: Next first just loosen the 3 bolts that hold the bracket in place. The larger bolts that holds it to the frame is 22mm, the other 2 bolts are 19mm.

4: Remove the rear most bolt that holds the bracket to the diff. Next remove the bolt that holds it to the frame, this bolt actually has a nut on top of the frame, which is 19mm. I held the nut with the 19mm wrench while removing the 22mm bolt below. Lastly remove the center bolt carefully to avoid the bracket from falling on you.

Make sure to note the top and bottom orientation of the bracket. The new bracket will look a bit different, so you need to double check everything. Also check the big fitment washers on the top and bottom of the bracket.

5: Put the old bracket next to the new one and make sure you have the right side to the top. Also double check to make sure you fit the large washers on it correctly. The washers might stick to the bracket so make sure you have one on the top and one on the bottom.

6: Install the new bracket. Use the center bolt to hold it first and then fit the front and back bolts. First just fit all 3 bolts and then lightly tighten all 3 bolts.

Finally TQ the bolts. The 2 diff bolts (19mm) are 118 lb-ft and the frame bolt (22mm) is 101 lb-ft (remember to hold the top nut when tightening the frame bolt).

7: Remove support jack and reinstall skidplate. And feel comfy that you most likely will not break the bracket, which will take out your CV and sump at the same time.

 

[GXO]

I tightened them to two vein bulge and they seem fine. I lock tite the ds rear hex bolt as mine backed out once.

 

[half k cruiser]

Well I was going to ask if anybody had just beefed up the factory bracket by welding plate or rod stock into it. But one of the above posts answered my question. I'm guessing most of these break somewhere in the middle of the beam ?

 

[Sam Stewart]

Seems like that's a weak point on the 120 platform and FJC. I know a few people that have broken them.

 

[GXO]

I broke the PS (old design) and replaced it (new design) and it has held up.

 

[SoCal80]

Is the Diff Support #2 the only part that needs to be replaced? Any of the other diff support part need replacing on a 2003?

 

[GXO]

That is the only one with an updated part. I replaced all my diff supports because the rubber was dry and there is a tsb to replace them all due to a vibration issue.

 

[Bluetribal]

I believe you can buy just the rubber replacement at least aftermarket not sure about OEM? But I do recall seeing just the rubber for sale somewhere online.

 

[Sam Stewart]

I believe you can buy just the rubber replacement at least aftermarket not sure about OEM? But I do recall seeing just the rubber for sale somewhere online.

Can't buy the rubber separate OEM. Have to buy the whole support.

Source: I'm the OEM.

 

[Rolocado]

Anyone know what years the weaker part was? I have an 05 GX

 

[Bluetribal]

Yes, 03-05 the part was upgraded in 2006