Difference between 80 and 105 1FZ-FE Block?

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G

gunk

10 Year
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
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4
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I'm looking at ordering a brand new assembled 1FZ-FE short-block from Toyota.

I was under the impression that only the head was different but the short-block for the 105 has a different part number than the 80 block and is $900 less.

Anybody know what the difference is or might be?
 
iirc the late 1fz-fe blocks like they have in venezuela have a number of small tricks for increasing mpg. There's a thread about it here somewhere.
 
100 was the completely new IFS chassis and had the option of the 1FZ-FE (Straight 6 Petrol), 2UZ-FE (V8 Petrol) or 1HD-FTE (Straight 6 Turbo Diesel)

105 was basically a wider 80 series chassis with an updated body and you could choose from the 1HZ (NA Straight 6 Diesel) or the 1FZ-FE.
 
gunk said:
I'm looking at ordering a brand new assembled 1FZ-FE short-block from Toyota.

I was under the impression that only the head was different but the short-block for the 105 has a different part number than the 80 block and is $900 less.

Anybody know what the difference is or might be?
Click to expand...

It's funny, everything for the 100 is significantly cheaper. I was looking at 100 series H151 for my 80 but could never get confirmation if it would work... $500 difference...

I highly doubt the block would be different but i think everything else is upgraded. New intake system, new intake manifold, ignition coils instead of dist. cap, relocated fuel filter (instead of the PITA spot in the 80), etc...
 
Guessing y'all are in Oz.

1FZ-FE H151Fs for all series, except the 7Xs with HF1A mechanical cases, are the same.

Based on a recent discovery that a 1996 AUS FZJ7X 1FZ-FE is OBD I, thinking that's where they'll be different, since most the data I can find shows +'98 to be OBD-II.
 
Yes I'm in South Australia

All the 80's here are OBD I. The 100/105's might have OBD II but I'm not sure why that would affect anything on the short-block.
As far as I'm aware, the only difference was coil-packs and a CAS rather than a dizzy but all this stuff is on the head.

Different question:
Has anyone successfully fitted an 80 series head to a block from a 100/105 or the reverse?
 
Old thread resurrection for the record. I've previously used a 100 series 1fz-fe (GCC) empty block to rebuild my US imported 1994 80 series. Everything bolted up fine, and visually both looked alike iirc. When buying the pistons, I remember being asked if I wanted the 100 series or 80 pistons, as one of them was a bit longer. I was assured by the parts guy and a mechanic that everything would work, and everything did.
 
mbashier; do you recall which piston was longer (or shorter) for which block, and which you installed into your 105 series 1FZFE block?
 
Thanks.

Anyone know if the 105 1FZFE short block is available in the US at a lower price than the 80 1FZFE block?
 
Following
 
scottryana said:
I couldn't get head when I wanted it.
Click to expand...

You just weren't asking nicely enough.....

NA '99-end 1FZ head $1,763.00 (plus tax, plus roses, plus chocolates, plus some obscure, rare NIB NOS Cruiser part once or twice a year)

Short block is same price, assuming one could order and it actually deliver.

Need more than head, as I've no doubt you're aware, but don't think it's the 'better' option. When considering a similar move for the modern ignition, upon reviewing pics of an SA spec, professional opinion was it potentially a low octane variation.

Maybe good for boost, I don't know.

I do know where the epitome of a boost-able FZ long block sits, ready for insertion and all the PSI you can throw at it.

Overbored, balanced, cryo'd, blueprinted, ported, polished, all over the top. If the 2F I've driven is indicative the 'gains' imparted the engine 'build' philosophy on both long blocks, can guarantee she'll be a screamer.

$11k and it's yours. Would throw in an H151F, so that there's not a 33% loss at the A343F, for the same money.
 
SO the 105 head may or may not be better for more boost, the combustion chamber design is definitely better from a detonation standpoint, but nothing an 80 head couldn't be resolved of with some porting. The 105 pistons are shorter, making the engine possibly a little more easier revving, but decreasing the piston top and lands strength as well as increasing piston rock in the bore slightly reducing longevity. The gains would be not having the distributor which would/could be a plus for people thinking about stand-alone ECU's and COP ignition....

I am way beyond any of these points since I have bought a new 80 head, the appropriate pistons, rods, etc, but if I was starting from scratch I would likely just do the 105 head since the combustion chambers are so nice, but just adding them to an 80 block would result in very low compression likely in the 8:1's.

Delancy said:
You just weren't asking nicely enough.....

NA '99-end 1FZ head $1,763.00 (plus tax, plus roses, plus chocolates, plus some obscure, rare NIB NOS Cruiser part once or twice a year)

Short block is same price, assuming one could order and it actually deliver.

Need more than head, as I've no doubt you're aware, but don't think it's the 'better' option. When considering a similar move for the modern ignition, upon reviewing pics of an SA spec, professional opinion was it potentially a low octane variation.

Maybe good for boost, I don't know.

I do know where the epitome of a boost-able FZ long block sits, ready for insertion and all the PSI you can throw at it.

Overbored, balanced, cryo'd, blueprinted, ported, polished, all over the top. If the 2F I've driven is indicative the 'gains' imparted the engine 'build' philosophy on both long blocks, can guarantee she'll be a screamer.

$11k and it's yours. Would throw in an H151F, so that there's not a 33% loss at the A343F, for the same money.
Click to expand...
 
Kernal said:
mbashier; do you recall which piston was longer (or shorter) for which block, and which you installed into your 105 series 1FZFE block?
Click to expand...


As for the length of the piston, It was several years ago and I can't remember which was longer, but scottryana got that one covered for you.



Now that I think about it, I remember sticking with the original (used) pistons that came with the 100 series block and used the 80 series crankshaft and head. The 80 came with a bad piston and i bought the used 100 short block with a bad connecting rod. The machine shop told me everything else was within spec, so I put the two together. So basically a 80 head + 100 series block and pistons + 80 series crankshaft.
 
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