Did I do the right thing?

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Time for a "real" mod!

Look what followed me home yesterday.

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Yes you can fit a Slee front bumper in the trunk (and back seat) of a Camry.

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But it looks much better on the front of my 80!

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That is great. I might take some measurements off of your bumper and mod them to work on my FJC. Can't spend 1500 to buy an ARB, but Can sure fabricate my own for 200 bucks.
 
Did a few things this week, just wanting to have it more "ready" for SnT.

I'd been having a rough idle when I came to a stop after warmed up. Was worried it might be the AFM, which someone had opened up and messed with previously. Then I saw another thread with suggestions for causes of rough idle, so I took a look at the EGR. Sure enough, I pulled the vacuum hose off the EGR valve, and the idle smoothed out right away.

I took the Back Pressure Modulator Valve apart and this is what I saw.
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It was totally blown out, replaced it, and now everything seems to be operating properly. I know some would say, why not bypass the EGR, but I like to keep things working as designed.

I also went ahead and ordered the little windshield washer valve and replaced it at the same time. Pulled the old one apart and found it totally rusted out.
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The little plunger that the windings are supposed to move was locked in place. Remember in elementary school they taught us that water and electricity don't mix? Someone must have forgot that lesson.:doh:
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This thread got me looking at the rig some more, so I decided to remove a couple unnecessary items.

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Did you see what's missing?












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I think it looks better without the little fender flare extenders. I actually found out they came with the accessory running boards, so that was their original purpose.
What does MUD say about having them on or off?
Do they serve some function without the running boards?
Do they add another measure of protection for the fender flares?
Am I just asking dumb questions?
 
Hey t-don, I enjoy reading ur revival project. Sounds like u r doing a great job fixing all the little things that are wrong. The 80 is looking clean.
 
This thread got me looking at the rig some more, so I decided to remove a couple unnecessary items.
Did you see what's missing?
I think it looks better without the little fender flare extenders. I actually found out they came with the accessory running boards, so that was their original purpose.
What does MUD say about having them on or off?
Do they serve some function without the running boards?
Do they add another measure of protection for the fender flares?
Am I just asking dumb questions?

Removed mine when the running boards went. Think they are purely for cosmetics and tying into the factory boards look. If you look your door flares drain just fine.

I too prefer the without look.
 
Hey t-don, I enjoy reading ur revival project. Sounds like u r doing a great job fixing all the little things that are wrong. The 80 is looking clean.

Thanks!

Did you ever get the overheating problem solved?

It was solved when I replaced the radiator. Been running just a tick below center ever since.

The A/C issue is still occurring, though. Sometimes it blows cold, sometimes it doesn't. I think it may just be low on R-134A, but haven't taken the time to check.

Removed mine when the running boards went. Think they are purely for cosmetics and tying into the factory boards look. If you look your door flares drain just fine.

I too prefer the without look.

I did find out one thing you need to do if you remove these. :o I closed one of the back doors today and saw the flare kind of bounce. That's when I realized the machine screw that held the extension in place, also holds the flare to the bracket. :doh: Luckily, I save everything, and it just took a minute to reinstall them.
 
Did a few things this week, just wanting to have it more "ready" for SnT.

In light of getting ready for Surf 'n' Turf, I wanted to be prepared for the treacherous water crossing. ;)

So one of the projects I did on Saturday, was extend the diff breathers and trans/transfer breathers. I did the simplest method possible; removed the spring stoppers in both valves, ran a line from the rear teed into the line from the front, teed the trans & transfer into one extender line, and zip tied everything in place. It still cost almost $50 for 25 feet of 1/4" fuel line & 2 brass tees, and took about 1.5 hours with the Cruiser on a hoist.

I'll try to get a pic or two, was in too big a hurry during the process to stop for the camera.
 
Okay, I don't shrink back from mods that can improve on the original design. There's at least some anecdotal evidence that leaving the spring-loaded stopper valves in place can contribute to a build up of vacuum in the differentials. This has been blamed for the transfer of birf grease into the differential gear oil, a problem this rig has. In fact, there was grease/oil inside the stopper valve when I pulled it apart.

Now, when it comes to emission components, I'd rather restore them to their original condition. A police officer is not above the law, I don't think a smog tech should try to be either.
 
Decided to trim some fat, since we're trying to take a snow run for New Years day.

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My plan is to get the 4X4 Labs kit and start installing that soon, so this was kind of a first step to get me motivated that direction. :cool:
 
Much better with that spare put inside. You would have been dragging ass in the snow. Good day. Nothing like watching kids throw snow balls at eachother's faces and a few good punches in the arm in return.
 
Time to update this project.

The other day I decided to un-paint the rear wind deflector.

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It was peeling and needed to be cleaned up.

Ended up with kind of a brushed finish after careful sanding, in a straight line.

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Mounted up, I'll see how I like it, may end up painting black again, or see about powder coating.

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