Dead clutch pedal, can't get into gear

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TacoJonn

TacoJonn

Joined
Jan 19, 2017
Threads
15
Messages
98
Location
Wyoming
Took the FJ out today. As I started driving I noticed the clutch pedal had a lot more travel than normal before the clutch would actually engage. Essentially the pedal was dead and only the last 10-20 percent of pedal travel actually did anything whereas before it took a good bit of effort to shift gears given the resistance of the clutch pedal.
As I turned back around to go home I noticed I couldn't shift into gear hardly at all. Had to limp the FJ back into my garage (luckily I stayed close to home on this drive).

Anyone know what may be the cause?
 
Awesome thank you. I recently inherited this FJ from my father who passed away. I am not too mechanicallly inclined so I will probably have to take it into a shop. Do you know an approximate cost it might be to have done?
 
before you replace all, take a look at the clutch master to see what the fluid level is. Look under the dash to see if the master might be leaking past the seals and dripping on the inner firewall(indicates you MAY need to replace the master(if you can't find a rebuild kit)).
Check the slave area to see if that is the one leaking(cheaper than replacing the master)---Both of these are still available from Aisin--I think the hydraulics division making the slaves is now called Advics) They were the OEM suppliers, so buy from them if you can---
 
OEM slave cylinder is ~$100, after market ~$30. Since this sits under the body on the side of the transmission it's the more likely culprit. Follow the hard line from the master on the driver's side of the firewall. It will lead to the passenger side, connect to a rubber soft line and then to the slave cylinder. If you see any fluid around the rubber boot the seals inside are toast. This probably a 1 hour job at a competent shop.

What year is your 40? I was just looking up the after market slave cylinders but they have different ones dependingding on the year/transmission.
 
Is this the fluid reservoir I should check? Forgive my mechanical ignorance. I have a '78.

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Yes, that is the clutch master. The fluid only is showing at the very bottom, so you do have a leak to find.

Don
 
Also learning to drive a manual without the use of the clutch pedal is a useful skill
 
Had the same type of issue with my '70. I had replaced my slave cylinder and had the clutch engage so I could move the knob into any gear, stop and start without the clutch in. My slave is on the left side of the engine. Just follow the line down. If you are replacing the master it is not hard at all. I'm just learning and I did it. Now I'm on to wheel cylinders. lol
Just ask, the guys on here are great help.
 
Float the gears. And start the engine with it in gear if you can't time stoplights.
I rarely use the clutch after pulling away.
 
Driving without the clutch: You have to be one with the tranny. The clutch is between your right foot and right hand! Get the right revs, let go of the throttle at just the right time and feel your way through the gears. I used to practice it all the time in my old Datsun zcar. I have to admit, the skill has come in handy more than once.

Or as Chevy Chase says "Be the Ball"
 
I think I am going to try to get down to my trusted mechanic who's shop is only a few blocks from my house. Could I fill up the reservoir and limp it down there you think?
 
Depends on how bad the leak is. I did exactly that when my 2003 Frontier stranded me a couple weeks ago. Thankfully I was able to get it to a Walmart parking lot and topped up an empty resivoir, pumped the clutch a few times and I was able to get it home.
 
Look inside at the firewall, if the master is leaking there will be fluid inside...depending how long missing paint.

If the slave is leaking, it will be wet with brake fluid.

Unless the hose is blown, yes you can drive it, just fill up and bleed the slave...you will probably get the pedal back unless the leak is huge

Or drive without as above.

Best to replace master and slave together. However the master looks almost new.....so my guess it the slave
 
Landpimp said:
Look inside at the firewall, if the master is leaking there will be fluid inside...depending how long missing paint.

If the slave is leaking, it will be wet with brake fluid.

Unless the hose is blown, yes you can drive it, just fill up and bleed the slave...you will probably get the pedal back unless the leak is huge

Or drive without as above.

Best to replace master and slave together. However the master looks almost new.....so my guess it the slave
Click to expand...

I looked under the firewall and there is no leaking coming into the cabin by the pedals. I am seeing some leakage on the ground in the middle of the truck however. Wonder if that could be it.
 
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