Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

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red66toy said:
Night moves. Sometimes the only time you get to turn a wrench is late in the night. Maybe it's the heady brew of curing paint, cosmoline, PB-blaster, gasoline, oil and rust dust, but it sure is intoxicating working on this old tractor. :smokin:
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Epic… :beer:
 
Trying to tackle all that a I can while the rig is down... a bit of a rabbit hole but I want to do stuff right while I have things apart. Its becoming clear there were many things that needed attention after so long of sitting and neglect...and maybe some not so great work that "high school Chase" did. hahaha
Doing the side cover gasket while that side of the engine has the battery tray out:
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@mattressking refreshed the SD40 . So excited to get this beauty!!! He did a great job.
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But while I am replacing the carb.. I should address the stuck heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold. Its stuck in the cold position, which is the worst position to be stuck in. So I am going to replace it with a spare manifold I have. It also had a stuck valve (in the hot position)... but I was determined to beat it. Electrolysis bath for 24hours, then lots of heat, oil, heat, oil... then brass hammer action.
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Electrolysis worked great!
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Then the heat and oil and hammer...And its free and springy!


Time for paint.
 
Question for lubricating the valve. I am guessing regular application of some kind of graphite grease is the ticket to keep it working? That seems like a high temp tolerant lube.
 
red66toy said:
Question for lubricating the valve. I am guessing regular application of some kind of graphite grease is the ticket to keep it working? That seems like a high temp tolerant lube.
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I have some high temp nickel-graphite anti-seize lubricant on the way. Seemed like the best way to go. :)

Taking off the old manifold I found this gem. Hoping I can get this fixed easily by a shop.
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While I have the manifolds off I replaced the oil pressure sender and put a new gasket and lines on the oil filter sender.
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Then I noticed the column shifter assembly had some slop and the firewall grommet is toast… well I jumped down that rabbit hole and started replacing parts! Makes a huge difference, that OG bushing was mega toast!
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New dust seal and cap:
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I need to find a suitable replacement end cap so all the grease doesn’t just leak out over time.
Definitely time for a new one:
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Some hardware came back from the platers. Had to mount the new ignition coil first thing.
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rainingagain said:
Looking good. Where did you source your oil filter lines?
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Nebar Hose and Fitting in Ballard :) . Awesome place. I brought in my old lines and they reused the fittings and made me new lines. They also made my custom AC lines in my FJ62. Definitely check them out for help.

Also, I finally found the water pump you asked about. ;) Took some digging!
 
Some goodness rolled in from @mattressking . I had acquired the SD40 carb without a name plate but ended up finding a name plate later! When the carb came back from rebuild…. It got its new name plate after who knows how many years of missing one. :) Excited to get this installed and see the gas in that beautiful bowl!
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Last of the parts rolling in so I can start putting it all back together! Waiting on a Radiator brace bar from Classic Cruisers and I think that is it!
Saw @TheNeek tonight at the local cruiser meeting and he delivered a beautiful new radiator drain valve for the 40. :clap: The original is on the right and it was rusted solid. Nic beautifully welded up a stainless pipe of the right length and we added a 80 series block drain valve at the end I purchased from Wits End. I think it will be a big improvement over OG system and it’s still a Toyota part. ;)
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First things first though. Next needs are to redo the front brake line (thanks again to @TheNeek for those supplies), and to get the exhaust manifold completed. One little adventure still to go with that (stay tuned).
 
The oil sender that was on the block was some super old aftermarket unit. I replaced it with a new OEM unit. However someone had switched the terminal to match the aftermarket unit. And a cruddy terminal at that. Thankfully I knew just the cruiserhead to reach out to for the correct electrical parts. @Coolerman not only had the parts I needed but they arrived very fast. Thank you Mark! :cheers: Super happy with this. The little things add up! :)
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Almost done with the new brake lines for the rear circuit. Photos coming soon.
 
red66toy said:
The oil sender that was on the block was some super old aftermarket unit. I replaced it with a new OEM unit. However someone had switched the terminal to match the aftermarket unit. And a cruddy terminal at that. Thankfully I knew just the cruiserhead to reach out to for the correct electrical parts. @Coolerman not only had the parts I needed but they arrived very fast. Thank you Mark! :cheers: Super happy with this. The little things add up! :)
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Almost done with the new brake lines for the rear circuit. Photos coming soon.
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Very nice. Just be mindful, if I am seeing right that there is thread tape on the sender's threads going into the block, that the sender needs to ground to the block to function and as such, too much tape will hamper the function. Likely the reason why Toyota in the late models went with a dedicated ground to the sender body.
 
locklaw said:
Very nice. Just be mindful, if I am seeing right that there is thread tape on the sender's threads going into the block, that the sender needs to ground to the block to function and as such, too much tape will hamper the function. Likely the reason why Toyota in the late models went with a dedicated ground to the sender body.
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Thanks for the tip! I actually used a compound, not tape. I'll check continuity :cheers:
 
locklaw said:
Very nice. Just be mindful, if I am seeing right that there is thread tape on the sender's threads going into the block, that the sender needs to ground to the block to function and as such, too much tape will hamper the function. Likely the reason why Toyota in the late models went with a dedicated ground to the sender body.
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Alright, I have continuity! Phew. :)
 
Got a replacement horn for my missing low side. Noticed this…. Anyone seen this before? Contact points seem to be all off center! It’s currently not working. I need to take it apart I think and clean it.
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Redid the janky job I did on the brake lines for the dual circuit conversion in high school . The old line went up and over the engine on the firewall but it was not well done and not supported well. I opted to rip it all out and do it right. Since I had the radiator out, I decided to run dual lines along the front frame like the factory. Came out great! I used OEM 60 series dual brake line mounts: 9048001069 and 9094901184, rubber and brackets. They worked fantastic. I used Nickle-copper line and 10mm fittings when I could. I did keep the factory 9mm fittings where I needed.
Time to install the cooling system, new fuel lines and intake/exhaust manifold components. :steer:
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Anyone know if a OEM belt is still available for the F135? I ordered a 9932301040 and that was definitely not right. Too wide.
Coincidentally, Anyone need a 9932301040 ? :slap:
 
red66toy said:
Got a replacement horn for my missing low side. Noticed this…. Anyone seen this before? Contact points seem to be all off center! It’s currently not working. I need to take it apart I think and clean it.
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I've seen the pads for NEMA 4 motor contactors float due to excessive heat and chatter(close/open/close/open), never a horn contactor...
 
Toyo_Judson said:
I've seen the pads for NEMA 4 motor contactors float due to excessive heat and chatter(close/open/close/open), never a horn contactor...
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Maybe it wasn't working and they kept holding the horn button down to get it to work? Who knows. I can see the plunger move a little when 14v is applied but no honk. I am going to try and take it apart and clean.
 
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