Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

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Last spring, when I encountered this issue, I found that the OEM speedometer driven gears for our 1970 were still available. Since I didn't want to pull the parking brake drum again, it was a matter of matching the the tooth count of the drive gear (inside the T-case) with the driven gear (plastic/nylon gear outside the T-case). For example, for our 1970 Toyota sold:
P/N 33481-60020 (09.1971 - 01.1979 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE (FOR TRANSFER)BJ40,FJ40,55; N=6,TAKING 6X18 Driven Gear

OR

P/N 33481-60030 03.1969 - 03.1974 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE (FOR TRANSFER) FJ40,55; N=6,TAKING 6X16,6X17,6X15 Driven Gear


By chance, did you change your Drive Gear when you rebuilt your T-case? If not, maybe the teeth on your driven gear are damaged.
 
Green Bean said:
Last spring, when I encountered this issue, I found that the OEM speedometer driven gears for our 1970 were still available. Since I didn't want to pull the parking brake drum again, it was a matter of matching the the tooth count of the drive gear (inside the T-case) with the driven gear (plastic/nylon gear outside the T-case). For example, for our 1970 Toyota sold:
P/N 33481-60020 (09.1971 - 01.1979 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE (FOR TRANSFER)BJ40,FJ40,55; N=6,TAKING 6X18 Driven Gear

OR

P/N 33481-60030 03.1969 - 03.1974 GEAR, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE (FOR TRANSFER) FJ40,55; N=6,TAKING 6X16,6X17,6X15 Driven Gear


By chance, did you change your Drive Gear when you rebuilt your T-case? If not, maybe the teeth on your driven gear are damaged.
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I replaced the cable and seals and gear. I think the issue is the gauge cluster. It’s very slow to respond to speed changes, and hangs at 20mph a lot. I am wondering if there is some old hard grease or something in there. Tearing it apart will be a good winter project I suppose.
Maybe a good and easy first step is to unhook the transfer case end and put a drill on it and see how the cluster responds.
 
red66toy said:
I replaced the cable and seals and gear. I think the issue is the gauge cluster. It’s very slow to respond to speed changes, and hangs at 20mph a lot. I am wondering if there is some old hard grease or something in there. Tearing it apart will be a good winter project I suppose.
Maybe a good and easy first step is to unhook the transfer case end and put a drill on it and see how the cluster responds.
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They are pretty simple to take apart and clean. I used electric contact cleaner on my number wheels because I knew the type I had would eat the grease but not the numbers.
 
JVZii said:
@red66toy Here is a video that I did on troubleshooting some of the issues I see with speedometers, it might be helpful.

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Thank you! I’ll check that out. :cheers:
 
@red66toy

I will be referring to your posts here in the coming weeks. Im gonna begin the 4-speed column shift process at the start of October. Thank you for providing pictures and detail into any issues you may have encountered and what you did to resolve them. One question that I have for now is if you removed the motor mount shims after you installed the transmission? Or do they stay there permanently? If one does decide to remove them, what issue would there be? Does a part of the transfer case or vacuum activated 4x4 hit something on the tub?


Thank you very much for your time and help.
 
DesertFJ40 said:
@red66toy

I will be referring to your posts here in the coming weeks. Im gonna begin the 4-speed column shift process at the start of October. Thank you for providing pictures and detail into any issues you may have encountered and what you did to resolve them. One question that I have for now is if you removed the motor mount shims after you installed the transmission? Or do they stay there permanently? If one does decide to remove them, what issue would there be? Does a part of the transfer case or vacuum activated 4x4 hit something on the tub?


Thank you very much for your time and help.
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Hey! Excited for you to swap the 4 speed in! Let me know if you need any pics of anything else I didn’t post. So the shims will be staying in. The point of them was to tilt the drivetrain enough so the range selector arm on top of the transfer case didn’t hit the bottom of the tub. There is a body brace right where the selector arm is when you do this swap and removing the shims would result in the arm hitting the brace. Some people cut/bend the brace for clearance. But shimming worked well and it clears great. Up to you on what flavor of mod you want to do. :)
 
DesertFJ40 said:
@red66toy

I will be referring to your posts here in the coming weeks. Im gonna begin the 4-speed column shift process at the start of October. Thank you for providing pictures and detail into any issues you may have encountered and what you did to resolve them. One question that I have for now is if you removed the motor mount shims after you installed the transmission? Or do they stay there permanently? If one does decide to remove them, what issue would there be? Does a part of the transfer case or vacuum activated 4x4 hit something on the tub?


Thank you very much for your time and help.
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You will also need to shim the radiator up or at least slot the fan shroud holes. My fan would hit the top of the shroud on big bumps.
 
red66toy said:
Hey! Excited for you to swap the 4 speed in! Let me know if you need any pics of anything else I didn’t post. So the shims will be staying in. The point of them was to tilt the drivetrain enough so the range selector arm on top of the transfer case didn’t hit the bottom of the tub. There is a body brace right where the selector arm is when you do this swap and removing the shims would result in the arm hitting the brace. Some people cut/bend the brace for clearance. But shimming worked well and it clears great. Up to you on what flavor of mod you want to do. :)
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Thank you for the explanation :] I wouldn't want to cut into the underside brace just so the shifter arm can clear. Gotta keep the body as unaltered as possible in my eyes. But I also don't want to have the engine tilted for the sake of throwing everything off a bit. I do hope the shims hold well and wont have any issues long into the future.

Skreddy said:
You will also need to shim the radiator up or at least slot the fan shroud holes. My fan would hit the top of the shroud on big bumps.
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Dang, that's kinda worrisome. Have you noticed the fan hitting the shroud since then? Does everything seem solid without issue? Thank you all again
 
DesertFJ40 said:
Thank you for the explanation :] I wouldn't want to cut into the underside brace just so the shifter arm can clear. Gotta keep the body as unaltered as possible in my eyes. But I also don't want to have the engine tilted for the sake of throwing everything off a bit. I do hope the shims hold well and wont have any issues long into the future.



Dang, that's kinda worrisome. Have you noticed the fan hitting the shroud since then? Does everything seem solid without issue? Thank you all again
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I shimmed my radiator up by installing a second “packing” under the radiator horseshoe (hope that makes sense). Haven’t had any fan hitting since then. I do have a 6 blade plastic fan as well.
 
I shimmed my radiator just like @Skreddy . Used one extra OEM canvas packing plate. Very solid . The engine really isn’t tilted that much. The spacers are thick washers. No worries with them holding up.
DesertFJ40 said:
Thank you for the explanation :] I wouldn't want to cut into the underside brace just so the shifter arm can clear. Gotta keep the body as unaltered as possible in my eyes. But I also don't want to have the engine tilted for the sake of throwing everything off a bit. I do hope the shims hold well and wont have any issues long into the future.



Dang, that's kinda worrisome. Have you noticed the fan hitting the shroud since then? Does everything seem solid without issue? Thank you all again
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Anyone have ideas on this sound? Everything is fresh but it seems like it’s coming from the flywheel/clutch area. Squealing with no clutch pedal pressure. It’s not the belt. Really hoping it’s not some deep bearing. I don’t want to rip this all out especially since all the bearings are new
 
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Well took the 40 out to meet some cruiser buddies. I could hear the whining the whole time but at this point whatever. It didn’t get worse. My appetite to take it back apart for whatever is screeching is rock bottom. I just need to enjoy it while I can at this point and that is what I am going to do… until whatever bearing is angry decides to die and then I’ll have to replace it. Hahaha
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It was such a blast to drive. It was screaming like a banshee on the highway with no hump but boy it was fun.
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I really love this truck. Next on the project is the transmission hump, then a new exhaust system.
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you think maybe its the throwout bearing? Does the sound go away when you press the clutch in? Sounds like something is making constant contact there.

It wouldn't be the rear part of the transfer case would it? setting a shim too thick for bearing pre-load and its too tight to turn? im sure you would have noticed that tho when you put the parking brake drum on and turned it a few times to see if it spun easily or not

edit: as if the throwout bearing doesn't fully disengage and is left too close to the clutch and its constantly rubbing
 
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DesertFJ40 said:
you think maybe its the throwout bearing? Does the sound go away when you press the clutch in? Sounds like something is making constant contact there.

It wouldn't be the rear part of the transfer case would it? setting a shim too thick for bearing pre-load and its too tight to turn? im sure you would have noticed that tho when you put the parking brake drum on and turned it a few times to see if it spun easily or not

edit: as if the throwout bearing doesn't fully disengage and is left too close to the clutch and its constantly rubbing
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Not the throwout bearing as far as I can tell. There is a gap between it and the pressure plate without the pedal depressed. The sound doesn’t change when I press in the clutch. It’s definitely in the clutch area. I used a hose and a stethoscope of sorts to narrow down the area. :) My guess is it’s the pilot bearing. I used the Koyo bearing in the AISIN clutch kit I got from CO. Maybe I got a bad one? Maybe it got a little off kilter when I put the transmission in? Who knows. Definitely will be keeping tabs on it.
 
If you didn't isolate the location, I would think it was belt noise.
 
pb4ugo said:
If you didn't isolate the location, I would think it was belt noise.
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Totally! Sounds just like it. I was definitely hoping that was it.
 
Ordered up an SOR stainless factory style exhaust system. It was a good deal for the price and bolt in. @tahoe40/45 had good luck with it so I’m sold. :)
 
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