Build Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

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Took out the old clutch slave cylinder. One thing I love working on this truck is I never know what I am going to find. First, the the slave cylinder has been slowly leaking. Second, I have been missing a bellhousing-motor mount bolt on the clutch slave. Which seems to be important in stabilizing the column shifter pivot as well. So double bad! Hahaha. Time to find a replacement bolt!
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Also, since I want to keep my OG tin cup clutch master and run a newer slave cylinder, the 11mm soft clutch line won’t thread into the 10mm female port on the newer cylinder. That means it’s time to get crafty. ;)
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Wildcat Walker said:
Custom hose?
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That is definitely one option. My preferred option is to find an adapter fitting so I could use off the shelf hoses. But we will see if that is even possible. If not then I will hit up a local custom hose shop.
 
peesalot said:
Cruiser Outfitters may have what you need. If not poke around, I recall threads on this years ago and there was a hose for this sold by vendors.
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I look around some more. That would be the simplest solution. It's definitely an oddball combo :D
 
peesalot said:
are you sure you got that right, the tin cup stuff would be 10 and the slave should be 10 on old and 11 on new ?
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The tin cup clutch has a beefier line, they are 11mm fittings. The newer slave is definitely a female 10mm fitting.
www.cityracerllc.com

Clutch Hose for 7/'70 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40

This is a recreation of the discontinued clutch hose for 7/'70 and earlier Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, equivalent to OEM part # 90947-02006. The spec is as follows: M11 x 1.0 female end M11 x 1.25 male end 17 5/8" overall length (end to end, including the fittings) The hose is DOT compliant. Due...
www.cityracerllc.com
 
Got the missing washer for the output shaft nut. I torqued it down some, but not all the way since that is tricky on the bench. So I left it unstaked for now until its installed. Then I can give it the full torque down.
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I also got in the inner seal from @cruiseroutfit for the vacuum unit.
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I found a suitable o-ring to replace the old one and I stamped out a new felt wiper ring using some leather punches.
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The replacement vacuum actuator rod boot arrived from Japan. Cool to see FJ40 molded into a part! :)
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I'll test the vacuum unit once its bolted to the transfer case before this all goes under the truck.
I have located a 4 speed flywheel and I will be picking it up next weekend. In the mean time I am working on other odds and ends... like replacing linkage ends ;)
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Nice work, Chase: Since I'm hot on your heels, so to speak, and following your excellent work closely... Curious on how you will be addressing a few issues: 1) Will you be keeping the hi/lo 4WD shift mechanism under the dash, if so, will you be need to lengthen the linkage rod? 2) Will the t-case, vacuum actuator, shift plate, etc. all fit without modifications to the body support or tunnel? 3) What will you be doing with regard to driveshaft /pinion flange modifications? (shortening the rear and lengthen the front).
Thanks.
 
Green Bean said:
Nice work, Chase: Since I'm hot on your heels, so to speak, and following your excellent work closely... Curious on how you will be addressing a few issues: 1) Will you be keeping the hi/lo 4WD shift mechanism under the dash, if so, will you be need to lengthen the linkage rod? 2) Will the t-case, vacuum actuator, shift plate, etc. all fit without modifications to the body support or tunnel? 3) What will you be doing with regard to driveshaft /pinion flange modifications? (shortening the rear and lengthen the front).
Thanks.
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Hey! Thank you for the kind words. Hopefully I am covering the important bits of this swap enough. :)
So 1: I will be keeping everything as is. I may have to lengthen the rod using some kind of screw on extension. It seems like those are readily available in the M8 size. Besides modifying the transmission hump for my 4-on-the-tree setup, I am hoping most things can easily be reversed if needed.
2: So this is definitely something that has been on my mind a lot going into this. I don't like to modify things too much. Reading on mud, and speaking to @Skreddy who has done the exact swap variation I am doing, it looks like adding a couple fender washers under the front motor mounts will angle the motor just enough to allow the T-case shifter linkage to fit without having to mod the tub. Also, you don't need to mess with the rear cross member. It will be tight but OK.
3: For he driveshafts, definitely going to need to get them lengthened and shortened. Since I am using the original T-case, I don't have to update the pinion flanges to the later style. Thankfully that all stays the same. For people that run the T-case that came mated to the 4speed, then I believe you definitely have to swap out flanges to match.
 
I put the washers under the front mount for spacers and it gave me just enough clearance at the rear crossmember and everything cleared the tub fine (not the tunnel though). I also doubled the packing material under the radiator mount because with the washer spacers lifting the front of the engine, my plastic 6 blade fan would hit the shroud on hard bumps. That’s a very unnerving sound.

Otherwise like Chase said, need a little lengthen on the t-case shift rod and the rest is pretty standard 4 speed swap stuff. The 4 on the tree adds its own complexity with linkages and tunnel mods but nothing needs irreversibly altered that you couldn’t go back if you wanted.
 
red66toy said:
…it looks like adding a couple fender washers under the front motor mounts will angle the motor just enough to allow the T-case shifter linkage to fit without having to mod the tub.
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It‘s funny how getting in the middle of a forest sometimes blinds us to the trees in it 😂. I didn’t even think of trying this when I was consumed with rebuilding my ‘63 45. Had a little interference with the tcase and the body’s tunnel cutout flange (I thought maybe because of old age of frame and body) so I trimmed the flange a smidgeon, a little lift in the front of the motor probably would have worked 🤷‍♂️.
 
middlecalf said:
It‘s funny how getting in the middle of a forest sometimes blinds us to the trees in it 😂. I didn’t even think of trying this when I was consumed with rebuilding my ‘63 45. Had a little interference with the tcase and the body’s tunnel cutout flange (I thought maybe because of old age of frame and body) so I trimmed the flange a smidgeon, a little lift in the front of the motor probably would have worked 🤷‍♂️.
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Yeah, @Skreddy gave me that idea. :cheers: I didn't even think that was an option until he mentioned it.
 
Went and visited a fellow cruiser friend the other day to come up with a plan for this early clutch MC to later clutch slave issue. He is one hell of a machinist and car guy so he quickly came up with a plan. We are going to make a little adapter that allows the M11 clutch line to work with the M10 slave cylinder. This allows us to use off the shelf parts when a repair is needed. :D
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Peeked up at a couple cylinder walls . I have no idea on the actual mileage of this engine as it was a factory replacement in the 80s and can’t trust these old odometers. Hopefully this is normal wall wear for an old motor?
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