Check Engine Light Came On - The Results (EGR) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 21, 2016
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190
Location
Memphis, TN
Hey Mudders,

In preparation for a long road trip, including a stop at Overland Expo East, I took my truck over to a dealership here in town (Wolfchase Toyota) to get the check engine light diagnosed. It's a 1994, so no OBD II, and I couldn't find anywhere else to take it on fairly short notice. Anyhoo..

Here's the list of stuff they want to replace with part numbers and cost:

Valve Cover Gasket 11213-66021 $33.41

EGR Valve 25620-66010 $256.55

VSV for the EGR 90910-12079 $141.48

EGR Gas Temp Sensor 89412-50010 $233.79

EGR Valve Modulator 25870-66011 $88.52

Intake cleaning $159.95

Labor is $690

Grand total with parts, labor, and tax is ~$1700

The tech said my truck is in REALLY good shape for its age, which is what everybody who's worked on it has said. They don't have any of the parts and have to order everything from overseas, but he said it was OK to drive in its current condition. I'm new to Cruisers, so I'm looking to the community for some feedback.

Thanks fellas!
 
Short the sensor wires together and plug the EGR line? That will save you about $1699 on the repair.
 
did you even ask them if they tested the EGR system per the FSM? Or are they just defaulting to replacing the entire system.

You know this, but throwing down $1700 to fix an EGR system on a 20+ year old vehicle is insane.
 
did you even ask them if they tested the EGR system per the FSM? Or are they just defaulting to replacing the entire system.

You know this, but throwing down $1700 to fix an EGR system on a 20+ year old vehicle is insane.


I didn't, and you're right. In Tennessee we don't have emissions tests or inspections, but there's a chance I might be headed west to AZ or (gasp!) CA. If I do, it'll unfortunately need to be repaired. @beno, Can these parts be sourced for less?

I only took it to a dealership because I'm in a pinch for time and I tried several places that said they couldn't read the codes since it was so old so I just said "**** it" and dropped it off at Wolfchase Toyota.

Complicating matters is the fact that I travel for a living and live in an apartment, so I have nowhere do do any work myself and less than no time to do it. LOL :/
 
I'd still do the cheap fix, then worst case you can be saving up for whatever needs to be replaced. I believe the CEL only comes on when the EGR isn't working, so it sounds like yours may have "failed closed" which is preferable.
 
hell you don't NEED to fix it at all really. Truck will run just fine without it and with the CEL.

I agree with others, there are a hand full of very simple steps you can do to diagnose the real issue. My bet is you only need 1 of those parts to fix the problem.

  • My bet is either the VSV (test is very easy to diagnose)
  • A clogged port in the throttle body (just blow into the two hoses off the modulator to see if any blockage)
  • Or a bad modulator (another simple test covered in these forums)
  • Last you can test EGR function by simply starting the car and sucking on the EGR vacuum tube to see if it engages, the engine should stumble when vacuum is applied to the EGR at idle.

These 4 simple tests can be done in your carport in under an hour.
 
hell you don't NEED to fix it at all really. Truck will run just fine without it and with the CEL.


Yeah, I'm not planning on having them fix it - at least anytime soon. They even said it'll run fine, the system just isn't working. At least they were honest about that...

I'll try some of those tests when I get a chance and see if I can narrow it down. Thnks a bunch for the advice.

For anyone else, keep it coming! I'll take all the tips and knowledge ya'll feel like dishing out.
 
I had an EGR code that was off and on for the past year or so. It would eventually go off with nice long run. Lately, and right before emissions testing, it was staying on and not going off anymore.

I spent about 20-30 minutes with carb cleaner and ended up fixing it. Been about 2 months since I've seen the CEL now. Here's what I sprayed.
  • Took apart modulator and sprayed all ports
  • Sprayed into all 3 hoses that hooked into modular
  • Sprayed throttle body
  • Sprayed idle control valve(unrelated to egr code, intermittent low idle)
 
From what I've read, the temp sensor and the EGR valve rarely fail. The modulator and the VSV (or the associated vacuum lines) are the more likely culprits. It's obvious the dealer didn't bother testing the functioning of any of it. And you can certainly find those parts cheaper. As for ordering from overseas, that's just laughable. I got mine shipped to my door from Amazon a few weeks ago.

:lol:
 
Don't spend that kind of cash on those repairs. As others mentioned do the EGR vacuum test for functionality and then either replace the likely culprit (VSV or modulator clean out) or place a resistor and disable the EGR system (that's what I did).

Also do yourself a huge favor and learn how to check the CEL with the paperclip method. It literally only takes a paperclip and will save you a bunch of money in the long run.
 
Don't spend that kind of cash on those repairs. As others mentioned do the EGR vacuum test for functionality and then either replace the likely culprit (VSV or modulator clean out) or place a resistor and disable the EGR system (that's what I did).

Also do yourself a huge favor and learn how to check the CEL with the paperclip method. It literally only takes a paperclip and will save you a bunch of money in the long run.

Thanks for the heads-up. Do you know of a particular thread on here that has a good explanation of how to read the codes?

What about one that details how to disable the system altogether? If I did that, would it be detectable by an emissions test? (In case I do make the move to CA or AZ?)
 
So, I drove up to St Louis for work and yesterday my LC decided it no longer wanted to start. Key turns everything on, but nothing happens at all when I go to START. Being out of town, (and pretty miffed that I literally just had it checked over at a dealership) I don't know a place to send it other than a local dealership. I found a dealership within that range of my free towing service that was open. I gave them a call and they suggested trying to jump it anyway, and to try giving the starter a good whack to see it the solenoid was stuck. (Something I haven't done since I had an old GTO, but I digress...) I couldn't get it going so I had it towed over there.

The guy who I spoke with on the phone yesterday called me and we talked about the situation, and I mentioned the CEL and the EGR diagnosis. He literally laughed out loud on the phone and commented about how irritating it is when dealerships just "shotgun it" and replace every part rather than figuring out what it actually broken. He said he'd take a look and see if it was something minor.
 
In the meantime....

IMG_6534.JPG
 
FAQ. Frequently asked questions at the top of 80 series page has lots of good stuff. There is also a thread that has basic troubleshooting that can be printed out. Forget the name.
No start...first thing people want to know is when the key is turned to on is the cel light up. It should be.
I don't think the egr problem and the no start are related at all. But I don't know much so....
 
Fusable links and EFI relay are the most common FWIW...... aside from old toast done trashed 15yr old battery.
 
FAQ. Frequently asked questions at the top of 80 series page has lots of good stuff. There is also a thread that has basic troubleshooting that can be printed out. Forget the name.
No start...first thing people want to know is when the key is turned to on is the cel light up. It should be.
I don't think the egr problem and the no start are related at all. But I don't know much so....
And yes, from the FAQ
Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck)
 
Order a fusible link even if the stock one works, replace it and save the old one.
Also try efi relay.
 

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