I don't see that as a problem. The original hole is still intact. As a precaution I'd probably grab some 5/8 washers and weld them on to be sure
Caster Correction for a 2.5" Lift
- Thread starter ZRotheohv
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- 2.5" caster caster correction lift
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I don't see that as a problem. The original hole is still intact. As a precaution I'd probably grab some 5/8 washers and weld them on to be sure
Tha,washer mod that I've seen has been basically elongating the existing hole and then welding a washer in place to capture the bolt. If the rack shows my drill position to be correct I'm not sure how durable things will be with just a washer on there as the washer would be extending beyond the edge of the bracket and only partially welded in place
That's good to hear because it's probably the route I'm going to explore as I readjust for increased weight. Have you had the 35's on there the whole time? How difficult was it to line up the outer races? On another MUD thread about it, someone speculated that they might be self- aligning, but I doubt that... but are they?
I also went with a DC shaft to address this. time will tell.
I was wondering about the same thing. How do i revert back incase? If i drilled and possibly weakened the stock mount.
Mine is the rig in question. 2.5 inches of lift (~23" from center of hub to bottom of fender) from the TJM 50 mm coils.
Alignment readout post castor plates install here:
2.5 degrees on one side, 1.8 degrees on the other.
Alignment readout post castor plates install here:
2.5 degrees on one side, 1.8 degrees on the other.
Mine is the rig in question. 2.5 inches of lift (~23" from center of hub to bottom of fender) from the TJM 50 mm coils.
Alignment readout post castor plates install here:
2.5 degrees on one side, 1.8 degrees on the other.
Looks like they were using the 98-07' specs? Why the difference side to side? Is something bent?
Oh, did not notice they used 100 series specs; may need to return to get another read out. Though she tracks well
I don't know why there's a difference from side to side. Theres nothing bent. What would even be bent?
I don't know why there's a difference from side to side. Theres nothing bent. What would even be bent?
It's normal for one side to read lower than the other. Looks like I fell short by a little of where I'd like to be. I'll make an adjustment for that as I'd like to be closer to 3* on the high side of the axle.
Contact me if interested in being the next guinea pig. I'll need an after alignment from you as part of the deal. Include your phone number please.
I believe your caster numbers could be off if you have a bent LCA or some frame damage from a previous accident. Other than that I guess there is just some normal variance. The condition of the bushings would probably influence the numbers too.
Control arm seems good. Had it out recently to put in new bushings. All bushings in leading arms are brand new Mr. T bushings.
All bearings and front axle consumable parts are new last year.
All bearings and front axle consumable parts are new last year.
I'll be a guinea pig if you need it. I've got the OME 2.5" lift with heavy springs. May not be a good candidate though because my alignment printout is post caster bushing install but my caster is still way out of spec.
Ok, so I was one of the guinea pigs for LandTank's caster correction plates and I finally made it to the alignment shop today. Looks like the numbers are just as expected.
The previous readings were .8 DS and .6 PS with yellow caster correction bushings. I replaced all 6 bushings with OEM before adding the caster plates. The truck feels much more stable at higher speeds and does not feel squirrely like before. It tracks pretty straight now but I have a bit of a drift to the right that was there before the caster plates. Need to rotate tires to see if that helps. Alignment shop said according to the numbers it should be drifting left!
Anyway, thank you to @landtank for coming up with this solution for us 2.5" lift guys. I'm very happy with the results. Here are some pics of the install and my crappy welds!
The previous readings were .8 DS and .6 PS with yellow caster correction bushings. I replaced all 6 bushings with OEM before adding the caster plates. The truck feels much more stable at higher speeds and does not feel squirrely like before. It tracks pretty straight now but I have a bit of a drift to the right that was there before the caster plates. Need to rotate tires to see if that helps. Alignment shop said according to the numbers it should be drifting left!
Anyway, thank you to @landtank for coming up with this solution for us 2.5" lift guys. I'm very happy with the results. Here are some pics of the install and my crappy welds!
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Thanks for the follow up. I don't think we could have had a better result concerning the caster numbers post plates.
as for the drift check the usual suspects, tires, tire pressure, brakes dragging and wheel bearings.
For others, you can see that you'll get a cardboard template for notching the original bracket for the bolt to pass through. Once that is done you'll need to weld my plates in place.
Thanks again for your help!
as for the drift check the usual suspects, tires, tire pressure, brakes dragging and wheel bearings.
For others, you can see that you'll get a cardboard template for notching the original bracket for the bolt to pass through. Once that is done you'll need to weld my plates in place.
Thanks again for your help!
One thing to add, you can see the witness marks from both the bushing on the inside as well as the nut on the outside which seems to be clear of where the new location is. I'm confident if you wanted to revert back to the stock location you could do so by just removing my plates.
If you prep your surfaces with a grinder or flap-wheel, you'll get much stronger and cleaner welds.
I did, I swear! Haha. I've only used a mig welder about 3 times so I'm fine with the results. Just need to practice. BTW, you should wear earplugs when welding, especially when lying down. I got a nice welding cherry down my ear hole. Slag is still in there...