Cardboard door panels don’t last 4ever, but this could

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We can accommodate that CB, it is big. I think you'll even be able to keep the stock speaker, just not the bottom basket piece. Looks like pic 2

3.webp


It would fit here with no problem.

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HorseHeaven said:
I want to mount this to the door, without the bootom piece, would their be enough room?

It measures 8X11 and about 3" high. With that height I think I'm ok.

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Not sure I would want to open the door in the pouring rain with a nice piece of electronics mounted face up on it.
 
NLXTACY said:
There is about 3.25" inches of available space at the seat mounts. Should be enough room to fit in a fire extinguisher.
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Without the bottom basket, you're at almost 5 inches at the front seat mount.
 
thatcabledude said:
Not sure I would want to open the door in the pouring rain with a nice piece of electronics mounted face up on it.
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May not be the right place for electronics like a CB, albeit a really nice one like you have. If you're out of room elsewhere, I suppose it would work. I'd probably consider putting something over it though. That said, yes, it will fit in the location.
 
Bite your tongue that's not a CB. That is a 10 Meter Ham Rig. That said I would never mount any expensive piece of equipment on the door panel. The shock load it would take each time the door closes is going to destroy it. Also the wiring for the power and antenna are going to be constantly flexing and won't last long. Mount it on the backside of the center console.
 
ppc said:
Bite your tongue that's not a CB. That is a 10 Meter Ham Rig. That said I would never mount any expensive piece of equipment on the door panel. The shock load it would take each time the door closes is going to destroy it. Also the wiring for the power and antenna are going to be constantly flexing and won't last long. Mount it on the backside of the center console.
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It's a CB, 10 Meter HAM, but so much more. I just ordered 3 of them for our investigations team, anxious to receive and install. My only reason for wanting a door mount was to free up space, but I after reading about the flex, bounce, that you mention, I'm not sure if it's such a great idea. Center console area is a pain because I am constantly parking, jumping into the back seat, and anything that is in the way is usually painful or broken. I've got to mount a laptop, new CB(+), 2 phones, 3 external cameras, dash cam, handheld video camera, handheld camera with large lens, Ipad, and still manage power for all of it, and have room to move around.

There has to be another 80 user that has a setup like this and manages it.
 
See that sounds like a fun as hell project. PureSine for sensitive electronics and ModSine for everything else. A good distribution panel, relays and circuit breakers and you are golden. Do up a new thread on what you are trying to get in there. I've done pretty much everything you are trying to do ;)
 
LandCruzrNY said:
It's a CB, 10 Meter HAM, but so much more. I just ordered 3 of them for our investigations team, anxious to receive and install. My only reason for wanting a door mount was to free up space, but I after reading about the flex, bounce, that you mention, I'm not sure if it's such a great idea. Center console area is a pain because I am constantly parking, jumping into the back seat, and anything that is in the way is usually painful or broken. I've got to mount a laptop, new CB(+), 2 phones, 3 external cameras, dash cam, handheld video camera, handheld camera with large lens, Ipad, and still manage power for all of it, and have room to move around.

There has to be another 80 user that has a setup like this and manages it.
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You won't be sneaking up on me in your Land Cruiser, maybe a lambo, or Aston Martin, but I see the Land Cruisers.
 
NLXTACY said:
See that sounds like a fun as hell project. PureSine for sensitive electronics and ModSine for everything else. A good distribution panel, relays and circuit breakers and you are golden. Do up a new thread on what you are trying to get in there. I've done pretty much everything you are trying to do ;)
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New thread started, looking forward to making it work.
 
LandCruzrNY said:
I'm fairly knowledgeable about adhesives, I'm surprised you didn't use Weldwood contact cement.
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I've tried weldwood with mixed results. 3M cleaners and adhesives have worked exceptionally well.
 
Someone mentioned Kevlar earlier in the thread. While it would perhaps add strength, isn't Kevlar more for "bullet-proofing" in this instance? If so, would the Kevlar be applied in a soft mat vs. with resin over it? Once you put resin on it and it hardens, doesn't it lose it's "bullet-proofness"? Is that a word?
 
No it would be fine, but there would be no need to make the kevlar hard, it could be installed under the door material as a fabric and would still provide protection. What makes kevlar work is that the strands are so strong they don't let the bullet through and the energy of the bullet is absorbed by crumpling the kelvar. Hold a regular piece of fabric up, push your finger into it and it crumples around your finger. This is also what makes soft bullet proof vests unsafe for multiple shots. The internal kevlar sheet wods up and if you are shot in a place with no kevlar the bullet will go through that material.
 
scottryana said:
No it would be fine, but there would be no need to make the kevlar hard, it could be installed under the door material as a fabric and would still provide protection. What makes kevlar work is that the strands are so strong they don't let the bullet through and the energy of the bullet is absorbed by crumpling the kelvar. Hold a regular piece of fabric up, push your finger into it and it crumples around your finger. This is also what makes soft bullet proof vests unsafe for multiple shots. The internal kevlar sheet wods up and if you are shot in a place with no kevlar the bullet will go through that material.
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That's great to know. I figured Resin would make it lose some of it's properties. Did some Google searches this morning for curiosities sake. What you said makes sense, install a kevlar sheet under the foam that is under the vinyl.

Ok musthave, any thoughts on trying this?
 
HorseHeaven said:
That's great to know. I figured Resin would make it lose some of it's properties. Did some Google searches this morning for curiosities sake. What you said makes sense, install a kevlar sheet under the foam that is under the vinyl.

Ok musthave, any thoughts on trying this?
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All good thoughts, I'm testing several different composite/laminate/fabric combinations, as well as revisiting some that went on the scrap pile previously. The paramount restraint is the total thickness of the finished panel. There are several maximums and a few minimums, but the main one's are related to fitting under the upper plastic/metal top pane, the gasket crush at the front of the door.
 
Sorry in advance if this was already covered. So I understand how this works...

I send you the plastic parts off my existing door (say, door handle/arm rest), LX fake wood, door pocket)...or whole existing door panel (?)...and for $350 you send back a ready to mount door on the new steel structure with new color matched vinyl to replace existing leather/vinyl sections?
 
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