Cardboard door panels don’t last 4ever, but this could (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

3-jpg.931722
 
Last edited:
Very well, items are all packed up, ready to send on Monday.

Just curious, when I receive it, do I just run the wires up for Windows and Locks?

Also, is there a good place I can pull power from to power the dual USB from blue sea systems? That will charge my flashlight, and my phone.


Your panels are finished, they look fabulous! Shipping them out this evening, you're going to love them.
 
Thread revival :clap:
 
As I begin my latest build I understand the need for replacement door panels. The cardboard solution still SUX and let's face it, stainless steel lasts longer. The new design that I am working on is made similarly but now I'm including a think kevlar mesh on both sides along with Second skin sound deadening material(S). So far I like the end result but I need to test it further. With the added weight it is a good bit more than the original and the original clips may need to be tossed aside in place of a better solution for fastening and affixing to the door. It's back to being an active work in progress though.
 
Oh is this the thread where somebody said carboard > steel for automotive applications? Yup, there it is. Post #5. The good ol' days of MUD 🤦‍♀️
 
Oh is this the thread where somebody said carboard > steel for automotive applications? Yup, there it is. Post #5. The good ol' days of MUD 🤦‍♀️

YMMV but I’m not up for building paper mache door panels. I like steel, aluminum, etc. The new nanotechnology stuff is cool, if I could build a bullet proof self healing one , I would. But...
 
As I begin my latest build I understand the need for replacement door panels. The cardboard solution still SUX and let's face it, stainless steel lasts longer. The new design that I am working on is made similarly but now I'm including a think kevlar mesh on both sides along with Second skin sound deadening material(S). So far I like the end result but I need to test it further. With the added weight it is a good bit more than the original and the original clips may need to be tossed aside in place of a better solution for fastening and affixing to the door. It's back to being an active work in progress though.

The holes for the clips are perfect for Nut-Serts for 1/4-20 I have been thinking of doing this too, but if you can make them cost effective I won't need to figure out all the stuff
 
The holes for the clips are perfect for Nut-Serts for 1/4-20 I have been thinking of doing this too, but if you can make them cost effective I won't need to figure out all the stuff
Cost effective :bang: . 😊 No promises. There will be options though. The 1/4-20 is perfect. It’s not as pretty as I would like, but it makes for a very solid piece.
 
Dang it. I just ordered some manual window door panels from eBay Australia and shipped them halfway around the world.
 
I'll be adding these to my vendors marketplace over the next few day's.

Complete, using your refurbished/refreshed plastic parts, fully assembled ready to put on $350

Steel panel POR 15 coated, silencer mat backing and upholstered, ready for your top panel, armrest and bottom pocket $250

Several benefits of refurbishing your old parts include scratch repair, fresh carpet on the bottom pocket, new upholstery on the top panel and the armrest.
Do you sell the cards alone, in case we want to go with non-stock upholstery?
 
Can it take a 9mm round? :flipoff2:

I like this because it lets me attach real s*** to the doors without worrying about damaging the panel.
My aftermarket speakers wouldn't fall out after crawling over lots of rocks n stuff...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom