Can the 60 series handle the wiring for an onboard fridge? i.e ARB/Dometic

[TheElegantFox]

I've been looking at coolers for overland trips and while that's more of a general camping forum question, some of the coolers are so pricey that refrigeration becomes an option. That being said, I haven't seen many folks talk about wiring in a 12v powered cooler into these rigs outside of fully custom stuff which has a new and unrelated wiring harness so the comparison is a little lost. On newer SUVs, like my brother's 4Runner, there's a handy plug all ready to go so most new rigs aren't looking at splicing in a hookup either.

Fridge Freezers and Coolers | ARB 4x4 Accessories

Keep your food and drinks chilled with ARB Fridge Freezers and Coolers. Built for off-road travel and delivering cooling performance in any environment.

store.arbusa.com

Electric Coolers for Camping and Car Use

Portable electric coolers built for car, boat, RV and camp. Reliable temperature control wherever you go. Find the right size for your adventure.

www.dometic.com

I don't really want to build out the back with a sliding rack system, but adding a port in the rear to plug a fridge in is something I could do. Has anyone gone this route or are coolers the way to go for more daily focused rigs?

 

[RevISK]

I've been looking at coolers for overland trips and while that's more of a general camping forum question, some of the coolers are so pricey that refrigeration becomes an option. That being said, I haven't seen many folks talk about wiring in a 12v powered cooler into these rigs outside of fully custom stuff which has a new and unrelated wiring harness so the comparison is a little lost. On newer SUVs, like my brother's 4Runner, there's a handy plug all ready to go so most new rigs aren't looking at splicing in a hookup either.

Fridge Freezers and Coolers | ARB 4x4 Accessories

Keep your food and drinks chilled with ARB Fridge Freezers and Coolers. Built for off-road travel and delivering cooling performance in any environment.

store.arbusa.com

Electric Coolers for Camping and Car Use

Portable electric coolers built for car, boat, RV and camp. Reliable temperature control wherever you go. Find the right size for your adventure.

www.dometic.com

I don't really want to build out the back with a sliding rack system, but adding a port in the rear to plug a fridge in is something I could do. Has anyone gone this route or are coolers the way to go for more daily focused rigs?

I have the Dometic (medium and large) and they don’t draw a lot of juice at all, especially when just on fridge mode.

I will absolutely be routing a plug to the back to run one in my 62.

I ran the medium one off the power port/cig lighter in my 40 no problem so .

 

[dbbowen]

I run an arb fridge on my 60. I have a second battery and ran thick gauge wire from the second battery to a fuse panel in the cargo area and run my fridge from it no issues. In 2024 though youd be better off just buying a bluetti battery or something and running the fridge off of it and recharging the bluetti as you drive. Maybe upgrade your alternator.

Now a days having a second battery is kinda dated. You can carry a lithium jump box and a bluetti battery in your truck and accomplish the same thing

 

[TheElegantFox]

I run an arb fridge on my 60. I have a second battery and ran thick gauge wire from the second battery to a fuse panel in the cargo area and run my fridge from it no issues. in 2024 though youd be better off just buying a bluetti battery or something and running the fridge off of it and recharging the bluetti as you drive. Maybe upgrade your alternator

Yeah, I was wondering if it warranted a 2nd battery and lines like that. This bluetti sounds like a route worth looking into.

 

[dbbowen]

Yeah, I was wondering if it warranted a 2nd battery and lines like that. This bluetti sounds like a route worth looking into.

You can get solar panels to charge them too i believe. Most of the buddies i camp with use the bluetti battery and just plug it in to charge when they drive though. Im the only one still rocking a second battery

 

[OSS]

Those refrigerators draw about 4-5 Amps while they are running on 12V. And they are off more than on as they cycle. I had an ARB fridge- until it got stolen.
I just ran 10AWG duplex wire all the way from the battery in the engine bay to where I wanted it to end.
12Awg wire would be fine. 10 was overkill but I already had it.
A 4 amp draw is like a 50 watt lamp, so it’s not too much.

I used a 4.4Amp solar panel to keep it running for weeks/months.

 

[RevISK]

I have a 100 w solar panel routed to a marine battery with an inverter on my tundra.
I love having power available at all times to charge tool batteries, run corded tools, plug in work lights etc...
Recently had both Dometic fridges plugged in for a few days, one in full freezer mode and I barely dented the battery over the nights.

A future upgrade to my 62 may very well see this solar addition.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Those refrigerators draw about 4-5 Amps while they are running on 12V. And they are off more than on as they cycle. I had an ARB fridge- until it got stolen.
I just ran 10AWG duplex wire all the way from the battery in the engine bay to where I wanted it to end.
12Awg wire would be fine. 10 was overkill but I already had it.
A 4 amp draw is like a 50 watt lamp, so it’s not too much.

I used a 4.4Amp solar panel to keep it running for weeks/months.

That's not bad. I also hadn't thought about these being theft targets, but that make sense.

 

[RevISK]

That's not bad. I also hadn't thought about these being theft targets, but that make sense.

to replace the two I have would be around $2,500.
I'm not rich though, I got them free through work. But they are incredibly handy.

 

[red66toy]

I am running a single battery in my 62 and ran wires back to the cargo bay for a fridge. A really easy project and worthwhile for a safe circuit. The fridges now dont take much power and have auto shut offs before they drain the battery too low.

 

[dbbowen]

to replace the two I have would be around $2,500.
I'm not rich though, I got them free through work. But they are incredibly handy.

I won my ARB Fridge in a TLCA Event raffle haha. Moral of the story. Go to the TLCA Events

 

[toy_tek]

I am running a single battery in my 62 and ran wires back to the cargo bay for a fridge. A really easy project and worthwhile for a safe circuit. The fridges now dont take much power and have auto shut offs before they drain the battery too low.

Similar - I added the arb power port under the passenger front seat and the fridge cord is long enough to reach to the back of the truck. Single battery, 15 year old Engel fridge, no problem. I think the wire I ran was 10ga, Bluesea fuse box at the passenger kick panel.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Similar - I added the arb power port under the passenger front seat and the fridge cord is long enough to reach to the back of the truck. Single battery, 15 year old Engel fridge, no problem. I think the wire I ran was 10ga, Bluesea fuse box at the passenger kick panel.

View attachment 3707199

Ah, that's really cool. It's also good to know that the fridge cord is long enough that the position doesn't need to be super custom based on location.

 

[RevISK]

Ah, that's really cool. It's also good to know that the fridge cord is long enough that the position doesn't need to be super custom base on location.

Dometic cords are 6’ or so. I imagine they are pretty similar.

 

[Hokie LX]

Just to chime in here. I have an ARB in the back of my 60 and ran a dedicated 8ga wire from my blue sea fuse panel up front in the engine bay to a blue sea accessory panel in the cargo area. I plug my fridge into there. I also have a EcoFlow River 2 Max that I bring with me on long trips if the truck is going to be sitting for more than a day and a half just to keep the truck battery fresh. In my mind they're nice because they can charge other accessories as well and can be taken out of the truck to power items, unlike a 2nd battery. I have pics of it in my build thread.

I would avoid using the factory wiring. Running a dedicated line is just less headaches, known to handle the load, and new wire compared to 40 year old wiring.

I used this accessory panel. It is powered constantly so I plug my phone in at night to charge while sleeping and can charge other items off of it as well like drone batteries, lights, etc.

Amazon.com

 

[RevISK]

Just to chime in here. I have an ARB in the back of my 60 and ran a dedicated 8ga wire from my blue sea fuse panel up front in the engine bay to a blue sea accessory panel in the cargo area. I plug my fridge into there. I also have a EcoFlow River 2 Max that I bring with me on long trips if the truck is going to be sitting for more than a day and a half just to keep the truck battery fresh. In my mind they're nice because they can charge other accessories as well and can be taken out of the truck to power items, unlike a 2nd battery. I have pics of it in my build thread.

I would avoid using the factory wiring. Running a dedicated line is just less headaches, known to handle the load, and new wire compared to 40 year old wiring.

I used this accessory panel. It is powered constantly so I plug my phone in at night to charge while sleeping and can charge other items off of it as well like drone batteries, lights, etc.

Amazon.com

That looks tight.
Saved for future reference.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I know fridges draw surprisingly little power for what they accomplish (surprising to me anyway), but all of the wiring gauges in 60 Series trucks was woefully undersized from the factory. At this age, it's all getting pretty crusty too. Here's my calculus on it...

Small gauge + corrosion = increased resistance in the wire
Too much current draw + increased resistance in the wire = heat
Heat + time = sparking, fire, etc

Will it work ok? Maybe. Would I trust it for my own purposes? Not at all. I'm now on a dual battery system, but even if I was still running everything off of one battery I would drop a fused, dedicated run like @Hokie LX did. And probably 8 gauge like he did too - in fact I did run 8awg from my second battery to the cargo area for accessories. It takes work: crimping the proper terminals, setting up a fuse panel or in line fuse, deciding which 12V wire to tap into, properly tapping into it, mounting power jacks on your cargo panel or wherever else, fishing the 8 gauge wire through the body (not that hard). It would probably take half a day. Is it worth all the trouble for safety? I think so.

 

[Hokie LX]

That looks tight.
Saved for future reference.

I have one in both my trucks and they're awesome. Huge fan of Blue Sea stuff. They also make my fuse blocks in both trucks. This panel makes it easy to see live voltage while the truck is off and fridge is running. They make larger ones also but this one I feel is a good compromise of size and functionality.

 

[RevISK]

I have one in both my trucks and they're awesome. Huge fan of Blue Sea stuff. They also make my fuse blocks in both trucks. This panel makes it easy to see live voltage while the truck is off and fridge is running. They make larger ones also but this one I feel is a good compromise of size and functionality.

I know about Blue Sea from my vintage aluminum travel trailer days.
They seem to have slipped my mind.

Thanks for the reminder.