Cam's FJ60 Gets a Heart Transplant

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Can't wait for you to treat Twin Hills like a half pipe!
 
what does the red wire connect to..I assume somewhere on the Toyota tach or "t's" into a wire?
 
The tach does not start smoking if you rev it past 4K:grinpimp:



During normal driving it probably never breaches 2000 rpms. 3000 is about the max if you're trying to drive fast.

You have to really mash the motor to go higher than 3K, as it just isn't needed.
 
It seemed to struggle recovering from the shift, but no more so than the speedo needle bouncing around.

I do notice that the needle bounces with the voltage when my turn signals are flashing. Maybe @TrickyT has a fix?
 
The tach does not start smoking if you rev it past 4K:grinpimp:



During normal driving it probably never breaches 2000 rpms. 3000 is about the max if you're trying to drive fast.

You have to really mash the motor to go higher than 3K, as it just isn't needed.


The RPM's jumped soooo fast. I am soooo jealous.

Love the sound of it man.
 
It seemed to struggle recovering from the shift, but no more so than the speedo needle bouncing around.

I do notice that the needle bounces with the voltage when my turn signals are flashing. Maybe @TrickyT has a fix?

Where did you tap into +12v for power for the tach?
 
I used my old coil (+) wire, and also tried the cig. lighter circuit at the fuse panel. Both have the same results when anything that draws current comes on (turn signals, wipers, sometimes headlights, blower on high)

I also borrowed a direct source to the battery (giant amp wire) and it could handle most of those loads by themselves, but not all at the same time.
 
So the bouncing needle could be due to a couple of things. The tachometer itself is connected to +12v and ground and either one could have a higher than normal resistance somewhere in their paths. Less likely is that the Dakota Digital tach interface is sensitive to its supply voltage and the output varies as a result. But I'd suspect the former before the later.

If you have a multimeter that measures frequency and pulse width duty cycle, you can connect it to the tach output of the Dakota Digital box and see if the output frequency and/or duty cycle varies when you switch on/off loads. But the Dakota box is obviously of modern design and should not be overly sensitive to fluctuations in input voltage.

So my bet is on it being the +12v supply or ground to the tachometer, since the wiring for it is older and more thus more susceptible to a loose or corroded connection. I know it's hard to access the connections at the back of the tach, but you should measure the voltage between the +12v supply and ground wires right at the tach and see if they vary as a function of other electrical loads.
 
Look at the big brain on this guy!

You don't even know who you're messin' with here. Nobel prize level stuff, he's not even flexing his muscles.
 
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One of those could sure help me in my day job though. Hell, imagine the influence that would have on NIH grant applications.
 
Tiny update: TrickyT modified my FJ60 AC amplifier to work without a tach signal. So now I have a 60 amp without the blue knob. It will work at any rpm.

Word on the street is that the modification was simple (though the research to find the fix might finally earn him that Nobel Prize) and he might be doing a write up on the solution in the 60 section.

The 60 is potentially better than the 62 amp because you can control the cut-out temp. Theoretically I could set it at 32.00001 degrees vs the 34 degrees of the 62 amp and spit out some slightly cooler air.
 
Tom is the s***. Nothing more to say about that. The man is a genius.

Regardless, Cam is now chillin' his ballz in the big MEM.

:lol:

And, I must say, after spooling this V8 up down his "hood" I can safely say that my 80 will now get a domestic V8 in the future.

That set up he has is just plain awesome.

And the dude did it right.

:)
 
And, I must say, after spooling this V8 up down his "hood" I can safely say that my 80 will now get a domestic V8 in the future.

:)

If that's the case, can I have my manifold back with the rest of the 2F attached to it?
 
Tiny update: TrickyT modified my FJ60 AC amplifier to work without a tach signal. So now I have a 60 amp without the blue knob. It will work at any rpm.

Word on the street is that the modification was simple (though the research to find the fix might finally earn him that Nobel Prize) and he might be doing a write up on the solution in the 60 section.

The 60 is potentially better than the 62 amp because you can control the cut-out temp. Theoretically I could set it at 32.00001 degrees vs the 34 degrees of the 62 amp and spit out some slightly cooler air.

See this thread for details on my A/C amp modification: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-a-c-amp-thread.855106/
 
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