Builds BJ42 To UZJ42 Build thread, V8 Engine swap, 1UZ-FE, A343F, HF1A, Electronics, etc.

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May 30, 2017
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Hi All,

Short introduction to the 40- & 55-Series Tech:

I’m Yves from the Netherlands, I’m an electronic engineer and am an electronic engineer with my own company. As most on here I love Land Cruisers and am the owner of a Land Cruiser HDJ100 with the 1HD-FTE 4.2L turbo engine. I use it as daily driver, offroad and travel/camping with a roof top tent. No camping places, only in the wild.

There’s not a lot of off road in the Netherlands, but me and my friends manage and visit offroad days and other countries. Somehow I’m always the first one through deep water and to rip his bumpers off.

I’ve always liked the older Land Cruisers, the 40 series, the 40 series pickup and the 60 series, or well, actually all of them. Recently I came across a cheap, very nice, rust free BJ42 from 1984, I bought it with a broken 3B engine, it’s seized, perfect time to swap.

The car is in good condition, I’d like to keep it just a little bit original. I’m thinking small lift, 32/33” mud tires, NOT cutting rear fenders, rollbar, original or 4 Plus style bumper and a nice soft ride. Oh, and a big engine made by Toyota.

For tax reasons I want to swap in a petrol engine. I like diesel but the road tax for a diesel is about €1800 euro and for petrol only €125 per year. There’s a bit more to this than only the fuel difference, but I won’t go into detail.

I’ve bought myself a nice used 1995 Lexus LS400 with the 1UZ-FE (non-VVTi) engine with 265hp and 190,000km/122,000miles on it. Bought it in the UK, drove it home. It’s a nice car with bad paint, interior looks like my 100 series and it drives perfect. It’s almost a shame to take the engine out and wreck/part out the car. But since the steering wheel is at the wrong side of the car I don’t have another option than to use the engine, ecu and hopefully the automatic gearbox in the BJ42. The UZJ-40 is going to be used for on- and off road.

I’ll still have to choose if I’m going to use the H55F five speed manual, or the A340 automatic from the Lexus. I would like to have an automatic and would also make a manual shift mode for the A340 transmission. That way I can just select a gear (2nd, 3rd) in low range and push the pedals. Also a replacement A340 is cheap, H55F is expensive.

Now the input shaft on a split transfer case needs a bearing (the H55F already has one. I was thinking of making my own adapter plate with one, like in these AA kits: 50-1701 : GM 4L80E 4 speed automatic transmission to the August1980-1990 Land Cruiser 19 spline transfer case,adapter kit. | Advance Adapters

Making an adapter plate with bearing for the split case is not a problem, making a splined shaft from the A340 to the split transfer case is also not a problem. I was thinking about using an AW4 tail housing on the back of the A340 transmission, mounting an adapter plate to that to accept the Toyota Split case.

My only concern is total driveline length, and related to that, rear driveshaft length.
I have no problem moving the engine forward a bit and using an electric fan on the radiator.

I could not find a whole lot on 1UZ-FE swaps in 40’s, so I want to share what I learn and how I do things. I’d also like your input and feedback and opinions on the project, helps me learn and do things different.

3B engine disconnected:
a.jpeg


3B engine out (using forklift):
b.jpeg


H55F and Split-case removal (don't worry, I did not spent time under there, front was raised to ride gearbox & transfer case out):
c.jpeg


H55F and Split-case out:
d.jpeg


The plan:
e.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Might find some info you need in my build (link in sig). Different engine and transmission, but same challenges regarding cooling, drivetrain length, etc.

Good luck!
 
Joined
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Huh. Didn't know the stock bumper would be ok with hoisting up the front end like that without bending. Obviously your truck and your choice but considering the recent value of a clean stock lhd BJ42 over in this part of the world, this probably wouldn't be what I'd chose as a candidate for this swap. that said will be interested to see how it goes.
 
Joined
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Might find some info you need in my build (link in sig). Different engine and transmission, but same challenges regarding cooling, drivetrain length, etc.

Good luck!
I have read your thread before i bought the Lexus when I was researching for v8's. Really nice project you got there. Mine will be a little bit less extensive I think. I also want to keep the original paint. But I'm really digging the colour combo of your truck. I also like that you kept it all Toyota.

Huh. Didn't know the stock bumper would be ok with hoisting up the front end like that without bending. Obviously your truck and your choice but considering the recent value of a clean stock lhd BJ42 over in this part of the world, this probably wouldn't be what I'd chose as a candidate for this swap. that said will be interested to see how it goes.
I rigged it up, tried to lift it carefully. It is worth noting that the engine was already out and the gearbox and transfer case were out on a pallet under the car. I only used it to ride the gearbox and transfer case out on a pallet.

I thought about repairing the engine and selling the car. But then I would have to buy another one. Since the engine is broken I figured this was the right time to do a swap. But no Chevy v8's, no german engines, a nice and solid 1UZ made by Toyota.
 
Last edited:

nogo

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And.....
 
Joined
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Thanks @nogo

I've contacted Dellow a few weeks ago. but haven't heard from them yet.
I asked a few questions about the number of splines of the clutch and the input shaft length.

If the automatic swap does not work out I will still use the original H55F 5-speed.
The H55F is not cheap, if I were to break it with more power it could get expensive.
I have searched in the power handling of H55F and have not found anyone with problems yet.

This thread is also nice, it shows how the 1UZ-FE can be coupled to stock 4-speed with "standard" parts.
The only difference is the splines in the clutch, I would have to find a clutch disc of the right size and the correct spline count.

I like driving with an automatic, especially for off-road, no clutch burning on rocksteps etc.
It also might be cheaper than $2150 + shipping to use the automatic instead of keeping the manual.
I will only need an adapter plate, bearing & internal/external splined shaft. It's way more work though.
 
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Took out the 1UZ-FE with gearbox this weekend. Actualy, I took everything useful out of the vehicle.
All wires, buttons, seats, wheels, lights, suspension, ac components, etc.

Start:
Start.jpeg


Finish:
finish.jpeg


Engine out:
engine out.jpeg


LS400 on trailer:
ls400 on trailer.jpeg


Scrapped:
scrapped.PNG


Moving on to fabrication and assembly from now on.
 
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After replacing the power steering pump, power steering rack, rear diff pinion seal and welding the swaybar mount back on on my 100 series, it's time to move on with the UZJ42.

First step was to clean the split- transfer case, a thick layer of black dirt & grime was on there.

1.jpeg


Then it was time to open up the case, went very easily. I did see some wear and play between the output shaft of the H55F & the input gear of the transfer case. Will get a lengthened one From Terrain Tamer on the new shaft.

2.jpeg


I've bought an AW4 tail of another Aisin transmission. It should bolt straight up to the Aisin transmission out of the Lexus.
Then I will need to make an adapter plate to the Transfer case, nice bolt patern.

3.jpeg


Did some measuring on the AW4 tail and the transfer case, and cut out an acrylic "adapter plate" to test the fit.

4.jpeg


As you can see the two holes on the right overlap but just slightly. Will have to use smaller bolts there or rotate the transfer case. Right now the transfer case orientation is level between the two top holes.

5.jpeg


One thing that came to mind while measuring all this is the transfer case height when mounted in the 40. The output shaft of the H55f is higher then the input shaft. The A340 Aisin box from the Lexus does not have this height difference. This will mean that the transfer case will be mounted lower in the car. I guess I will have to mount it and see how it goes.
 
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Well... that's a good question @cruiserjunktion

It would also be a possibility, the upside would be standard parts.

I could also buy a a343 (f ?) tail piece and bolt that to the A340 transmission that is attached to the 1UZ. I would only have to cut the shaft to length and fit a HF1A or part time converted HF2A transfer case. The hard part would be finding a tail piece, tips are welcome. Is the offset the same on a HF1A / HF2A & the split case?
 

flx

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considering the recent value of a clean stock lhd BJ42 over in this part of the world
In this other part of the world diesel Land Cruiser are very very common and petrol ones are rare so the value of old cruisers depending of petrol/diesel is inverted :)
 
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I was a bit worried about drivetrain length, so I tried fitting the engine.
I don't think drivetrain length will be a big problem as long as I shift the engine a bit forward (towards radiator).
The 1UZ stock fan is probably too big, so I might have to run electric fans on my radiator.

Here is the engine in the 40:
1.jpg


An engine that fills up the engine bay:
2.jpg


There is a clearance issue with height. The oil pan will hit the diff or the bellhousing will hit the body. I will have to do a suspension lift, body lift or both.
4.jpg


It's close on the power steering pump:
5.jpg


For measuring I shifted the engine as far towards the radiator as possible:
3.jpg


The distance from the gearbox end (without tailpiece) to the rear diff pinion flange is about 90 to 95cm.
The end of the gearbox in now in line with the old gearbox mounts. The output flange from the Split case was 47cm behind the gearbox mounts.

I have bought an A343F transmission with HF2A transfer case out of a 1999 100 series. I think I'll sell the HF2A and bolt on a part time HF1A transfer case if I can source one. I could also make it a full time 4WD vehicle with center diff lock. Is there any reason not to do that?
 
Joined
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There is a clearance issue with height. The oil pan will hit the diff or the bellhousing will hit the body. I will have to do a suspension lift, body lift or both.
What would a body lift help? ;) Modify the oil pan or install lift springs and limit the uptravel.
I could also make it a full time 4WD vehicle with center diff lock. Is there any reason not to do that?
Why not, would be good with that much power.
 
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So my A343F & HF2A out of a 100 series from Sweden just arrived.
a.jpeg


I think I will also get a rear sump like the left one in this picture:
Capture.PNG


Or I could go this route:
1UZ-FE-rear-oil-pan.jpg


It has some baffles and more oil capacity. Will I benefit from this on off camber or steep hills, will the stock pan be sufficient?
 
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I've been busy with work but was able to squeeze some UZJ42 time in there.
The 100 series A343F & HF2A are coupled to the 1UZ, bolted on as expected.

The A343F from the 100 series has 2 less pins in the solenoid connector at the rear of the case. These two pins turn out to be for a temperature sensor/sender/switch. I could just hook one up in the lines to the cooler. Two red circled pins in the picture below.
solenoid connector.jpeg


Took off the fenders.
fenders.jpeg


Then I put the engine, transmission & transfercase in and started to measure the engine and transfercase mounts.
The transfercase mount is flush with bottom frame rails. I used a C-channel and bolted that to the chassis and transfer case mount.
Part not finished, will take some pictures soon.

For the motormounts I cut some plate and used a bit of C channel. Engine & driveline are tilted backwards 4-5 degrees.
C-channel used for mounts is tilted 14 degrees down. I think I'll weld on these motor mounts, of I will figure out an easy way to bolt them up.

Mounts mocked up:
em1.jpeg


I'll mount two plates as braces om the position of the red lines:
em4.jpeg


Borrowed a TIG and started practicing:
em5.png


Planning on attaching the mounts next weekend.

I'm also busy drawing the rear sump oil pan, will have it laser cut and I'll weld it up.
 
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I've been busy last sunday. I finished the motor mounts, they are mounted in 5x m8 tapped thread now. I will make some bushings that will fit in the frame so I can bolt the mounts through the frame. Below you can see the right side motor mount:
steun.jpeg


The engine resting on the mounts:
motor r.jpeg

It fits very good, the rear driveshaft is just a little bit shorter than stock. Transfer case mount does need some tweaking, at the moment there is about 1mm between top of the transmission and the body, I will drop the mount a bit.

Below you see the engine resting on the mount. All angles are correct and it's solid. Don''t worry, the zip-tie is only holding the brakeline to the side.
tyrap.jpeg


I will have to shift the Power Steering box to the left (drivers side) about 2.5cm or 1inch. I removed it to fit the engine, it was touching the exhaust manifold.
shift the power steering box.jpeg


Yeah, the oil pan is hitting the diff, custom oil pan is coming:
yeah, its hitting.jpeg
 
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Just made the transfer case mount, I'll bolt it to the frame.
I've got 15mm of clearance between the body and the transfer case/transmission.

Layed out, ready to weld:
WhatsApp Image 2020-03-16 at 13.03.39 (1).jpeg


Welded top:
WhatsApp Image 2020-03-16 at 13.03.39.jpeg


Welded side:
WhatsApp Image 2020-03-16 at 13.03.39 (2).jpeg
 
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