body transplant

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well, got most everything stripped out that can be stripped and am planning on lifting the body off the frame with a large forklift..........will hope for the best on this one:frown:.....remove and discard the rusted 79 body........lift the 69 body and place it on the 79 frame........how the hell did you get into this one is the:princess: question:D

Lou
 
the weather has not cooperated with the forklift project but did pick up a 74 F 1 1/2 engine that looks in good shape; milage unknown, question is dumb but am confused will a later split TC and 4 speed work with this motor?

Lou
 
n2666s said:
question is dumb but am confused will a later split TC and 4 speed work with this motor?
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With the appropriate bell housing anything should work. You do know that the split transfer and single piece transfer cases use different trannys?
 
Have a split transfer case and a 4 speed that goes with it wonder if it can it be used with the 1 1/2f bellhousing?; trying to make a running pig from 2 dead ones and a 1 1/2 F:bang:

Lou
 
Did the 1 1/2F have the 4 speed? If so there's no problem! If not you need the 4 speed bell housing I think but there's others out there who know gassers better than me.
 
yes Charles, the 1 1/2 f had an original 4 speed.this was removed along with the TC.wondering if the split TC and 1985 h42 will mate up.........on the continuing saga, the weather has been sucky for the body forklift project so have getting around to small stuff the:princess: and kiddies demand like a running heater; found out why mine was not running to their satisfaction here are a cpl. of pix:hhmm: they won't upload:confused::confused: the website was down last night and wondering if anyone else is having problems uploading pix?......the PO had let the heater blower go to the devil and half the squirell cage is missing.. + full of rat droppings :eek:the resistance is toast so it would only run on high and that has quit since the motor fried....other question is once it is running again or a replacement is found.....what to y'all do for a sealer from blower box to body as what was in there turned to dust when I
removed it : (:cheers:


Lou
 
small things

yep finally got them to upload.these are the remains of the squirell cage and the resistor is fried along with the motor...was thinking could get by with a junk motor but the sq.cage has me wondering:hhmm: where to turn to now:confused:any solution to a replacement motor and squirell cage?

Lou
blower squirell cage remains.webp
blower squirell cage remains 2.webp
 
n2666s said:
yep finally got them to upload.these are the remains of the squirell cage and the resistor is fried along with the motor...was thinking could get by with a junk motor but the sq.cage has me wondering:hhmm: where to turn to now:confused:any solution to a replacement motor and squirell cage?

Lou
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Wow. Lou I'm sure someone has one around here for cheap.
 
n2666s said:
what do y'all use the seal the heater/blowerbox to the body? my seals turned to dust when I removed the box:frown:

Lou
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Use the closed cell weatherstrip foam tape stuff. The blower resistors are 1 ohm each, get ones with a high power (watt) rating and install them in the airstream like the old ones for additional cooling.
 
Charles; thanks again for the advice..a bit puzzled though on the weather stripping source; just got off the phone with a cply of local autoparts stores and they are clueless about what I am asking about....."closed cell foam tape"; the gaps beteen the blower hosing and body in some places is about an 8th of an inch letting in a lot of gas/oil fumes into the cockpit!.....will go to radio shack this evening to pick up the resistors.........do you know if they are all the same capacity? I see what appear to be two with different thickness of wire...they are both broken <no continuity>

Lou

Lou
 
My '55 A/C manual calls for a 1 ohm and a 1.1 ohm so yes, basically the same capacity. I'm not sure if resistors from Radio Shack have a high enough wattage rating. I'd be finding an electronics outlet and getting a resistor with a couple watt rating as a minimum and more is better for heat dissipation. You don't want to start any fires in your truck because of a resistor that couldn't take the heat! If I recall correctly mine were about 2" long and 1/4 to 3/8" across. Like I said elsewhere, I cannot recall if I actually ended up using them or not but I think I figured out about how larger they needed to be and it wasn't the little 1/2" long x 1/8" around ones you get at Radio Shack (those are probably like 1/4 watt or so).

The closed cell tape is available at a Home Depot/Lowe's type store. You'd normally use it for weatherstripping the old wood windows but it will do just fine on this as well. Autoparts stores will not have it.
 
n2666s said:
yep finally got them to upload.these are the remains of the squirell cage and the resistor is fried along with the motor...was thinking could get by with a junk motor but the sq.cage has me wondering:hhmm: where to turn to now:confused:any solution to a replacement motor and squirell cage?

Lou
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May have a cage can have if you have not found one. I know I have a couple but will have to check the size. Let me know if you still need one.
 
Eric, thanks a bunch; think I might have a working one lined up; where are you located just in case this one is dead?, they are specific to the 55s I understand and one off of a 40 will not work:frown:

:cheers:

Lou
 
rear window stuck!

OK....lots of threads about removing the rear window when it is down and you can open the tailgate; but what to do when it is stuck in the up position:frown:there are the famous "clips" you can access when you remove the inspection plate; even removing the 4.... 10mm hex head screws that hold the regulator in place and still after several hours Pete "ptmacp"and myself drew a blank; have to get back to it early in the AM........how to remove the "clips" any suggestions??, toddslater posted some very nice pix of these clips bu tno advice on how to remove the window:frown:....do we pry the window up and off the clips?,..... try knocking the clips sideways?, there seems to be a small channel........hate banging things that are fragile as I usually end up breaking hem into fragments....... the motor is inop and of no help!!!:crybaby:

Lou
 
n2666s said:
........how to remove the "clips" any suggestions??
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Soak them with WD40/PB Blaster or whatever you use to free stuck parts and then they get pushed sideways towards each other and the center of the tailgate. They will probably be rather stiff since I doubt they've moved in 30 years.

Have you checked for power at the terminal strip? Maybe on of the electrical connections is bad? That would be easier to deal with than the clips.
 
Thanks again Charles; will have a go at it again this AM with some Kroil oil, persistance you know :bang: although the:princess: insists it is insanity......just a mild tetch of it:D.....afraid the tailgate motor is stuck ........this piggy was rolled at Tellico:frown:.....

Lou
 
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