body transplant

[Pighead]

Right, those "clips" run through 2 channels, holding the the inner end of the C-channel to the widow channel. Put a screwdriverblade at the base of the tab and tap towards the center of the window. There are two grooved studs at the other end of the C-channel, but the C-channels should slide right off once the clips are removed.

 

[Eric Ellis]

Eric, thanks a bunch; think I might have a working one lined up; where are you located just in case this one is dead?, they are specific to the 55s I understand and one off of a 40 will not work



Lou

Lou, mail is for cheap and not a problem. I am in New Mexico. I have a couple: one sitting in a pulled 7/70 fj55 blower and a couple laying around that were from sedans or old trucks (dont recall). As for the latter they match up in diameter and shaft fitting but are a little (couple of mm thinner) with less fins/or bigger fin gap...not really meaningful.

come to think of it, I think I have another 55 one out of the blower as well.

Ok, just went outside to the garage; I have a couple of the identical cages...had the upper motor housing gasket as well, but 2 min later and I got no clue...that maybe my cue to start cleaning up the garage and getting rid of too much hoard.

 

[n2666s]

Update;
finally got the tailgate window down but can't get the darn hinge screws out.............will have to do the drilling out cave man method unless I can scrounge up an impact wrench and get it to work..........will let thinks soak with kroil till this saturday

Eric, could use a blower motor and a squirell cage; the one I scored "blower motor" is non working..t..........hese motors are tough but this one has rust in its guts

Lou

 

[Eric Ellis]

Update;
finally got the tailgate window down but can't get the darn hinge screws out.............will have to do the drilling out cave man method unless I can scrounge up an impact wrench and get it to work..........will let thinks soak with kroil till this saturday

Eric, could use a blower motor and a squirell cage; the one I scored "blower motor" is non working..t..........hese motors are tough but this one has rust in its guts

Lou

Hmm...was just typing on this page (where did it go?) Guess I hit something with the pizza and beer focus. Stay away from the cave man...I know from all your posts you know to resist that tempation? I killed my first screw with a hand impact and then drill. Not good! Actually still not removed, but thats another tailgate. Anyway, had a lot of luck with the Wurth Roast off Ice and Air impact on the other 3. My strategy with the wurth was to spray let it penetrate and then warm back up then isolate the screw head with a rag and use the worth to drop the temp. of the screw. I'm ignorant so, I have no clue if that actually worked, but the air impact certainly did better than the manual impact.

You are welcome to the squirrel cage and I suppose the blower (give me a day or so to test it and get over my obsessive hoarding). I am not sure it is running. I pulled it from my non running parts car and have never tested it. It has the big resitor coil still attached and looks in good order.

Eric

 

[n2666s]

OK Eric, I'll bite; what in the heck is a Wurth Roast off Ice and Air; vaguely remeber some Wurth products about 30 years ago when German products were still afordable!; I seem to have had better lucjk in the past with the manual impact screwdriver rather than the pneumatic or electric impacts as they just seem in my ghands to spin and "waller" out the phillips



Lou

 

[Eric Ellis]

OK Eric, I'll bite; what in the heck is a Wurth Roast off Ice and Air; vaguely remeber some Wurth products about 30 years ago when German products were still afordable!; I seem to have had better lucjk in the past with the manual impact screwdriver rather than the pneumatic or electric impacts as they just seem in my ghands to spin and "waller" out the phillips



Lou

Lou, just a lube/mix designed to "freeze" the bolt/ screw and allow the lubricant to work its way through micro-gaps createdby contraction...in theory. good theory I guess...but practically sometimes difficult. An old Toy Master Tech introduced me to it.

I'll PM you when I get the motor tested. It is likely good. The tailgate motor was great when I pulled it and well, it is New Mexico so, metal is typically good.

Eric

 

[n2666s]

thanks again to ptmp.......got the tailgate off along with its LOONG torsion bar spring...........hand held impact screwdriver courtesy of MAC tools and a weeklong soaking of kroil oil......motor is inop but the glass is good and it has a lots less rust than mine was dreading having to work on the full of pin hole sheetmetal
Eric; the blower motor on this one is also very dead.............looked at the resistor and it looks good but the proof would be when hooked up to a running blower motor!


Lou

 

[n2666s]

blower cage and resistor..........
Eric, hope this solves the wiring question; this wiring harness is off the rusted out parts blower but the hookup is the same...my wiring was totally fried the white wire with black tracer I believe is the hot wire and the blue ones are the "resistor" wires giving the different speeds...........my blower was working only on high and after the wiring fried, removed it finding rat droppings, remains of the cage and fur

Lou

 

[n2666s]

running into another the 69 came without a brake booster and have one on the 79, 79s firewall is totally rusted out.....plan to transfer the 79 booster onto the 69 firewall but it doesn't seem that the bolt holes will line up, any one care to comment on the use of rivnuts instead of welding the nuts in place.....looking for a quick but clean fix...............any need for reinforcing the firewall if I go with rivenuts?TIA;

Lou

 

[cruiserbrett]

Youre in for a bit of work. Take the brake pedal hanger assembly out of the 79 and stick it up under the dash where it needs to be. should give you a template, and since the booster mounts with studs not sure that you need the rivnuts?

 

[n2666s]

Brett, these are the comparison pix of the 69 master cyl with 78s booster as you can see the 69s master seems to be held in place with hex head screws; just wondering how to do the install!

Lou

 

[n2666s]

flipped the bodies

follow-up on the transplant...........finally got the body off the 69 and onto the 79 frame...............what an ordeal and it is only the beginning did not take any pix during the lift off + replace but used Scorcher's trick on the use of 2 jacks....was working with limited time and the helpers had even more time constraints...any way got the 69 body on the 79 frame and the 79 body on the 69 frame.......so I will have a good 69 frame with floor shifter crap CSB and Downey adaptor that will need a good home.also comes with brakes, axels and the remains of the rusted out 79 body; my patient has said NO MORE PROJECTS....will get some pix out later of the finished body flip......good gawd almighty!...this is gonna be a bitch to finish

Lou

 

[n2666s]

brake booster adaption

threads are worthless w/o pix so here come a few of my headaches to share with the group..........sounded easy BUT things are very very different from a 69 to a 79 pig although the frame flip is done.....now comes the hard part.getting things to work.......the 79 frame still has the 2F in place along with original PS;
first problem that jumped out at me; there is no way to use the 79s brake booster in the 69s firewall and be able to use a 2F; on the 79, the mount for the brake booster is a 4 bolt pattern and on the 69 MC it is 3 bolt; the brake MC on the 79 is nearly 3 inches to the left of the 69s to acommodate the booster and eliminate interference with the 2Fs carb ......
anyone use a smaller diameter brake booster on an early pig when disks have been adapted? TIA

Lou

 

[n2666s]

??, none of the picture titles came through.so here goes;
upper left; side by side on Left 79 body on 69 frame
upper right, 69 firewall on 79 frame with 2F and PS still in place!
lower left; Downey adaptor for SBC to Toy 3 speed floor shifter
Lou

 

[n2666s]

move booster more to the right?

thought moving the booster to the right might be a solution BUT there is a 2 1/2 inch difference in the clutch MC position between the 79 and 69..........so would have to move both the Booster and the Clutch MC .............then C&B pedals
smaller brake booster seems the way to go BUT which one..need advice from those who have adapted small boosters on a disk brake conversion; TIA

Lou

teaser picture the 69 came with a warn remote controler for a winch that connects to a hard fluid line.any ideas on how it was conected and what was it conected to?

 

[n2666s]

the brake booster on the 79 is a big mutha........and the distance from the booster to inner border of firewall panel is about 7 inches whereas on the 69 it is about 4 inches and it has a 3 bolt pattern with a stiffening rib between booster and clutch MC..........while the 79 has a 4 bolt pattern and no inbeteen rib

Lou

 

[hatfieldcb]

Lou, With the '69 I had I that I put 4 wheel disc brakes in to I used a mini-truck booster and master (but you could use a later LC master, maybe) and cut/drilled the '69 firewall for the booster to fit and then just bolted the booster up. I ended up putting another piece of sheet metal on the inside, I think, to stiffen the firewall. I had to grind off some of the back side of the brake pedal lever and drill a new hole to attach the brake push rod in a horizontal orientation. It was a good thing I used the mini-truck booster and master because I had clearance issues with the brake master cylinder and the carb on the 2F. I actually had to grind a little bit off the carb and even then it was close to touching. The clutch master was no problem. I fantasized about actually cutting out sections of firewall to swap from a later pig so I could use the brake/clutch "bucket". Never did. I also considered that on the PS to be able to use a later model blower motor, but I never did that either. BTW, I think I still have a couple of later model blowers for pigs if you need one.

One thing I did do that worked out well was to use the later (it was a '76) wiring harness in the '69, although just in the front. It just made everything easier with the 2F. And you use newer head light buckets and stuff. We left the rear part of the '69 harness in place and spliced it in to the front harness from the '76.

The other thing we did was cut the center dash out of the '69 (careful to leave some sheet metal in the corners and upper area to screw into) so we could use the center insert from the '76 dash. It made it easier to deal with things behind the dash. I would also use the stock parking brake cable and backing plate setup from the '69. If you have to make it longer for an H42 or SM420 you can get a custom cable made. I think I still have the info as to where we got it. And for the speedo cable, Marlin sells a 7" extension.

The other thing I was real proud of was we used a ND A/C compressor and the FJ60 front motor mount and alternator brackets for an OBA system. We needed the 3-groove crank pulley from a later 2F. I think we also used the lower radiator hose and union from the FJ60 setup for it to fit. Pretty slick.

Good luck! Looks like a big project.

 

[n2666s]

Chris....had always drooled over your 69 pig and its transformation..one of the reasons I thought about taking on this project.........was thinking along the same lines on the clearance issues with the 2F and the carb.....the firewall bucket replacement was a thought BUT then the entire pedal assembly would have to be changed and that seemed like another can of worms............your idea of stiffening the firewall is brilliant as the constant pressure variation of the brake plunger against the master would have to eventually cause the sheetmetal to deteriorate; the PO of the 69 is leaving the brake master and booster in place and had thought about using them BUT the clearance is just not there ...have another question; how did you adress the gas pedal?.......79 is linkage and on the 69 it is a cable? TIA;

Lou

 

[n2666s]

following up..............Mark Algazy had fabbed an adaptor for the 3 to 4 bolt pattern in the past but I believe it was for fj40s and 45s, will try to contact him about using it on the early 55s after a 2f install, could not find it on his website

Lou

 

[hatfieldcb]

Chris....had always drooled over your 69 pig and its transformation..one of the reasons I thought about taking on this project.........was thinking along the same lines on the clearance issues with the 2F and the carb.....the firewall bucket replacement was a thought BUT then the entire pedal assembly would have to be changed and that seemed like another can of worms............your idea of stiffening the firewall is brilliant as the constant pressure variation of the brake plunger against the master would have to eventually cause the sheetmetal to deteriorate; the PO of the 69 is leaving the brake master and booster in place and had thought about using them BUT the clearance is just not there ...have another question; how did you address the gas pedal?.......79 is linkage and on the 69 it is a cable? TIA;

Yeah. There was a part. OEM. Fancy name. I can't remember what it was called or where I got it. It allowed you to run a cable from the gas pedal. Bolted to the carb at the base. I looked around just now, but couldn't find any.

I do miss that pig. Oh well.