BEB's JUST IN TIME?

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So maybe these guys should run a cooler thermostat and/or an external oil cooler to boot. Keep the oil cooler and less thermal breakdown?

I couldn't seem to find a thicker Amsoil diesel oil, and a little reading showed me that Royal Purple is not the quality of Amsoil. Although, Amsoil compares itself to Redline alot.. but no Redline specs I could find:(.

I wouldn't just shove in a thicker oil and think that it is better just because its thicker. I would look at its specs to make sure it was superior.

g
 
I'd just run normal oil for 10,000km intervals then check and probably change the BEB every 100,000 clicks.

Overall it's gotta be less time, effort and money than changing the oil twice as often in the hope of curing it and maybe not succeeding.

landcrusher80 said:
I have posted this before. You might want to read this.

http://www.tytlabs.co.jp/english/rev..._036aoyama.pdf

Would like to know your thoughts on this.


LandCrusher 80
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That's very interesting, thanks for posting it up.
The seem to be mainly concerned about preventing noise from cavitation in that paper, rather than preventing damage or even preventing the cavitation from occuring. Maybe they don't consider the cavitation to be a problem over the life of the engine?
 
landcrusher80 said:
I have posted this before. You might want to read this.

http://www.tytlabs.co.jp/english/review/rev401epdf/e401_036aoyama.pdf

Would like to know your thoughts on this.


LandCrusher 80
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Landcrusher Eighty
Thank you for posting this, Ive given a quickie read , but needs a major read to comprehend the full amount.

Nomenclature needs to understood. BEB's is Main crank on center, throw / bottom big engs / tops on bottom purchase.. In a quick read they pick on a main brg , but show a throw.. Main's needs a grove to supply oil through the crankshaft internal galleys .

I'll give it a good read , and pass to some younger bucks and see the say of WHAT !!

VT
 
a lot of the things you post make sense
but this one ... just doesn't.
Dougal said:
I'd just run normal oil for 10,000km intervals then check and probably change the BEB every 100,000 clicks.

Overall it's gotta be less time, effort and money than changing the oil twice as often in the hope of curing it and maybe not succeeding.
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crushers said:
change your oil every 5000 km, run a good filter, done.

my concern with todays LC owners is the rash of blokes that are extending their oil changes to 10K, 15K, even as high as 20K ... if you have an issue that creeps up at 5K and you are running that engine on the same oil till 20K ... well ... how do you know? till it is too late?

as with most discussions, i will read what others post up and make up my own "old school" mind about it. one old timer told me, "sonny, it doesn't matter what oil you run. just make sure the damn thing has oil in it and change the stuff every 3000 miles".

since his engines seem to last as long as he did, i will put my money into his advice over the high mileage advice on the interweb.

enjoy.
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So this is making me question the wisdom of my recent decision to run synthetic oil (Rotella T6) and change the filter at 5,000km and the oil every 10,000km. I based this on the fact that synthetic oil doesn't break down from the heat the same as dino, so should be good for longer. I'd be interested in some opinions if this theory has any drawbacks...

-Jason
 
VTCDN said:
Landcrusher Eighty
Thank you for posting this, Ive given a quickie read , but needs a major read to comprehend the full amount.

Nomenclature needs to understood. BEB's is Main crank on center, throw / bottom big engs / tops on bottom purchase.. In a quick read they pick on a main brg , but show a throw.. Main's needs a grove to supply oil through the crankshaft internal galleys .

I'll give it a good read , and pass to some younger bucks and see the say of WHAT !!

VT
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Well over the Holiday break , there was a few throats quenched, as we discussed a quick thinking of this and the pictures of the throw brgs (bottom connecting rod brg) . General View was a combination of dry start (poor filter & oil) and the early Aluminum style of brg . The same as the early euros had, and we had seen / been thought.
Most Manufactures of engines know about the critical speed of vibration and how to resolve it or try to minimize .

Anyways I'm sticking with my original post #8 ..

VT

EDit: General View was a combination of dry start (poor filter & oil) and the early Aluminum style of brg .
Meaning the early Aluminum style of brg was so poor retaining an oil film due to lack to porosity of the Aluminum , with junk oil and poor filter the bearing problem showed up earlier. Nanny taxis for the kids , driven 12 miles a day , always were the first due to , never got a full warmed up run and low milage over time.
Did many a repair on these BEB's in the early years. Glad theres euro synthetic i can buy here now.

Done on this topic.
 
Last edited:
dry starts, possible but doubtful.
poor quality bearing, definately.
 
@Jason, it's not just thermal breakdown that you have to worry about with long oil change intervals. There are also, detergents and stabilizers in most oils. These will wear out and you may end up with normal constistency, but acidic, oil in your engine...
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
@Jason, it's not just thermal breakdown that you have to worry about with long oil change intervals. There are also, detergents and stabilizers in most oils. These will wear out and you may end up with normal constistency, but acidic, oil in your engine...
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And if you're worried, try some oil sampling. It'll tell you exactly what's degrading in your oil and give you peace of mind for future drain intervals.
 
and that is where you and i will differ.
longer intervals allow for more damage before being alerted. 10K, 15K, 20K and major problems can occur and the money you have saved on oil changes will be quickly eaten up by costly repairs.

each to their own, but there is no way in hell i would recommend long term oil changes.
 
Why?
The idea of oil monitoring is to know exactly what is going on. Metal particles, dust (silica), acidity etc etc is measured and compared to fresh oil.

It shows exactly how fast the oil is degrading and how well the filters are working.
You can change oil at 5,000km as much as you like and never know what's going on inside that engine.

I have yet to see a failure that could be averted by changing oil every 5,000km. Crank bearings included.
 
not saying testing is wrong or a waste of money, i am saying long term oil changes are ... stupid.
 
X2 also on extended Service Intervals .

VT

Them are the ones that keep us employed ;)
 
Would you gents care to show us a failure that is caused by 10-15,000km oil changes and can be absolutely prevented by 5,000km oil changes?

Before one of you start, this BEB problem isn't one of those failures.

The four vehicles I currently own have the following factory recommended intervals.
86 Isuzu 4BD1T - 12,000km
98 Nissan petrol - 14,000km
98 Nissan diesel - 20,000km
00 Nissan diesel - 20,000km

5,000km oil changes are championed by those selling oil or being paid to change it.
 
Dougal said:
Would you gents care to show us a failure that is caused by 10-15,000km oil changes and can be absolutely prevented by 5,000km oil changes?

Before one of you start, this BEB problem isn't one of those failures.

The four vehicles I currently own have the following factory recommended intervals.
86 Isuzu 4BD1T - 12,000km
98 Nissan petrol - 14,000km
98 Nissan diesel - 20,000km
00 Nissan diesel - 20,000km

5,000km oil changes are championed by those selling oil or being paid to change it.
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Your Correct !!!!!!

You figured it / us out.


Each to there own.

Enough on this.
I need to figure parts for 3B's and H55F overhauls .
Full kits plus

VT
 
i don't sell oil.
i don't get paid to change oil.

those championing long term oil changes are in the market to sell parts and vehicles. the longer the oil change the shorter the possible engine life which in turns makes the owner buy a replacement vehicle.

it is called fleet renewal program. look into Dougal, you might be surprised at what is in store for all of us in the very near future.

each to their own.
 
crushers said:
i don't sell oil.
i don't get paid to change oil.

those championing long term oil changes are in the market to sell parts and vehicles. the longer the oil change the shorter the possible engine life which in turns makes the owner buy a replacement vehicle.

it is called fleet renewal program. look into Dougal, you might be surprised at what is in store for all of us in the very near future.

each to their own.
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Very few vehicles these days are scrapped because the engine wears out. Most either crash, rust, have catastrophic failure or the owners just get sick of them.
When was the last time you actually wore an engine out while the rest of the vehicle was perfectly good?
If that's actually happened, what was it that wore out? The cylinders lost compression? Head cracked?

That Isuzu engine with 12,000km oil changes, they do 500,000km between overhauls. Sleeved engine so throw a rebuild kit in and do another 500,000km.
The oil life isn't the problem. Un-necessary changes are pointless and expensive.
 
IMHO modern engines with modern oils and modern service intervals i.e. 12,000 miles ect are fine if YOU are happy with it.

We have to remember that modern engine designs run more efficiently and cleaner so oil tends to lead an easier life, motorists in general have also become more savvy when it comes to understanding that vehicles should be serviced by time if they have not met the 'normal' servicing mileage, add to this that many families now have two or more cars it is not surprising that engines get an easier life and live longer.

Me, 5000 max miles new oil and filter and looking at my service records this is what the PO liked doing, result is this did not help the the BEB's which were showing serious wear https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/378409-beb-just-observations.html so I would think oil could be discounted however, with the engine now heading up towards 200,000 and not a puff of smoke/rattle/knock or anything else for that matter I would say the 5000 mile oil and filter change regime is perfect for older engines. Like many things we all have our opinions and of course this can generate discussion and even heated debate but at the end of the day IMO my engine is happy and so am I.

regards

Dave
 
agree completely.
Dave 2000 said:
I would say the 5000 mile oil and filter change regime is perfect for older engines. Like many things we all have our opinions and of course this can generate discussion and even heated debate but at the end of the day IMO my engine is happy and so am I.

regards

Dave
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