BEB's JUST IN TIME?

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While the opinions are interesting, I've yet to see anything resembling a fact, backed up by real experiences that longer change intervals cause problems, particularly with filter changes at 5,000. Also of interest is oil change intervals on big rigs, which are in the 20,000km range. I realize they run a bigger sump with loads more oil in them, but they go and go and go and go...

Dougal made the only real valid point that sampling will tell just what is happening to the oil, and if the detergents and additives are still doing their job or not.

I'm not really trying to kick the bee's nest here, but I'd like to know if running synthetic and keeping it in there longer is a good idea, or if I'm better sticking with dino and 5,000km intervals. While cost is only part of the equation, I have a hard time swallowing the cost of doing synthetic changes at 5,000km. So far opinions are quite divided (and a bit heated too...)
 
Jason I would love to see your results also....

Call me crazy but my dad and I 81's are running chevron delo 5w-40 full syn on 5000k changes, my dads has about 210 on the clock (BEB's yet to be done, and I'm getting to those next) and mine with 88k on the clock, I just did my BEB's and will post photos.

Cheers
 
BCR4619 said:
Jason I would love to see your results also....

Call me crazy but my dad and I 81's are running chevron delo 5w-40 full syn on 5000k changes, my dads has about 210 on the clock (BEB's yet to be done, and I'm getting to those next) and mine with 88k on the clock, I just did my BEB's and will post photos.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Interesting. Do you see much difference on how quickly the oil darkens up between the two engines?

I'll also be interested how the bearings look in the two engines. It does seem quite random though, rather than being tied to milage.
 
Jason,

This is the only the second batch of syn that I have dumped into my truck since getting it, at 6000k on my first cycle it came out black but when I took my oil pan off everything was spotless in my engine, no crud on the bottom of my oil pan and nothing stuck to the oil pickup screen.

I had got my truck in June of 2010 and went on a road trip in July to Kelowna with fresh oil that day. I had checked the oil when I arrived and it was clear, when I returned with about a 1000km round trip on the oil there were a few black specs in it but being a diesel and first run with syn I kinda knew it would get dirty quickly.

In talking with my dad he is saying that about after 2000-2500k on the oil it starts to get dirty, keep in mind this is with about 50% Highway and 50% city driving.

What I will do is report back at 1000k intervals about my oil and that should give me an idea on how long it takes to get dirty, which might take awhile as I use about a tank or so a month (6-800k)

Pictures to come!
 
While the colour of the oil is only part of the story and doesn't tell what shape the detergents are in etc, I have found it interesting to watch how quickly the oil darkens. On the last few changes its been around 2500km before it starts to get really dark. I just pulled the dipstick to take a peek at 5,000km, and its pretty dark. It took longer with my old commute of 30min plus on the highway each way. Now I'm 10min of town, with a climb up a hill at the end. Less than ideal...
 
Was wondering with this new Global world market . The supply and demand stuff , cost of storing , warehouse cut backs and all ..
Who has ordered or tried to see if there engine brg's are still available ?
I got an eye opener for std sizes.

VT
 
When I was sourcing my bearings it seemed the only ones that were difficult to find were the ACL versions, I had been told over that they were a better bearing so held out for them. I could have got a set of OEM or other brands off the shelf, that was a year ago and I am unaware of anyone in the UK having issues at this time.

regards

Dave
 
Finally found an active link to the collection of mailing list discussions again, and thought I would post it to this thread for informations sake.

80bigend.htm

There is reference there to Toyota not using ACL, but the aftermarket repair shops using ACL. Also mention of the 24 valve showing problems, but not to the extent as the 12 valve. Process it through your filters and take or leave what you want.

Grab a couple brews; It's a long read.

gb
 
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Thanks GB.

Long read !!, And they had their phone #'s posted
So since ACL is made in AU, the USA house is out of 3B mains. I was able to get mine in Std. Plus a few more sets in other makes.
I will need to do a few engines.

VT
 
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No worries. Take it all with a grain of salt as there is reference a number of times in this collection of emails about JDM 1HD-T's not showing this problem due to the Japanese Spec oils saving the day. We now know this is not the case, otherwise one could interpolate none of the 1HD-T's showing up in Canada over the last 4-5 years here would be showing any issues.

Meanwhile, I am still stuck here till more info comes in:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/441614-bebs-just-time-2.html#post6166944
gb
 
For those who have been inside a 3B Please

Might You have an idea of what I found inside a 1983 3B BJ60 Cdn.

I open up what I think is a first time inside the crankcase for inspection and reslip in std bottom end brg's. They look as a light scuff on the top of the rods and the lowers of the mains 3-.005 gauged , What caught me and wow was rod cap number markings , not that there rod 1,1,2,1 in the cyls 1to4 , but on cyl 3 & 4 the rod cap had #1and 2 not only mis-matched with #3 cyl & 4cyl , But what was so strange was the number stamping is not from the same die.
much smaller , deeper stamp etc.

Have you worked internally inside 3B's and seen this weirdness ?
Have you seen the original brgs OE stamping ? I have all std sizing , with the oil pan gasket coming off as looking as this was the first time removed .

I also read that the 3B cam shaft 3 journal type had a flaw of bad bearing wear causing low oil pressure , that is one thread that i read , but can't go back and find to re-read.


Thanks VT
 
i would suspect someone had did a rebuild using what ever parts they had around. they line bored the block and reground the rods so the caps and rods didn't have to be the same.
i have seen this on a few "*B" series engines ... not a big deal.
 
Ok , glad some have seen this before.
this has 250 k on the clock , and all looks as original build.
I going with Original from the Daihatsu Plant , and someone just got the caps mixed up .The resized hones lines match up 100% on the rod and no wear thats unusual.



I remember a model year of a Euro manufacture that had many engines built with the piston rings all installed with them perfectly line up . New car would drink oil , and kill cats, Warranty repaired with new rings installed 120 and off thrust kick. Was nice the first few.

I did a Bump clearance check on the Camshaft got .005 mean .. Seeing that the rods and mains are looking pretty normal , In your experience this 3 journal type cam , Im going to leave it as is , Or is there some truth in the poor camshaft brgs ? I have the tools for this and .

Thanks Wayne for the reply .. VT

Im leaning on just going to slip in new Rods&Mains bearings and roll with that .
 
You guys want to see some really bad ones? Out of a Australian 1HDT with 400 k on the clock.
The engine ran fine with good power, no noise, did not burn oil. It was traded in against a fully rebuilt one anyway...
beb1.webp
beb2.webp
 
Original Installed one's Jan-78FJ40 or is this after the replacement of the original ?

VT
 
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