Axle - Gears - Lockers GX470 Upgrade Thread (1 Viewer)

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It seems that most folks who run 5.29's have giant tires (see 40's on the Dirt Every Day Pond Scum 4Runner) or have a 4-cylinder Taco with limited power.

FWIW, I'm going to put 4.56's in my GX when I upgrade to 33's. I think it will be a good combo considering it's also a tow rig, and would allow for 35's in the future if I ever want to make it a dedicated trail rig.

You can also estimate highway RPMs with gearing and tire size here:
 
I have 4.88s on 37s and they are perfect.
 
Every so often I feel like I MAYBE should have gone with 4.88's instead of 4.56's for 35's then I drive on the freeway and realize 4.56 is the perfect choice for 35's.
5.29's would be way to much for 35's unless you planned on trailering your rig for dedicated rock crawling.
It seems that most folks who run 5.29's have giant tires (see 40's on the Dirt Every Day Pond Scum 4Runner) or have a 4-cylinder Taco with limited power.

FWIW, I'm going to put 4.56's in my GX when I upgrade to 33's. I think it will be a good combo considering it's also a tow rig, and would allow for 35's in the future if I ever want to make it a dedicated trail rig.

You can also estimate highway RPMs with gearing and tire size here:

That's what I thought. Its not a daily but those are definitely way too tall since I can't trailer it at the moment

I have 4.88s on 37s and they are perfect.

That's what I was looking to swap for when I eventually install 37s but this came up. I'm guessing that the 8" rear end and everything inside it wouldn't hold up very well to 35s or 37s in the rocks anyway and 4.88s are the largest available gears for an 8.2
 
That's what I thought. Its not a daily but those are definitely way too tall since I can't trailer it at the moment



That's what I was looking to swap for when I eventually install 37s but this came up. I'm guessing that the 8" rear end and everything inside it wouldn't hold up very well to 35s or 37s in the rocks anyway and 4.88s are the largest available gears for an 8.2
The rack will give up at 35s with harder wheeling. The 8" will for sure. Tie rods too. Unless you NEED 35+ and plan to wheel hard stay at a 33-34 for offroad and overland. To do 35s right takes time and a goodly amount of money and upgrades. 37s takes wholesale replacement of most everything if you want it dead reliable haha. Mine has RCLT, RCVs, a 200 rack, upgraded tie rods, 4.88s, lockers, a diamond with 9.5" cruiser diff and chrome nitro axles and stuff to deal with the 37s and weight.
 
The rack will give up at 35s with harder wheeling. The 8" will for sure. Tie rods too. Unless you NEED 35+ and plan to wheel hard stay at a 33-34 for offroad and overland. To do 35s right takes time and a goodly amount of money and upgrades. 37s takes wholesale replacement of most everything if you want it dead reliable haha. Mine has RCLT, RCVs, a 200 rack, upgraded tie rods, 4.88s, lockers, a diamond with 9.5" cruiser diff and chrome nitro axles and stuff to deal with the 37s and weight.

Thank you for that perspective. I already bent a tie rod and I wouldn't be surprised if my rack bushings are toast as well. Right now I'm beating up the truck and I'm sure I'm going to break more things on 33s trying to keep up with my friends in 100s on 35s. I bet lockers and lower gears would help but for a little more than that I could buy a dedicated wheeler and trash that...decisions decisions
 
If you decide to go with a FJC axle. Stay away from the early ‘07 production run. They had the batch that were most prone to fail. 2010 or newer FJC all have the 8.2”

Your route seems affordable for a sizable upgrade.
The reason for the gears blowing up
Is because they are 8 inch rear ends. They didn’t come out with the 8.2 until 2010. 2006-2009 are 8 inch rear ends. Almost bought a 2009 then found out it’s an 8 inch.
 
Looking at doing an 8.2" axle swap to avoid blowing up the 8.0 and adding a rear locker for a bit better rock crawling. I like the idea of the simplicity of the factory 8.2 and locker from an FJ or 4runner. I currently run 34" tires and probably will stay there. Does it make sense to pay another $500-$600 and do front and rear 3.91 out of a manual FJ or will that not make much difference compared to 3.73?
 
Looking at doing an 8.2" axle swap to avoid blowing up the 8.0 and adding a rear locker for a bit better rock crawling. I like the idea of the simplicity of the factory 8.2 and locker from an FJ or 4runner. I currently run 34" tires and probably will stay there. Does it make sense to pay another $500-$600 and do front and rear 3.91 out of a manual FJ or will that not make much difference compared to 3.73?
Personally that seems like a deal if you aren't going to go over 34s. You will feel the gearing. Doesn't make sense if you plan to lock or regear.
 
I've looked through a lot of the thread but have one question. I've got a 2006 gx470 non-kdss. Running 34s and live in the mountains so I want to beef up the 8" rear end, add rear locker, and slightly improve gearing. So I found an 8.2 with E locker and front diff from a 2010 MT FJ Cruiser. I believe that all works. The question is, what wiring or anything else do I need for install and getting the E locker work?
 
Finally bit the bullet. Ordered a nice California owned/wrecked 2011 manual FJC rear axle with factory locker and matching 2010 GX460 front reverse clamshell. Stronger 8.2 rear diff, modest 3.91 regear, rear locker, and rust free parts should make for a fun project.

Now for my question: is anyone aware of an e-locker wiring harness that works with the OEM locker and uses the OEM Prado/ LC rear locker switch?

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If not, I will likely just get the one mentioned a few posts up and maybe try and wire the OEM switch in.
 
Nice mixed play on the diffs with the slightly taller gears. Sways will be the only concern but melted metal always fits.

The locker harness can be had. I believe this write up is the latest:

 
Finally bit the bullet. Ordered a nice California owned/wrecked 2011 manual FJC rear axle with factory locker and matching 2010 GX460 front reverse clamshell. Stronger 8.2 rear diff, modest 3.91 regear, rear locker, and rust free parts should make for a fun project.

Now for my question: is anyone aware of an e-locker wiring harness that works with the OEM locker and uses the OEM Prado/ LC rear locker switch?

View attachment 3347063

If not, I will likely just get the one mentioned a few posts up and maybe try and wire the OEM switch in.
I'll be curious to hear how difficult the project / install is. Contemplating the same swap or just an 8.2 3.73 rear end myself.
 
I'll be curious to hear how difficult the project / install is. Contemplating the same swap or just an 8.2 3.73 rear end myself.
I'll give an update once it is all done. Biggest challenge is going to be cleaning all the woolwax off under there so I don't get covered in that stuff lol. Other than that, it should be straight forward as long as the bolts all cooperate.

EDIT - Salvage yard informed me that the rear axle tube was bent and severely damaged, so back to the search unfortunately.
 
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I'll give an update once it is all done. Biggest challenge is going to be cleaning all the woolwax off under there so I don't get covered in that stuff lol. Other than that, it should be straight forward as long as the bolts all cooperate.

EDIT - Salvage yard informed me that the rear axle tube was bent and severely damaged, so back to the search unfortunately.
At what prices are you finding the 8.2" rear axles these days? I looking to go down this rabbit hole...with a shop that specializes in re-gearing and diffs. Looking for an 8.2" elocked rear diff.

And anyone tried using the AC 115V switch for the factory e-locker? I happen to like that switch because it has a nice LED light that turns on when on. Just wondering if anyone has considered this switch.
 
At what prices are you finding the 8.2" rear axles these days? I looking to go down this rabbit hole...with a shop that specializes in re-gearing and diffs. Looking for an 8.2" elocked rear diff.

And anyone tried using the AC 115V switch for the factory e-locker? I happen to like that switch because it has a nice LED light that turns on when on. Just wondering if anyone has considered this switch.
I am finding them for a little more than $2k shipped at best. That's after tax, and including freight shipping with liftgate service to a residential address. You might be able to get a better deal if local yards have good parts so you can save on shipping. Unfortunately for me, anything within driving distance is too rusty for what I'd be willing to spend money on. There are quite a few in the $3k+ range, but at that point you might as well just get a totally new axle/3rd assembly for $4k.

Finding a wrecked 2010+ manual FJ (3.91 gears) that wasn't on fire, rear ended, t-boned, or flipped is nearly impossible; so I gave up on that search. I bought another 8.2 axle off a 2014 Trail Premium 4r for $2.2k. Its in transit and should be here by the weekend hopefully. It looks to be rust free and undamaged (donor from TX and then WA where it was totalled from a front end collision). Only hiccup will be transferring my old sway bar mounts to the new 8.2 since the donor 4runner had kdss.
 

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