Aux Fuel Tank, the last Mod I want . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . OK this month

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Romer

Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
Moderator
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Threads
559
Messages
11,980
Location
Centennial, Colorado
I really want to install the Long Ranger Aux Tank. I know its a pain getting the fittings and having to move the charcoal canister. Slee says these are a mess and he really doesn't want to do it because they are not plug and play and you can't really match the fittings. Gas leaks, pressure issues popping codes due to having to cut molded fuel line and not being able to

The one in the link is the P version adding a carbon filter for this tank, not a replacement. They said I would still have to move the tank and they know there are several in the US who didnt have problems.

I read DT's thread on his install and was hoping someone had improved the process

They quoted me "Cost of the tank kit is $1500.00 AUD - air freight to Denver is $640.00 AUD - these prices do not include any import duties / taxes or internal freight." so about $1600 delivered to my door

Anyone else had luck in installing these?

I had a subtank in my 80 and really liked the mod
 
how much extra fuel capacity do you gain?
 
the one in the link is 90L or just about 24 gallons, almost doubling your range. There are larger and smaller ones
 
You can inquire with transfer flow to custom build you one. Google them. They are located in Chico, CA. They make a 45 gallon factory replacement for 2nd gen tundra.
 
I'll echo what @Atwalz said. I've seen several post linking to them.

My thoughts are that you could probably pretty easily get someone to fab you one for less than $1600. Hell, get him to make you several, then sell them to the group to offset the cost of your own project.

An aux tank would be next on my list of mods, but like you said above, they seem to be a ton of trouble, not to mention extremely expensive.

Wonder if you could import an OE sub tank? I saw one for sale just this week in Australia.
 
My thoughts, FWIW. The rear mount tanks are a bad idea from a safety and handling perspective. I very much dislike having anything in that impact zone.... the Ford Pinto stays strong in my mind. The extra weight sloshing around behind the axle is bad for handling, and reduces tongue weight. Now that I've pissed in your Cheerios (apologies), a little brainstorming... Place an additional modern fuel tank from another Toyota, say an 03 - 09 4-Runner, inside the frame where the muffler resides. Move the muffler behind the axle. The 4-Runner tank has all the proper fittings, it's own fuel pump etc. integrating it would be an interesting project.

If you are not concerned about having the tank back there... Perhaps another modern Toyota/Lexus tank would be suitable to mount back there?
 
S.CarolinaFZJ80 said:
Or you could just add a factory 200 series sub tank... That way you know it will fit correctly and not affect handling.
The 80, 100 & 200 all came with factory sub tanks in certain non US markets.
Click to expand...


Still have the issue of the Carbon canister and fittings. The US version has the carbon canister where the tank goes. You have to move that and reroute all the plumbing. By the time you do that, you might as well do the Long Ranger with more capacity. The US tank has molded one peice fittings that have to be cut to move the canister
 
The CBI solution is the best aux (transfer tank) solution I've seen so far. Are you not going to consider it? I'm just going to get a Slee rear bumper and slap (2) 4 gallon rotopax containers on it when it comes out.
 
I am installing a Gamiviti rack tomorrow and can always use Frontrunner gas can holders like I did on my 100. I didnt want the 2nd arm on the rear bumper as you would always have to open it

Having the aux tank in my 80 was nice and it reduced how often I had to stop for gas all year. I always filled and ran both tanks.

The CBI tank looks ok, problem is you have to stop and the fill. Just pressing a button was nice and watching the fuel gauge go the other direction. I did look at the custom web site mentioned above and their tanks. Also some other options elsewhere for a tank to go where the spare tire is on a big chevy truck.

I will ponder this some more. I am willing to put some research and $$ into doing this, but I also don't want to mess my fuel system up. I would rather just carry cans when I need it if I can't work a clean solution

gas.webp
 
I also have seen the rotopax cans mounted Horizontal on a roof rack. May also look at that in interim, but I will keep poking at this mod. It was one of the favorite mods in my 80
 
Romer, I'm with you on this mod. After tooling around in Wyoming this week (and towing to and from there), stopping for fuel every 180-190 miles sucks, and there were a couple times I was sweating whether I would have enough fuel to make it to the next station.

At the moment I'm just waiting in the hopes that some other company will manufacture a solution designed to work with US spec vehicles. Long Ranger or AUS factory aux tank both mean big changes to the evap system currently.
 
@Romer/all, what did you end up doing here?
 
I am still waiting to see if something develops
 
The carbon can is for Australia. It comes with the tank. I got excited to first time I saw it, but still doesnt address the carbon canister we have in our trucks
 
I'd start by looking at LHD 200 Series with aux tanks & charcoal canisters. Do Saudi LC200 come with charcoal canisters? I would imagine they have some sort of EVAP system in place. Either 4.6l or 5.7l, it likely doesn't matter. There are probably some photos on the web, just we don't have the right tools (language) to find them. Just to edit, where do the Tundra or Sequoia mount their canisters? Anything tubes or mounts cross over? :)
 
I really wish for one as well. As I tow a travel trailer, range becomes <220 mile, @10-11mpg, if maintaining a reasonable buffer. I have a fuelpax 3.5 gallon canister. But boy do I wish for a subtank. I don't even need anything crazy. 10 gallons more for a total of just over 300 mile range would make me very happy.

There's definitely enough space up there between the frame and spare, and just moving the charcoal canister to one side. Someone just has to engineer a proper fitting, and easily installed tank. Beastly tanks take would take more load capacity and installation effort than I care for.
 
After taking the leap with excel aux tank- my opinion the long ranger would work just as well, maybe even better with slight modification in the installation process. My only issue I have with excell is filling the tanks is a little bit process especially when using a pump at a station that does not have vapor recovery system. In these cases I have to wait for the air to escape from the system to continue filling the tanks around the 24-gallon mark, when the main read 1/4 I normally add around 30 gallons, adds a couple of minutes to the fueling process. A small sacrifice to have a 450 plus HWY range. As far as the EVAP relocation, I found a proven method that does not require extending the wiring harness or the plumbing hoses. I have not really have any issues to report and passed emissions with out issue.

From what it looks like the Longranger as designed right now would actually introduce a leak into the evap system in the USA models that is why I went with the excel. We have an active evap system in the US while the rest of world seems to a passive evap system. What I mean by active one that runs test cycles under defined parameters to meet clear air regs. The URJ200 us spec runs an evap test when the main tank is between 3/4 and 1/4 full and under a certain pattern of drive conditions, it tests both pressure retention and vacuum of the closed loop system.

With experience with the installing the excell and reviewing the long ranger youtube and written installation instructions- The issue I see with the long ranger system the transfer pump is not valve and will result in introducing an air leak into the system. I would hypothesize one could use the Long Ranger with a slightly different installation approach. -

1) follow the excel tank process of installing the gravity fuel fill into the main tank, which means dropping the main and install a threaded fuel hose connector, connting this to the Long Ranger Fuel transfere pump 2) install a fuel solenoid value as close you can to the fuel fill point on the main-

The theory of operation is the solenoid will close system when fuel is not being transferred and truly isolate the main from the aux system. Before fuel transfer, one one would flip the switch to open the fuel solenoid, and then flip the switch once the fuel transfer is complete to close the valve and hence the evap system. Having separate fuel fills would speed the filling process, and one could use the aussie EVAP canister to have a passive vapor collection from the aux tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom