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Another Radiator Dilemma

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by FJ40_owner, Aug 14, 2006.

  1. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    My 40 with a Chevy 350 runs about 220+ and more on a hot day when rock crawling. This to me is not acceptable.

    I was not able to get in on the Taurus Efan purchase so I got a Summit 15 inch 3500 CFM fan.

    I tore the 4 core radiator out and had it rodded out. I watched the guy do the work. Out of 40 tubes maybe ten were clogged. The radiator guy tells me my Rad is a quality unit that would cost $350 to replace and I should stick with it and the mechanical fan because of the constant airflow over my headers etc.

    I am installing a new 180 stat that I verified opens at 180.

    My mechanical fan is an 8 blade fixed setup.

    My dilemma is what to do. The E-Fan is LOUD and the install will involve fab work as there is minimal clearance between the water pump shaft and existing radiator position. (Already cut most of the shaft off.)

    I just want to run 200 degrees + or -.

    Suggestions, comments.

    Thanks,

    JB
     
  2. 1973Guppie

    1973Guppie SILVER Star

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    I am running an SBC vortec, with a taurus fan and a four core stock mod radiator. I also cut my fenders fairly wide to allow air flow over the engine/headers. I run consistenly around 195, which is where the vortec engines need to be in order to run correctly. I have heard others have had good luck with aluminum radiators matched with the taurus fans. HTH.

    Noah
     
  3. dgangle

    dgangle total rice SILVER Star

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    this should keep you busy for a while

    Read as much as you can and figure out which way you want to go. Different people have different experiences and opinions on what is required to successfully cool a V8-powered Land Cruiser.
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104572
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=101698
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92199
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=84291
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=69812
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=67930
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=67930
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=31450

    EDIT:
    Rereading my links you state you bought the el-cheapo RadiatorBarn.com 4 core on 12/6/05 by Matts' (buckroseau) recommendation. I am confused. Your original post on this thread says you had your 4-core rad rodded out. Certainly an 8-month old radiator doesn't need to be disassembled and cleaned unless you got some serious contamination issues. What gives?

    My experiences with this has proven to me that any radiator intended for the I-6 will NOT cool a V8 but others claim a different experience. I don't care what fan, TStat or magic potion put in it. My recommendation to anyone considering a V8 or having cooling problems is to go with the biggest aluminum radiator one can make fit. Do it once and be done with it because chances are if you go with the copper/brass OE-sized rad, you'll be redoing it later...just like I did and you are inevitably going to have to do also.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2006
  4. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    Are you using a shroud? Im in AZ,home of 110*+ days with a TPI 350 running AC:cool: No problems with temp running a shroud and an 8 blade BB fan.
     
  5. fj40charles

    fj40charles

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    I agree 100%.. Don't waste your time or money for becool or stock 4 core radiator. It is not going to cool it. Also, don't use flex-a-lite fans. They don't work.

    Remember, more HP you make, the more heat you'll be making too.
     
  6. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    I am running a shroud, it is well sealed and the radiator is not new.
     
  7. dgangle

    dgangle total rice SILVER Star

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    Oh,
    I'll disagree with you there. I used one with my old CCoT set up and it would suck nuts and bolts off the garage floor. That sucka moved some air and did a better job of cooling than a new thermal clutch fan with the old sorry-ass set up I had. The radiator was just inadequate, plain and simple.

    My buds run flex-a-lites on super late models that turn 8K RPM and besides sounding like a jet taking off, pull one heck of a lot of air. I have to think they rob some power though and have read theories of a solid fan impeding airflow at highway speeds.
     
  8. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    So I spent the day installing the E-Fan. It fits nice and tight to the radiator via the rubber stand off material. I have a new 180 stat. I was able to maintain 180 in my driveway by carefully adjusting the Efan controller setpoint. I am happy so far.

    Verify no leaks and go for a test ride.

    I simulate crawling by driving up a long 45 degree hill, I am going maybe 10 MPH. I watch the gage as it creeps toward 210. I stop at the top of the hill and put the rig in neautral. My hope is the fan will bring me back down to 180. No such luck. Sitting in the sun with no air flow except the fan I hover at 210.. Run the RPMs up to 1000, no change!! Remember the rad has jus been rodded out.

    I am happy with the airflow I get but not happy with the temps. Pulling that much air JUST HAS TO BE BETTER THAN A MECH FAN, right?????

    So like others have said, my radiator is undersized, right?



    Please say no.

    JB
     
  9. kulangot

    kulangot

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    Dangle,

    Not all flex a lites are the same, some are more flexible than others. Problem is, they work great when they are new, but when they get old, the don't stay ridgid and move less air at low speeds. Not such an issue on a race car or on a high performance street machine where you can usually put a huge radiator in there that bolts in and is made just for that ap. You might also run your 4x4 more in one weekend than you'd run a high performance muscle car all month.

    Flex-a-Lite also makes ridgid fans as well as several flavors of flex fans.

    Great for racing, and good for street driven 40's but not so great for a over heating trail truck where a huge 17" OEM fan with rigid blades (Cadillac or HD truck application) is going to move a LOT more air and suck down HP.

    I ran flex a lites for years on muscle cars but not on a off road 4x4 in my oppinion.

    I do agree 100 percent about the bigger radiator than what came stock for a F/2F, GM seems to think so as well. They have as many different radiators per vehicle as they have motor and then some. They even put a bigger radiator in for AC. I used to always run a 1 ton diesel truck radiator in my chevy beater truck - nearly twice the size as the stock V8 1/2 ton straight or six radiator -no joke.

    -
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2008
  10. my64fj40

    my64fj40

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  11. Markh

    Markh

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    What water pump are you running and how old is it? If the flow is poor it won't cool very well either. I can't imagine that a 8 blade fixed fan can't pull enough air to keep the engine cool.
    I've been running a 4 core LC radiator, Flex-a-Lite fan and a Flo-Kooler water pump since I installed the 350 in my 40 (8years ago) and I haven't had any problems. (So far) Its always at 180 unless I'm on a long hill at highway speeds.
    I also took the stock shroud and rotated it 180 degrees so it would fit the fan.

    It seems getting a V8 to cool properly in a cruiser is a black art. What works for some may not work for others.

    Good luck.
     
  12. dgangle

    dgangle total rice SILVER Star

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    John,
    Good info. This is the fan I used and pulled some serious air. Flex-a-lite 400 Series Economy Fan
    I guess saying 'flex-a-lite' is like saying Xerox or Kleenex. I had just the opposite experience of what you describe. The 19" 7-blade fan from a Suburban with a new HD Hayden clutch fan cooled WORSE than the fan in the link. That was with the CCoT 4-core OE-sized rad. I use the Sub/Hayden set up now with the larger AL rad and it cools great.

    I second you on all you said on the radiator. Your experience about the AA V8 radiator is what convinced me to go the direction of a larger rad. You were 100% correct and I think FJ_Owner's in denial and while ignoring the obvious keeps asking the same question over and over again until he gets the answer he wants. YOUR RADIATOR IS UNDERSIZED. REPLACE IT WITH SOMETHING BIGGER.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2008
  13. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    Efan Sucks

    Well I drove around town today, got up to 60 MPH. The freekin temp got to 230.

    My mech fan with the same radiator never ever got above 210. WTF?
    The Efan seems like its ripping a ton more air than the mech fan.

    I am rippin the Efan out and putting the Mech back in, for now.

    I'll re read the threads and see what radiator to upsize to.

    I am reluctant to go Aluminum, but may go that way anyway.

    Wasted day.

    Thanks,

    JB
     
  14. dgangle

    dgangle total rice SILVER Star

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    That sucks, man. I been there. It wasn't really a wasted day. You learned more about what didn't work, had no effect, made it worse, etc. You can't buy that kind of experience.

    Why are you so reluctant to go AL? I was too as I didn't want to have to refab everything including mounts, shroud and battery box in my case. I decided to just do it and never look back. I drove my Chevota yesterday in 100F heat and it never went over 190F, staying mostly at 180F.

    If you don't want AL go with and old-school copper brass. Try http://tinyurl.com/lyllj
    Search EBay for "Chevy conversion radiator jeep". The re is one for the CJ, shown or the Wrangler which is a little narrower. Both have sturdy mounting flanges on both manifolds and are sized to cool a SBC. For another $100 you can go to a custom AL that is WAY more efficient but to each their own.

    I'm really trying to help you, man but you gotta let go of that I-6 radiator.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2006
  15. numtel

    numtel

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    My situation was similar to yours before getting an aluminum radiator. Now I can drive all day on the freeway at 65 mph in 100* heat and it never gets above 200. I also have a 2000cfm pusher fan on the front and made a shroud for my mech fan.
     
  16. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    Thanks for all the input. Yes I am in denial. The amount of air the efan pulls compared to the mech is amazing. That is my mental block, why the efan works as it does. ie s***ty. The mech does not pull (in my mind) as much air as the efan. But obviously the mech works better. Always less than 210

    #1 reason I have not purchase a new rad is because I do not have a job.

    Could you please provide me the exact part number and dimensions of the rad you bought? I am not a super fabber but am able to weld and cut metal.

    Thanks for your patience, its been a learning experience.

    JB
     
  17. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    You dont need to go aluminum to work but they do look cool. My junk uses a largest 4 core I could find along with the largest AC condenser sandwiched in between the two is a trans cooler and zero cooling issues in AZ even at 115* in traffic.
    FJ40 front end.jpg
     
  18. FJ40_owner

    FJ40_owner

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    Sweet! How about a part number and dimensions?

    When the Al. Rad guys state they have "1 inch pipes" are they referring to the internal radiator tubing?

    (What motor do you have, - Intake pipes?)
     
  19. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    Thanks

    29 x 18

    Yes size on tubes on the inside of the radiator

    350 TPI stock 275hp

    The hardest part is finding hoses to work and look factory
     
  20. llih

    llih

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    I used the stock rad, shroud and a flex fan for years. I live in the Mohave desert. I used to drive up and down the Cajon pass everyday with no overheating problems. That being said, I wonder how much the placement of the Chevy with relationship to the firewall affects the heating issue? I remember way back reading something about not getting enough airflow over the v8 when it was too close to the firewall. I also question how accurate some of our temp gauges are.
     
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