AluRadiador from Amazon?!?

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More rows with the same overall dimensions is often bad. That means smaller tubes which are more likely to clog.

I wouldn't trust those electric fans, personally. If you want to convert to electric, find a suitable OEM fan. I've heard Taurus fans are good.

$369 seems expensive for a foreign-made (I'm assuming, don't see anything to the contrary) aftermarket radiator. Way back in '09 I put an eBay all aluminum $150 radiator in my Jeep and I was extremely impressed with the build quality. I'd go for a $200 eBay radiator over a $370 Amazon one with a weird fan conversion.
 

LC4LIFE

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I'd say do it. Be the first to experiment on your rig, then let us all know what does not fit, what needs to be modified and how the cooling works. Personally, I stick with known quantities for cooling on mine, OEM, Koyo, TYC and CSF.
 
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Joined
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Applegate, Oregon
I'd say do it. Be the first to experiment on your rig, then let us all know what does not fit, what needs to be modified and how the cooling works. Personally, I stick with known quantities for cooling on mine, OEM, Koyo, and CSF.
I realize youre being facetious about trying it, yet/and experimentation is what drives innovation…and perhaps further modification…
I already have a chinese bolt on turbo kit 🫶🏼🤙🏻
 
Joined
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Applegate, Oregon
More rows with the same overall dimensions is often bad. That means smaller tubes which are more likely to clog.

I wouldn't trust those electric fans, personally. If you want to convert to electric, find a suitable OEM fan. I've heard Taurus fans are good.

$369 seems expensive for a foreign-made (I'm assuming, don't see anything to the contrary) aftermarket radiator. Way back in '09 I put an eBay all aluminum $150 radiator in my Jeep and I was extremely impressed with the build quality. I'd go for a $200 eBay radiator over a $370 Amazon one with a weird fan conversion.
Yes, you are correct about more cores not cooling better, thank you. This inspired me to look up a comparison. This summit help article explains it in detail. Thanks again!
 
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austin, texas
Im no electrical guy, but I would wonder how the electrical system would handle those efans. My truck cant even power the D light on my gauge cluster.
 

inkpot

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Wow! Mr Davis probably wouldnt like to hear that. Is a larger trans cooler a good mod too?
T7hese are running in about a dozen 80s here with good results. We have installed so many that they boosted the price up to around $200. I have run mine about 5-6 years and I wheel all year long regardless of summer temps. It is also my DD.
 

inkpot

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I actually pulled the trigger on a 3 row unit…oem was three row, but this is all aluminum…should be better imo….and adding an B&M Supercooler for the trans cooler.
Amazon product

Rows don't really count. Overall thickness of core and size of internal tunes do.
 
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I actually pulled the trigger on a 3 row unit…oem was three row, but this is all aluminum…should be better imo….and adding an B&M Supercooler for the trans cooler.
Amazon product

I had a 3 row Chinese aluminum radiator when I had my stock 5.3 v8. It worked fine. I had to space out the lower brackets a little. Electric fans should give about 10hp compared to a clutch fan. Quality of the Electric fans is pretty critical. Also the quality of the fan relays or controller is also important. Electric fan operation condition is also critical. They need to not only work based on engine temperature, but also based on AC operation. The oem transmission cooler works well for my purposes. If the transmission fluid is getting hot I imagine it's more a airflow issue than a cooler size issue. I say that because I've towed a lot with the stock trans cooler. I went to Electric fans because I had difficulty getting the gm fan clutch to work how I wanted on my v8 swap
 
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I had a 3 row Chinese aluminum radiator when I had my stock 5.3 v8. It worked fine. I had to space out the lower brackets a little. Electric fans should give about 10hp compared to a clutch fan. Quality of the Electric fans is pretty critical. Also the quality of the fan relays or controller is also important. Electric fan operation condition is also critical. They need to not only work based on engine temperature, but also based on AC operation. The oem transmission cooler works well for my purposes. If the transmission fluid is getting hot I imagine it's more a airflow issue than a cooler size issue. I say that because I've towed a lot with the stock trans cooler. I went to Electric fans because I had difficulty getting the gm fan clutch to work how I wanted on my v8 swap
My intuition guided me to look into what Summit Racing has to offer for 12” fans to R&R the included fans immediately during installation…do u recommend a brand?
 
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I've got the cheap TYC 1918 and it's been cooling great. Operating temp in the summer is 185 and I pretty much never see 200 except in the most extreme situations.
 

80t0ylc

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I also run a TYC 1918 which is 2 row aluminum. I previously had a copper/bronze CSF, which is 3 row. The difference was amazing and fixed the issue that I had which was, I couldn't run the A/C when it got hot. It's been 5 yrs and was suggested, to me, by the AZ guys that @inkpot wheels with. I'm glad I listened to them. Adding the mods that most of us 80 owners do, increases the weight and stress on the engine and cooling system because it has to work harder. Same goes for running larger diameter tires. I'm guilty of both:rolleyes:. My '94's OEM radiator was a copper 3 row as was the CSF replacement when the plastic tank split on the OEM. Copper just didn't cut it for my situation. The TYC aluminum made all the difference. And it didn't break the bank and has held up well. Best for the $, IMHO.
 

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