All Over The Road

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Joined
Jan 19, 2006
Threads
9
Messages
55
Location
Portola C.A.
I've replaced the tie rod and all ends. Put new 33 12.50's on today and had it alligned. Drove home and still handles like sh**. They said the cast was only half degree off. It's a hand full to keep on the road. It's got saginaw power steering conversion. I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem, but when you turn a corner the steering wheel won't return to center. I have also adjusted the wheel bearings recently. Current cast is at 0.7 degrees (if i'm reading this correct). It has a shackle reversle kit. I belive it to be a advanced land cruiser handling? because it is a kit with 7" front towers.

thanks, jason
 
Black Dog said:
I've replaced the tie rod and all ends. Put new 33 12.50's on today and had it alligned. Drove home and still handles like sh**. They said the cast was only half degree off. It's a hand full to keep on the road. It's got saginaw power steering conversion. I don't know if this has any bearing on the problem, but when you turn a corner the steering wheel won't return to center. I have also adjusted the wheel bearings recently. Current cast is at 0.7 degrees (if i'm reading this correct). It has a shackle reversle kit. I belive it to be a advanced land cruiser handling? because it is a kit with 7" front towers.

thanks, jason
Howdy! Try adding a set of 3 degree caster shims between the springs and axle. Any good frame and alignment shop should sell them over the counter. If you are still SUA, the you want the fat end of the shim at the front of the rig. If you are SOA, the fat end to the rear of rig. John
 
inkpot said:
Howdy! Try adding a set of 3 degree caster shims between the springs and axle. Any good frame and alignment shop should sell them over the counter. If you are still SUA, the you want the fat end of the shim at the front of the rig. If you are SOA, the fat end to the rear of rig. John

Or you could go back to the stock spring hangers.

http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/Shackle.html
 
I'll try the shims, may have to order them because we live in such a small town. Once I shim, do I need to have it realigned?

Thanks John
P.S. how the hell do you post pictures
 
Last edited:
How much toe-in are you running? Larger tires like a little more toe-in. I have a AH SR, 2" lift springs SUA, Mini PS and with 31's ran 1/4" toe-in. Just switched to 33x9.50s and had no wandering problems with either. You don't need to run max tire pressure either, so you might try to play with that.

I don't think you need to realign after shims. The only real alignment is the caster and the toe-in.
Get steel shims, the brass/or aluminum squish.


GL

Ed
 
Degnol said:
How much toe-in are you running? Larger tires like a little more toe-in. I have a AH SR, 2" lift springs SUA, Mini PS and with 31's ran 1/4" toe-in. Just switched to 33x9.50s and had no wandering problems with either. You don't need to run max tire pressure either, so you might try to play with that.

I don't think you need to realign after shims. The only real alignment is the caster and the toe-in.
Get steel shims, the brass/or aluminum squish.


GL

Ed

Yup, it's in the shims. ;)
 
I just bought the shims. Have not yet installed, When a friend came over to help we noticed alot of frame flex. I think I need to weld the shackle hangers to the frame before I try any thing else. I'm to impatiant, ready to go wheeling.
 
I had a similar problem with mine after I lifted it. Flat towed fine when stock, but after 4"springs it would not return to center when flat towed behind my tow rig. I looked everywhere for answers and finally figured out that cruisers only have 1 degree positive caster from the factory. This is good for manual steering because it helps make it steer easier. Caster is what also makes it return to center. It fixed mine by adding a 2.5 degree shim and fixed the problem. Make sure you install it so it will point the pinion more toward the ground. Also don't change your toe from factory this has nothing to do with your problem. You will only wear your tires out quicker. My shims cost me about 15 bucks at the local 4x shop. Or napa probably has them. You might need longer center pins also and Check your ubolts from time to make sure they don't spit out the shims. Good luck.
 
cruisertom said:
I had a similar problem with mine after I lifted it. Flat towed fine when stock, but after 4"springs it would not return to center when flat towed behind my tow rig. I looked everywhere for answers and finally figured out that cruisers only have 1 degree positive caster from the factory. This is good for manual steering because it helps make it steer easier. Caster is what also makes it return to center. It fixed mine by adding a 2.5 degree shim and fixed the problem. Make sure you install it so it will point the pinion more toward the ground. Also don't change your toe from factory this has nothing to do with your problem. You will only wear your tires out quicker. My shims cost me about 15 bucks at the local 4x shop. Or napa probably has them. You might need longer center pins also and Check your ubolts from time to make sure they don't spit out the shims. Good luck.

So.....the only thing he has changed is tires and now he needs caster shims and you know that from the info he has posted? Wow!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

You are one smart MoFo! No questions, just answers.

Dayum



Ed;)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by inkpot
Howdy! Try adding a set of 3 degree caster shims between the springs and axle. Any good frame and alignment shop should sell them over the counter. If you are still SUA, the you want the fat end of the shim at the front of the rig. If you are SOA, the fat end to the rear of rig. John

.These instructions could be misinterpreted . you need to angle the pinion down .Your rig requires more -caster.If the caster is neutral you could experience major handling issues.The caster you are looking for is the bottom trunion bearing forward of the top one = negative caster.regardless of SOA or SUA this is the case.maybe you could post some pics of your setup so we can get a better look at the problem .
 
I just put in the shims and test drove. Worked like a frickin charm!!!! Still a little squirly, but nothing like it was without the shims

Thanks Guys, Jason
 
I just drove my rig 4 hours from home to college and while it's not too hard to keep under control, it could be a lot better. I have 4 inch lift springs and 33 in. tires, so I was thinking I might fall into the same group of folks who need caster shims. On that note, do ya'll have any pictures of these things? How big of a shim do I need? There's a 4WD shop about 5 miles from my school that I plan on checking out sometime this week, hopefully they'll have em and I can get this under control.
 
Black Dog said:
I just put in the shims and test drove. Worked like a frickin charm!!!! Still a little squirly, but nothing like it was without the shims

Thanks Guys, Jason


How many turns on your steering wheel lock to lock? And how long is your pitman arm>
 
I'll try to post a picture tonight. I used 2.5 degree shims and they seemed to work well. I,m cosidering trying a larger shim just to see if it gets even better. I also have 4" lift and 33"s. I went to summit racing in reno and got mine. The only options I had was to get 2.5 4-6 but no 3.0

Jason
 
Black Dog said:
I'll try to post a picture tonight. I used 2.5 degree shims and they seemed to work well. I,m cosidering trying a larger shim just to see if it gets even better. I also have 4" lift and 33"s. I went to summit racing in reno and got mine. The only options I had was to get 2.5 4-6 but no 3.0

Jason


I see a cut and turn in your future. After the first time you bash a rock with your pinion. I hope you don't have any rock around your area or plan on using it for mud.
 

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